Colin
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Posts posted by Colin
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Hello Team!
Here I go again;
I've been playing today. I discovered, following one electrical red herring that seemed to have summat to do with the hazard switch I'd fitted recently, that my brake lights weren't operating. The red herring did kind of relate to the brake light circuit initially, but on measuring volts in and zero volts out of the brake pedal switch, decided this was the culprit and have ordered a new one through the club.
The original (or at least the one I took out) was Delco. All plastic. And it sits in FRONT of the brake pedal. It has no moving parts. I expected to see a plunger that would meet with the welded square pad on the brake pedal and cut the current to the brake lights in an arse-about-face type opposite of the conventional switch ( push for 'on' etc..).
So . . . how did it work?? No moving parts; long thread, wider body (don't know why) - looks as if it may have been filled with fluid - but I can't actually imagine that. Club accessory book makes it look as if the new, lauded all-metal switch has some type of plunger.
What's the real design of this switch, folks??
Best,
Colin.
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I havd to say, that as soon as the 'lid' was off, it was very tempting to take it to soft-top status!! 😉🙂
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That's great, Colin - thanks for that confirmatory info! Grateful.
Best,
C.
P.S. now with hazard warning lights operational!
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Hi Chaps,
Idle query!
I recently noted after renovation that the two vertical rear screen chrome strips were incorrectly reinserted and I have swopped them back over (pic). You will probably know how you can tell this, by the 'tide' mark where the upright fits into the rear screen chrome corner trim units.
So, having swopped them over, I note now that the very bottom of the upright, 'flows' over the horizontal bottom rubber and central 'chrome' finisher.
But my question is; how were these two merging elements finished from manufacture?
I could, for example, slice the chrome finisher at the point where the upright comes down - this upright looks as if it could push further on its seam and then would be tight against the horizontal bottom screen rubber.
I simply can't recall how it was prior to renovation and as this has been a greater - and second - renovation than its first minor 'go-over' and not being the original owner, I don't know how factory would have finished this off!
All thoughts welcome!
Best,
Colin
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Chaps - I forgot to select 'follow this thread', so have only just seen everyone else's contribs.
Very happy to go through it stage by stage if anyone is having difficulty . . ??
I posted a vid of them working. Hope you saw them & the switch.
Best,
C.
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Hi Paul H.
Apologies for tardy reply.
I completed the task this week with the remote help and advice from my Bro' who understands such things, many photos being exchanged etc.!
I was rather querulous that the fuse fitted was a 250V 30 amp. I blew it, as it happens but have replaced with a Halfords 25 Amp (but presumably NOT 250V rated). The difference is that the flashing is speedier, which I actually think is better - thought it quite slow with its original fuse.
Of course, I had to make up various cables to run across the internal bulkhead routed through the main loom on the passenger side, through the same grommet to meet the permanent starter solonoid live feed switch wire and to the flasher unit etc.. Thus making the claim that it was possible just to plug into the existing wiring loom a bit of a falsehood. Especially as I required two double bullet connectors - one for each of the right and left side indicators and there was only one in the kit.
The only thing different from the given instructions was the ignition to flasher feed was a double white pair, not green as mooted.
I sited it to the driver's side of the radio console. I used the steering column upper clamp for the earth cable.
Thanks for your contribution!
Best,
Colin
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Good point, Pete! Err on the side of caution . . . 😊
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Darn; looks like th part I just ordered is NSP one end and BSP the other!! Oh well . . .
At this rate, and, taking warnings on-board, I can see me ordering a Club hose complete!
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Pete Lewis - yes, it is! I was thinking of bolstering that push fit with an electrical tie at appropriate junctures (the flexible pipe also seems to have its own push fit connection half way down! Obviously if I leccy tie that, it'd just crush the piping!
Unkel Kunkel:- I have just ordered a BSP version for a couple of quid and will advise the fit differences I detect between NSP & BSP.
It's all a bit of a learning curve, these connections.
Continued thanks, guys.
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Just to 'close' this thing off (fitting & correct operation aside), here is the double-ended connector (1/8 NSP) I've been banging on about. I have had to use the nickel plated, brass spacer (I'm glad I ordered), so that the solid pipe to flexible makes a tight seal in its nut. I'll test in the engine bay first - not sure if I'll use any PTFE tape at any of the joints. And, I'll deffo run it via a stout rubber grommet and find a blanking plug tocarry, should anything untoward happen in the future.
PS:- I do not need to use the copper eashers shown!!
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Very kind offer!
Mine came from London - maybe I pointed to the wrong link?!?
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Apology up-front:- am not a fan of scrolling through previous posts! 🙄
I have read and re-read the 'instructions' which came with this Hazard Warning switch unit.
I am capable of following directions, if given clearly. I have asked the Club if they have anyone who can give some pictorial instructions as an alternative to the thin, written sheet, especially for those not electrically minded (ME! Ironically and frustratingly, my Dad was an ace electrician!)
I am none the wiser as to how to and where to connect the wiring which I'd like to get working as opposed to looking at it on the bench!
I think I can use a spare connector on the starter solenoid for a 'live feed', but as for the rest of it - PLUS & BUT:- that connector would require my running a new wire across the car, the solenoid being n/s and I wish to place the unit driver's side.
I can imagine many Club members have undertaken this useful addition (and probably done this in any number of manners) - so:- can anyone walk me through it for my Herald? Other than having an Alternator fitted, the car's wiring is about as original as it gets.
Cheers, m'Dears.
C.
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Thanks Pete,
Still no arrival of part I've ordered . . . keep you all posted.
C.
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Coda:- bought from the suggested internet link company.
28" of stiff plastic backing with rubbers crammed into a rectangular box, so stiff plastic backing (which I needed) were snapped in half! Rubbers salvageable. Suggested the company uses suitable carton/tube. Got snotty reply. Should have expected it I think! 🥴
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Thanks for the page number, Pete L.
Will invest of the part on order is incorrect!
My catalogue is tucked away in the back of a cupboard. Keep forgetting it exists!
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Unkel - I've ordered NSP (I think).
Will let you all know if it's correct . . . (as in, if it fits!)
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Thanks Pete,
Shan't have that in anything I've ordered - if it arrives today!! Hope not having it won't cause any probs . . .
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I did not know that, Pete! Thanks!!
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Suspect the Amazon ordered item won't be reduced with a small hole - but I don't care!
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for all help.
Have ordered one male-to-male 1/8 NPT adaptor from Amazon.
Will see tomoz if it is what I need!!
Best,
C.
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Thanks chaps.
All good suggestions!
Non-Member, if by "the feed to the gauge is usually not", you mean the nut right on the back of the gauge, certainly mine is not - it is much smaller.
Cheers All.
Now - how to find such a union . . . 🤔
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Should be the same/all through the varying joints required, I'd have thought . . .
Not in this case!
Brake Pedal - Switch
in Electrical System
Posted
Think by looking online I've answered my own question - they all seem to be plunger-driven.
Mine must have its plunger jammed in . . . P'raps I can fiddle with it . . . 😉
Best,
C.