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Colin

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Posts posted by Colin

  1. Wipac halogen headlamps

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Hi guys,

    I know I should really be doing the diagnosis work you've all kindly spoken about!

    I've ordered a replacement (thanks Matthew, for your offer). 

    Thanks for all reminders as to what the 2 position switch actually does, too! You'd think I'd know, wouldn't you??!!

    Gonna fit it first and then see where I am with things - After 50 years, it could probably benefit from a new switch mechanism!! 

    Will keep advised! Just hoping it's nothing I did when fitting Club hazard switch 😉🤣

    Best,

    C.

  4. Wipac halogen headlamps

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Hi All,

    Been poking around to see why I have side, but no headlights dip or full.

     
    I renewed a blown sidelight bulb - both now working.
     
    Can’t find any loose/broken wiring.
     
    Had a look for any loose/disconnected under-dash wiring from the sidelight/main beam/dipped steering column stalk. Nothing untoward there.
     
    As you all know the dash light switch is a two-position switch; 
     
    - First pull position, sidelights only; 
     
     - Second position, dipped or main beam (dependent upon stalk position).
     
    When you consider it's the only moving part of the whole circuit and this dash switch has pulled out and pushed in countless times (50 years old), I am wondering (even though I squirted WD40 along the switch shaft into the mechanism), if there’s wear and tear within. It’s quite slack in its two-position movement tbh.
     
    But still no headlights on, full or dip, at any setting. Only sides.
     
    I wonder though . . . here, might be a further clue:-
     
    when the dash light switch is pulled out to the second position for full-on headlights (dipped or main beam, stalk dependent), I note the full beam, ‘jewel’ light indicator within and part of the speedo/mileometer unit is on all the time, whether the column stalk is set to main OR dip.
     
    When functioning correctly, I normally only see that blue jewel light on at main beam and it should extinguish the next stalk-down position at dip.
     
    I do not need ignition on to operate side/headlights as you all know.
     
    Is the dash jewel light telling me there’s a dash switch fault??
     
    Thoughts appreciated.
     
    Regards,
    Colin

  5. Wipac halogen headlamps

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Hi Gents,

    Many thanks for those advices; Sorry for tardy reply - I thought I had asked for notifications of replies, but didn't see any!

    I think they stopped working together - suggesting a feed cabling issue.

    I shall be looking at the whole lot from the stalk down (yes- a 1970 1147 - 3 position lever stalk - sides/main/dipped ((or similar order)) ).

    I was under the dash when installing the hazards - might have disturbed summat . . . 

    Had a quick look at the dash lights-on switch rear, under the dash, the other day. All looks intact. The column stalk feels positive and with no change to normal.

    But my gut tells me there is/are some poor original wiring connections at front of bonnet - I think it has been re-connected and tucked up several times over over its 50 years!

    ATM, it's all shrouded in still-sticky under-bonnet stone chip coating with insulation tape under and round the cabling. I feel there may be a few 'choc' block connectors involved, too!

    I will attempt some investigation soon and report back.

  6. Wipac halogen headlamps

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Hi Chaps,

    As you all know I'm v. dim -  a bit like my sealed beam headlight units which have, in tandem, decided to pack up.

    Haven't driven at night or evening, so their only use has been to 'flash' people on in narrow road situations.

    The units don't appear blackened ('blown, burnt out') and I haven't fiddled with the wiring, except for installing the hazard switch (still all good).

    Sidelights operate, although one bulb had also blown (hope not a red herring).

    Might it be that by 'flashing' folk, I've surged the lighting, specifically headlights dipped or full beam - or maybe one blew and surged the other to blow, too??

    I would, anyway, like to upgrade them at some point, but I read in here that Club Wipac halogens require relays and I have no idea what they're all about or how to go about it.

    Cheers for any thoughts.

    Best,

    Colin (Herne Bay)

  8. New Dash Indicator Green 'Jewel' Lens - Teenie Weenie Silly Modification Detail - But it Works! Hope This Helps!

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Hi folks,

    Probably many of you good folk have bought, as I did, a replacement green indicator jewel lens - the edges of mine had crumbled away.

    Pretty much standard from anywhere you buy one.

    BUT:- I couldn't see the light indicator operating in broad daylight - the depth of colour of the lens was preventing anything the weenie 2.2W bulb might've been showing.

    I made two moves:- 

    1) I bought the LED bulb from the Club shop and, more importantly;

    2) I removed the jewel lens. Carefully and accurately drilled down the centre length of the threaded rear side, stopping short of the cockpit-visible dome. To a width of about 2.5 mm, which didn't compromise the structural integrity of the lens.

