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Dolomitejohn

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Everything posted by Dolomitejohn

  1. I don't think it's got a nut on the pully. But it's def a Stan part.
  2. Hi clive Was it you guys driving the grossglockner in Austria? .my 2500 is a convert 1972 2000 auto to 2500 s. Spec. Ride height looks lowish but it does have the front roll bar. Virtually no rust and only one weld repair. Which club organised the Europe drive? Does it happen every year? Cheers Clive. John
  3. Hi doug It was a hard decision but it had to be done. Has released some cash so I can fix the dolomite sprint and will enable me to take the family out in classic style more often. A young lad (23) is the new owner and he is going to continue to improve the gt6 with his dad going forward. I have plans for the 2500 to make it a bit more sporty. Already has tubular manifold and sports exhaust. At some point I want to drive the grossglockner mountain in Austria. The 2500 will be perfect for this. What do you think about my water pump reconditioning idea? Can it be done? John
  4. Hi all. Is it possible or worth keeping a Stanpart waterpump? It's leaks badly. Was going to throw it out but thought it might be possible to recondition it. Any thoughts? Also want to thank all who have helped me with the gt6 and its re commissioning. Its been an adventure and I have really enjoyed it. I have driven over 600 miles and had such fun. Not bad for a car that's been off the road for 20 years... On Saturday it will be sold to its new owner who is going to take it to the next level and maybe even fully restore the bodywork. I will then be buying my 2500 mk2 saloon for more fun. Thanks again. John
  5. So Pete, so are you saying a triumph 2000 pre engaged (piggy back solenoid) starter will physically fit the Gt6? (I can deal with wiring)? I don't have any spare dol 1500 motors but do have a sprint one and the possibility to buy a 2000 one. Thanks. John
  6. That's exactly what does. Did in the petrol station yesterday after queuing for 5 mins with engine off. But didn't do it when stop for 1 minute to open garage door. So must be heat soak related starter miter issue. Glad mines not the only one. Cheers John
  7. Hi pete. Actually it's a bendix. Was getting confused. (senior moment) Are there preengaged motors that fit gt6? I have a couple somewhere.. Dolomite maybe?
  8. Hi pete. It's not a bendix motor but has no box or solenoid attached. Just a round motor with small gear at end. I removed the high torque that cam with car as it sounds dreadful. Not in keeping with cars era etc. I can always refit it, but was just wondering why when hot the lucas unit does not like to turn. Cheers John
  9. Hi all. Been using the gt6 a bit and have on a couple of occasions found the starter reluctant to turn the engine over after a long run. The starter kinda turns half a turn, stops and the turns again and presto she fires up. It's almost like the compression is too high or the motor is weak. But why only a hot issue? From cold the starter turns the engine over well for considerable time. Has a reasonable battery, new solenoid. Its a standard starter motor. Thanks all. John
  10. Yes that's what I thought. I tightened the chassis to body bolt in the boot and masivly reduced the knock sound. So guess it needs new bushes all round. Hardly supprising I guess. Noticed today the shocks have girling on them. Must be old...... Got a list as long as the country of jobs to do....
