RogerH

Hi Peter, I've heard good reports from these people http://www.testransmissions.co.uk/tes-transmissions-manual-2008.html I will be giving them my TR4A diff at the end of Autumn. Roger

TRiumph normally put it between the card and the handle escutcheon. Other wise the escutcheon will wear a mark into the door card Vinyl. Spring big diameter on the card That is the case for all TR4/4A/5/6. Roger

Hi Alastair, very silly question but it has happened (not to me) - did you blank off the intake holes in the manifold when you removed the carbs - if so have you taken it out. Also have you tried any form of 'Cold Start' squirts Roger

I don't think the mains cable is long enough Roger

Where about's do you live. If local to West London LHR airport I could weld it for you. Roger

Hi Gav, If the JBWeld is under 'constant ' movement I don;t give it much hope. It needs welding and cutting back Roger

I believe the FBHVC conducted trials when 4 star was being phased out and they found that VSR was a reality but!!! they used a quite an old style engine (Morris Minor typwe thing) and they thrashed it to death. For normal everyday driving/touring VSR may never happen. Roger

Be careful if you buy a pre-70's car radio (especially Motorola & Radiomobile) as the transistors in the tuner section (AF117) are infamous for simply giving up the ghost due to internal clag in their little canisters. There is a work round for them - the duff AF117 can be re-vitalised but it may be temporary. Or you could swap them out and use AF127 (these do not suffer the clag) Roger

If you can confirm the diameter of the threaded part of the switch then I believe the thread size will follow suit. I have some spares of the TR cars. Otherwise I can make you one in Ali or brass Or can you see your switch on Moss or Rimmer and forward the part number - that may help. Roger

Hi Folks, Just recently I have come across the very thin 4" plasma discs. They cut through 1mm mild steel as if it wasn't there. Roger

Hi Folks, I bought a corded Black&Decker back in the early 90's for my 4A rebuild - nice and small with 100mm(4" discs) can get in most places. However having small discs they wear out quickly. I would give it 'Foive' Roger

Hi Chris, the SS isn;t twice a hard as MS but twice as tough and when it gets hot it then gets hard. I assume your holes are 32mm diameter - you need a Q max cutter - example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363268005504?hash=item549475de80:g:L4cAAOSwVDlgCPaI This will eat the 1mm SS as it does not produce heat When you drill the hole for the bolt start with 3mm drill and go up in 2 or 3 stages + lubricant Roger

They did three or four variations - Petrol, Diesel, TVO............................ https://www.acornservicestractorparts.com/acatalog/Ferguson_T20_tractor_parts.html More good stuff here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferguson_TE20 Roger

Hi Peter, i would advise that you continue to use the original solenoid to feed the HT starter. The original solenoid takes about 1 or 2 amps and is wired through the ignition switch. The switch can easily handle this. The HT Starter dedicated solenoid can take a serious amount of current - possibly in the order of 20amps. (I haven't got the data sheet with me at the mo). Found it possibly 40amps http://www.wosperformance.co.uk/products/starter-motors/starter-performance/1-4kw-denso-performance/ The ignition switch will not like this amount of current whizzing through it. Use the original solenoid to supply 12V @ big amps direct to the HT starter on its 1/4" contact. Link the HT Starter solenoid also to this 1/4" stud. Do A Pete did and move the original solenoid to somewhere sensible. Roger

When pop riveting on or close to paint work wrap your hand around the head of the riveter to stop the reactions. Roger

The string pulls on one side and releases on the other. In reverse the other string pulls and the previous puller releases. Sorry for the cluttered pic. Roger

I got my rotary table idea from a workshop rotary table so it is not new, just cheap. I did see a video clip of a chap using a lathe on a very slow speed to do the same. My lathe takes forever to change speeds. As for the spanner I'm sure it has already been done. But they are fun to use. Roger

Seeing a diff flange tool earlier in this thread reminded me of the lever I knocked up to hold the spoked wheel adapters It holds onto the studs/nuts in rder to tighten/loosen what's ;eft I also made , over Christmas, a rotary table in rder to TIG weld an end plate on a tube This used a useless redundant machine vice, A small (4") 4 jaw chuck, a length of 12mm studding and some string. The TIG gun is a fixed positioned and when the foot pedal is pressed I start winding for 360' All rather Heath Robinson but it works Roger

Don't forget TRacy Tools - they do so very nice stock https://www.tracytools.com/ Roger

Hi M, that looks quite neat, high end of the 'good' range £wise. Check the boot lower flange for rust and bodge repair. Bottoms of all wings. If there are no wheel arch liners check tops of all wings Look at the floor - lift the carpets. It still has a wide fan belt - as it got an alternator? The wiper motor is the later TR6 14W - this is actually a good mod - but they could have put the blades in the correct position. The Weber's look tasty but not economical on MPG. The engine breathing system has been changed - does the pipe from the rocker cover go to a catch tank. If not already done then a TR4 snorkel needs fitting just below the mechanical petrol ump. Does the Rad overflow go into a catch bottle to be drawn back into the system - special rad cap required. There will be a BIG TR week-end gathering at Malvern in mid August TRR/TSSC/MG joint venture. There will be cars for sale to see and buy. Roger

This is my special drill it has right hand, left hand and straight flutes in one Don't buy cheap drills. Roger

Helicoil's work well - worth having them handy. Rivnuts for thinner areas = UNF are available Weld the hole and re-tap - emergency work Stainless fasteners - becareful. Do not use in high stress areas (suspension etc) If you go metric, consider painting the head of the fastener red so that you know what is there. Roger

Hi Paul Rimmers show hub nuts https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-510618A I know nothing about them. Roger

Hi Michael, the TR4 is quite good rust wise compared to the 4A. The simple chassis is less prone to rust but you still need to check it out - big hammer and plenty of knocking. The sills can and do go rusty. They are easy enough to repair yourself if ever need changing/repairing (assuming you are able to) The areas behind the front and rear wings can have serious. The bottoms of the front and rear wings are also prone to serious rust. Don;t use Hammerite. Check under the carpets for floor rust. Any swollen seams will be caused by rust If there are no wheel arch liners then check up inside all the wings. If you buy the car then install the liners The steering column rubber UJ bolts have not been wire locked The battery clamp attachment bolts are too long Check the bottom edge of the boot lid. If you feel any roughness then this is the start of serious rust. If there is no rust look about 4" above the bottom lip for a lap joint suggesting that it has been repaired. Otherwise looks a nice clean car. Roger

Take the head off and do it properly. It will give satisfaction that that it is out of the way. Roger