RogerH

At the Pilot Pub in Dungeness I had 'mushy' peas with the fish and it also glows in the dark. Roger

The sad stupidity that Beeching carried has not actually been improved in any Gov't department. Short sighted jobs worths doing what the master ordered. Roger

Sadly Not running at the moment Roger

Hi Folks, I ended up in Dungeness. The lighthouse and the Nuclear power station are still there.

Triumph drawings missing - Pah After the last Concorde was built the manufacturing drawings were of little use. In the late 70's early 80's they were sold for a song to an enthusiast. Not exactly sure what and how many but it was a significant amount of specialist information. Still it wasn't needed anymore. Until !!!! BA started to lose its rudders oops!! How do you make new rudders with no drawings. They had to hire the drawings back for 'not' a song. Somebody became quite wealthy overnight. Roger

You can't rub the chrome off as you will get an undulating surface that will need professional polishing before re-plating. The corrosion pits need to be pickled clean (acid), Then filled with Copper and polished back. Then Copper plated & Polished. Then Nickel plated and polished and finally Chrome. Why not send them to the UK for Chrome plating. Roger

Hi John, on the smaller rivnuts M3 & M4 Ali pull them up until you feel it go tight. Then waggle the pliers. If it is in tight there will be no movement. If you feel any slack then keep squeezing. Steel and Stainless steel should not pull through. The biggest problem is trying to pull down M6 stainless. Power pliers are required. Roger

Those women type people are very cunning. Roger

On a composite head gasket the ability of the Copper to compress would be a very minor issue indeed. The sandwich filling takes up all of the compression when torquing. Perhaps it becomes more relevant if it was a solid copper gasket. But then steel gaskets have no compression available. The washers under the stud nuts are important - they are special and need to be hard. Roger

Hi Chris, in my little world the 'plug' weld is the preferred alternative. Much more control over what is going on. The only issue with 'plug' welds is to ensure that the top surface hole has a big enough diameter. The usual supplied hole punch/Joggler has a 3/16" punch which is way too small. You will often get NO penetraion. 1/4" (6mm) is better but iffy. 5/16" works every time. Excellent study and pictures that you have posted. Roger

Hi Kevin, for one of my jobs I needed to weld an end plate onto a tube (mild steel) I got crafty. I fitted the tube (only 2" long) into a small 4 jaw chuck, rigged up the torch in a set position and turned the chuck with string and gears. After one rotation, job done. It was a revelation. Doing it by hand would have me tearing my hair out As mentioned above I shall spend a week this summer doing some serious practice. Roger

Have a look on the R-tech website. They have tutorials for all the metals/thicknesses/and configuration. Getting a decent weld pool is one thing trying to insert the filler rod into it is another. I have had some good success joining steel and Aluminium but without the filler rod. This summer I will have another weeks teach-in and see if I can improve on using the filler rod. It may be easier to practice on slightly thicker sheet than the normal car thickness Perhaps 2mm Roger

Hi John, Like Clive I also use Vehicle & Wiring Products. TRy and make a list of what you need for now and possibly down the road as P&P is expensive for a small item. https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-48-cables/c-198-single-core-pvc-thin-wall-cable/p-973-16-5-amp-1mm-sq-32-0-20 11amp is their smallest and comes in solid colours 16amp comes in solid and dual colours RS Comps do much thinner cables Roger

...............that works................. Roger

Found it !!! Using Word. Lay down a dashed line in one colour (eg Red) then lay another dashed line close to the first in the second colour (eg green) Then lay one line on top of the other (spaced accordingly) - ed/Green line Roger

Hi Folks, does anybody know of a cheap/free drawing package that does dual coloured dashed lines. Roger

Hi Dave, sitting quietly for so long ( 2 weeks) may allow the petrol to drain away from the carbs or evaporate. When you crank it over it is trying to start but with not enough (initially) fuel so the plugs get wet but unable to burn off the excess fuel. Make sure the battery is well charged, I would NOT put WD40 inside the dizzy - it isn't designed to dry out the cap but it will leave a residue that may cause tracking/arcing Put the WD40 in the dustbin and let the binmen take it away. Roger

Hi Roger, I have one of Marco's (Z320 on the TRR Forum) for my 4A. In these days of liquid gold in the fuel tank it is a nice gadget to have. Roger

If it is oil coming down the valve guide then there is a side issue. The oil will mix with the petrol intake and lower the RON. So if you are using 95 then it may be much lower, 93 perhaps, and bring on pinking. Also TRy using a hotter spark plug to help keep the plugs clean. Roger

Hi Jeff, I suspect my 'answer' is not the 'the' answer. #4 is usually the hottest pot - shielded from the rad fan by the other pots. #4 is also nearest to the rocker oil feed. There may be more oil escaping the rocker assembly and then getting into the inlet valve guide. #3, 2, 1 is getting less and less oil to them. Roger

Hi Paul, NOS capacitor (Condensor) is not always the way to go.. Capacitors like to be used regularly. Another annoying area-On my TR4A 25D dizzy the flexible wire inside that joints the outside world to the points. had become unattached to its tag. The solder had peeled off the tag.It look good but was not. It took me three r fours days travelling across Scotland before I found it. The wire on item 3. Roger

The seam (butt) weld is a good way to go. I think I would have made the cut-out as a circle. If the corners are not welded properly they may start cracking. Roger

It looks like a Gloria. Beautiful car. Roger

When changing electrical components do one at a time and make sure it works. Then the next one etc etc. When buying parts as spares. Fit the new one and see that ot works. Put the old one in the spares box - you know it will work. Roger

+++++1 Top quality from Martin Jay the 'Dizzy Doc' Roger