    Refitted & bingo! The indicator light became very visible. OK, only tested in the garage, but I know from the previous set-up that this permission of light now conducted down the lens barrel will now show up for me even in bright daylight.

    Just thought I'd share - 'cos it does make a difference to be able to see it (especially if, maybe, your self-cancelling springs are a bit weak etc..).

    Best,

    C.

    • Like 1

  10. Brake Pedal - Switch

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    I will say now:- I understand this switch is a plunger operated switch.

    Now, as is my way, I've butchered the old Delco (poss original?) switch (pics).

    I cannot, for the life of me, having pushed what should in theory be either end of the plunger, move any part of it! 

    And therefore, not understand how this switch until recently, actually worked!! 

    Additionally, I cannot report to have found any of what might be considered to be the 'operating' end of said (in my case alleged) plunger in the footwell, broken off, without me realising what it had been part of! 

    Pics follow.

    Thoughts/comments appreciated!! 

    20220714_161700.jpg

    20220714_161640.jpg

  15. Timing with (Gunson) Tachostrobe

    in Engine

    Posted

    Static (or with strobe) setting to manual data demands BTDC white marked dot in c'shaft pulley (I replicate on pulley flange top).

    I could then mark with the oldskool degree chart 15 BTDC - in yellow maybe.

    When changed to elec ign, could I confirm 15 degs BTDC with zenon strobe?

    I feel I'm playing Devil's advocate here & should stick to static timing methods (gunson points/volt meter or 12V bulb) 

  18. Timing with (Gunson) Tachostrobe

    in Engine

    Posted

    I guess I've raised this as I aim to change to elec ign (have kit - just don't understand it all well enough yet!) and thought; if the timing's right on points setting, a straightforward don't-move-a-thing as far as the dizzy is concerned should be alright.

    Then I saw retard the timing thing, if using unleaded.

    Do I need retarding?!? 🤣

  21. Timing with (Gunson) Tachostrobe

    in Engine

    Posted

    Team:- 

    For years I've owned - but never used - a Gunson's Tachostrobe. Always looked a bit of a faff really, when, as an every day use car, I'd previously have had to get things up and running same day. So I timed the old girl manually.

    I recently checked the timing (for one reason & another) again, manually - thinking once all seems confirmed as well, I might use the Zenon Tachostrobe which I never have previously.

    I thought I'd Internet/YouTube the thing first.

    Whilst I haven't yet used it - I came across the info attached below . . . which was news to me.

    "Converting an early model of engine to run on UNLEADED PETROL entails RETARDING the
    ignition timing to a new setting recommended by the vehicle manufacturer."     (source - a Gunson leaflet).

    My car has a Kipping unleaded head. Has had for years.

    It is a high compression 1147cc engine. The recommended timing is given a 15 degs BTDC. And I've always kept it at that.

    Never noticed any particular problems at that setting; I have never changed the timing to accommodate unleaded fuel, let alone now even more Methanol is part of the fuel mix at the pumps.

    In this advice it was recommended one contacts the manufacturer for revised timing settings under unleaded fuel use - see pic. (let alone, as I mentioned, extra Methanol as 'standard'.

    Does anyone know; 

    a) how accurate such an opinion is about the use of unleaded?

    b) what the correct retardation should therefore be (I contacted a medium but couldn't get through to Triumph)?

    c) if and how today's methanol percentages might further change said timing - further retardation, or has Methanol no further effect to the existing situation?

    960594832_Screenshot2022-07-14at13_15_40.thumb.png.f49d1bd07c454d11a929d224717edb5b.png

    Best,

    C.

     

  23. Brake Pedal - Switch

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    PL - indeed it was secured by a large steel nut - I thought even by my own standards somewhat over engineered but now I can see why!

    Seems Triumph liked this kind of plunger switch - after all, the courtesy lamp, door switches are just the same on a smaller scale, aren't they!

    Best,

    C.

  24. Brake Pedal - Switch

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Hi Badwolf,

    I honestly did a search before I launched my new thread! No resukt.

    Yep - all the wording was very confusing in some of those threads but the other Colin came to the same conclusion I did.

    My confusion was there has been no semblance of moving part in the old one (in that photo I posted).

    But it couldn't be anything else other than plunger extending and making the circuit whilst the pedal is depressed, once thought about (and others looked at online!!).

    Thanks a lot! 😉

    C.

  25. Brake Pedal - Switch

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Thanks Badwolf!

    I have ordered one of the Club's - all metal, apparantly.

    Because my original has nothing in the way of moving parts, I couldn't figure how it operated. I think thd plunger is either completely stuck in, or part has snapped off.

    When the club replacement comes, I'll disect the old one!

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