  11. My uv joints def have slack. I can see it. The clonk can physically be felt through the body work! If I hold my hand on the wheel arch at top centre. Could it be knackered chassis to body mount / bushes? John
  12. Hi all. Just looking for some potential direction. My gt6 has some vibrations and noises from the rear. Vibration kick in at about 50 mph. I am sure there is a noisy wheelbearing also. I do know there is some slop on the uv joints. However there is a sharp knock noise that sounds like its from the rear left wing. With car stationary pressing up and down on the wing results in no noise. However if I push the rear left wing to the right it knocks once. Push again and nothing. Push the right hand wing to the left and I get the one knock from the left side. Totally repeatable. Any ideas before I get under the car? Cheers all. John
  13. Hi Clive. Thanks. I have only just fitted the tunnel and h frame along with new seal, reflective sound insulation and new dash parcel shelves and lower vents. Arghhhh Not sure I want to cut holes in my nice new plastic tunnel...... Oh well.... A nice job for the weekend... John
  14. Not sure I have an angled drive. It does not have overdrive (sadly). Does that make job possible from below? John
  15. Hi doug and all. Just removed Spedo cable from rear of speedo. Pulled the inner cable out and hey presto its snapped at gearbox end. Does the tunnel have to come out to access the cable at gearbox end or is it accessible from under the car? Cheers all. John
  16. Hi all Couple of questions you may be able to help with. Spedo just stopped working. I guess cable or drive at g box end. Which is most likely? And vibrations from rear end. Guess uv joints. Easy to change? Thanks all. John
  17. Hi Chris I did sort of manage to plumb it all in. The Y pieces are supposed to be fitted to something by small brackets and although I had these brackets I could not work out where they were fitted to. So both Y pieces are "floating" held in place by the hoses and the card parcel shelf's. The Left hand side I think the Y piece is sandwhiched between the tunnel and the card shelf. (I will need to take another look). The RHS is sandwhiched either between the steering column or clutch pedal and the card shelf / tunnel. I spent so long trying to get these to fit I am surprised I can;t remember. (I will take a look for you when I am next in the garage). What I do know is that the single inputs to the Y pieces both connect to the base of the heater box. With the Y pieces in a vertical orientation, the upper hole feeds the dash vent and the lower feeds the lower vents. The lower vents are fitted to the parcel shelf knee pad (soft strip that runs across the width of the 2 shelfs). These are held in place by 2 brackets. 1 bracket is a hoop which goes around the vent and the 2nd is a small bracket that connects the hoop bracket to the 2 holes in the shelf knee pad. I was missing a hoop bracket and corrseponding shelf bracket on the LHS, so I made one from "Mechano" (Radio strip from Halfords) and a MFI metal shelf bracket. Seems to work. Just needs painting black. I will take a look at the Y piece positions next time in the garage. (Tonight or tomorrow I am sure). Hope this helps. John
  18. Hi all. Thought I would update you on the misfire saga of my mk3 gt6. After all the advice a few weeks ago, I removed the temp compensators and found them just open at cold. So I fully tightened the nut and forced them shut. Next I removed the points (made in England) and removed the condensor (had delco stamped on it).. Fitted new parts from td fitchet and reset ignition timing statically. Interestingly the screw slot in the new points and to some extent the old points was not long enough to get the correct points gap of 14 - 16 thou. Had to file the hole out. Anyway the result is a gt6 with no misfire. I also fitted a standard exhaust instead of the wheel barrow one. I can now hear the engine and everything else..... Clonking rear suspension and strange noise from front of engine. But I can now move on and fix these and enjoy the car a bit. Happy days.. John
  19. Hi pete. Managed to remove the temp compensators today. Both just off closed at cold temp. Are you saying I should tighten the nut until the valve is closed hard and continue tightening until the nut bottoms out? If I do this will I be running rich at idle when hot? It does make sense. Change from 3 ohm coil which misfire at low rpm to 2 ohm coil which misfire at higher rpm (weaker spark with 3 ohm coil). If these compensators are weakening off too much......... Although the fueling could be generally too weak I guess....? John
  20. Hi all Would the carb temp compensator be a possible cause? It let's air into the bridge when hot? Is there a repair kit for these or can they blocked off? Cheers. John
  21. I don't know the dizzy manufacturer. How can I tell or can you tell me from the photo I posted? Also I don't have a dwell meter. So an only go by points gap. John
  22. Hi pete. Normal hot. Not fry egg hot. Yes 1.9 / 2 ohms was disconnected. I will replace the coil, fit new points, new condensor, check valve clearances and purchase a new strobe (old one packed up) to confirm ignition advance is working. I might stretch to new rotor arm, csp and leads. Where do you get this red rotor arm from? Going to have a week away as of Sunday so I will go quiet for a while. Will update when I get back and have had time to investigate further. Cheers. John
  23. Hi all Just measured the voltage across the coil. Coil resistance at cold is 1.9 _- 2.0 ohms. With ignition on the voltage across coil is 5.68 volts rising slowly as the coil warms. The battery voltage is 12.25. Soni have a balast system but is coil resistance too high? John
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