RogerH

Hi Doug, I only joined the TSSC a few weeks ago at Stoneleigh so haven't got along to any meets. I'm just down the road from Fairdale - hitherbroom Rd off Coldharbour. Been in Hayes 69 years. Hayes has changed a great deal. We will be having CrossRail through here. Having a crazy effect on house prices. Roger

Hi Doug, I live in Hayes, not far from Heathrow (or West London as we call it) and the beer prices are eye watering. Going anywhere in the country is a money saving experience. Having said that our local Working Mens Club does a variety of good pints for about £3.20. They just put their prices up as there was no profit in what they were doing. Roger

Hi Mark, on your recommendation me and missus (Sue) popped along to the Churchill. It was everything and more that you stated. Excellent food. I had a smoked Haddock Souffle followed by calves liver. Sue had the risotto - wow. Not cheap by any means but far better value than an awful meal we had last night at a Toby carvery. Roger

Paint strip and clean an area for 6 inches or so around the rust so you are back to good metal. You will be surprised/shocked at what you have. Repair it properly. Roger

In the mid-2000's I bought a set of standard followers from one of the big suppliers for my 4A. Half of them would not fit in the block. Back at the shop I explained the situation. The counter chap brought out a box from the stores with about 100+ followers in - all clattering about. I measured all the followers and put them in groups of 0.0005" and took my 8. The counter chap swept them all into the box. I mentioned to him that putting them in sized bags would have been a good idea - nothing happened. Brain not engaged. Roger

Not normally. The stubby will have been there for a long time and they can become cold welded simply by contact. On my 4A back in the 90's they took over 20 ton. They went with a big bang and the press nearly took off. Roger

A good quality well focused photo is require to see the crack propagation. To me it looks as if the crack started in the small area at the 6-o-clock position and then failed rapidly across the larger area. The ridge on the 3-o-clock side has just been pulled out. If the crack moved across the large area to start with then the ridge would not be there. That VL in the above photo is well and truly dead Roger

What does he know !!! probably a great deal. The ST engineers were a clever lot indeed. I may have to investigate a change to oil. Roger

Hi Pete, thanks for that. D & J type = unknown territory Roger

Hi Jon, I have a 4A with better spaced gear ratio's (and 22% OD ratio) so 3rd and 3rd/OD compliment each other. Your 3rd and 3rd/OD (albeit another 4th) will be handy on very hilly runs (think Black Forrest etc) . 3rd gear around the hairpins then click into 3rd/OD for the short straight, then back into 3rd for next hairpin. Saves a lot of leg work. Be kind to the OD when, in particular, coming out of OD. This can be mighty rough. My method - in 4th get up to 45-50mph - leave throttle as is and engage OD. The revs will drop. All should be smooth. From 4th/OD to 4th - keep a steady throttle (do not let the revs drop) disengage OD - the revs will rise - ease off the throttle to slow down - keep it smooth. You can use the clutch at any time but why would you. This simply causes more wear due to use. OD is a blessing on long runs in particular. Enjoy the car. Roger .

To see how bad things are, have a look at the profile of the threads on the vertical link. They should be a uniform shape - both sides of the 'V' the same. When in service the bottom of the 'V' gets worn. So, the 'V' becomes a saw tooth shape. Assemble the TRunnion dry tot he VL and see how much play/wobble there is. There should not be much at all. I have a TR4A. This has a similar TRunnion to the Spit. I have always used grease for the TRunnion with no apparent excess wear As well as the JBWeld to seal the bottom of the TRunnion you can use soft solder. Roger PS - inspect the run-our of the thread on the TRunnion for corrosion pitting. There should be none. If it looks iffy consider a new VL - they do break.

Hi John, even with good gap'd rockers do not discount worn camshaft. But I would have thought it would be noisy both hot & cold Roger

Hi Folks, if in doubt of your ignition parts I would recommend buying them from Martin Jay - The Distributor Doctor http://www.distributordoctor.com/ I have no connection other than a happy customer. Quality products. Roger

Hi Delboy, here is the Moss sight - they offer three others https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/engine/oil-system/oil-filter-conversions-spin-on.html Roger

Hi Wayne, the tip is normally used for new/recon calipers as the new seals are much stiffer than OEM. Glad it sorted you out. Roger

Hi Dave, this is a tip from another forum for your symptoms. Press the brake pedal down and then jam into position with a length of wood. leave for 24 hours. Possible cause on new calipers and may develope on older ones - the caliper piston seal becomes or is too stiff. When the piston is pushed out it deforms the seal. When the pressure is release the seal pulls the piston back rather than simply releasing the pressure/contact. Doing the above may allow the seal to slowly return to its normal position with the piston that bit further out. Roger

Foxes. They will lick cows teets to get some milk. They can't milk them like we do as they have no thumbs. Roger

Now that is a head scratcher - it was Tony. Roger

No, I think the original are Tiger Just helping Roger

Hi Dave, quality oil for the right car and even the relatively cheap 'classic' stuff (Halfords etc) in the right car will give you many miles of trouble free motoring. Simply sticking another £10 or £20 note in the oil filler may simple be a waste of time. Change the oil when it is tired - 3000 to 5000 miles & new filter and stay happy. There are no miracles on the high street. Roger

Hi Pete, many thanks for that. It is odd that it is on/across the 'O' ring. This makes the 'O' ring useless. Hmmmmm. Roger

Hi Folks, here is a puzzler. A friend of mine is trying to stop his TR4A GB selector rods leaking. There are three rods and they each have an 'O' ring at the back end - supposedly to stop oil dribbling out. - ho ho ho!!! He has found that his 3rd/4th rod (the centre one) has a 1/16" dia hole drilled vertically through it coincident with the 'O; ring. The hole can be seen when in 3rd gear. Has anybody seen this before or know why a hole would be there.? Roger

...the block top surface may well have been pulled up. Which may cause future problems. Roger

Having watched Markus's lovely video of the pass reminded me of an interesting event about 4 years ago. It was a very very wet week-end in the Lakes and decided to go over Hardknot in the 4A. On the lower Boot section I spotted a Ford TRansit and large trailer ahead of me. It was stationery on a corner. I stopped about 50 yds back. The driver and pax got out - scratched heads and proceeded to unhook the trailer. At this point they were on a 1:8 slope. The trailer took off, the pax being dragged along behind, not letting go. The rear offside corner hit a drystone wall and stopped - the pax continued until he caught up with the trailer . And then he stopped with a thump. The other side of the trailer was a 200ft drop - not vertical but it wouldn;t have mattered. At this point I did something stupid. I decided to help them. They wanted to rotate the trailer 90 degrees to point towards a rough drive way into a field. I'm holding the tow bar, the loons at the back. It is now at 45 degrees. The wall is now not stopping it and I am straining to pull this trailer up a rough slightly inclined path. The two loons then appeared on by my shoulder - they had let go and i had the all the weight. I spoke to them in old english to return and push.. It would appear they were taking a short cut to an Ambleside fete with stunt motorbikes in the trailer. Because of the rain the roads were wash and the TRansit lost all grip. Utter madness, Roger

Compared to the steel splines the Rislan coating is quite soft. I suspect it works by holding the grease 'particles' within is 'rough' surface. A smooth steel on steel surface will wipe clean quite quickly. A Moly type grease would work fine on both the Rislan and plain steel (with re-application on the steel) Any decent grease should would with the Rislan - Castrol LM etc. The splines are not necessarily a high pressure contact surface as there is quite a bit of surface area.