Colin

Thanks Pete! Yes, getting the wife involved could prove quite lively!!

Chaps - thanks for that info re Dg valves - very useful! PETE:- in your missive about the way you run the car up to temperature (the soda crystal flush method), you said also leave the 'stat housing open. Re my recent rad off, reverse flush experience, once back on and refilled (leaving rad cap off to assess water/antifreeze levels), the whole engine bay got properly soaked in pretty damn hot fluid at the point the 'stat must have opened - the rad burping and belching out of its cap opening. Will this not be exacerbated by my also opening the 'stat housing? I can see it's advantage - getting the cleaner through that orifice as well - but I'm concerned about the collateral soaking in hot soda crystal water!! What's your experience/tip for minimising this?? Cheers, Colin (the other one).

Morning Chris. Many thanks and the advice sounds completely sensible. Those questions I raised above I know I will come to answer myself as I do the job (probably - but don't let that stop anyone pitching in bvkveforehand!). I've never fiddled with the heater, valve or matrix before . . . (never really had any heat out of it before either!), which was tricky when she became our only (daily) vehicle whilst living in Burgundy, where Winter dropped to -17C sometimes and my daughter needed to be driven to the school bus pick-up point for 07.00 in the morning!! Will report findings as soon as . . . Best, C.

Gents:- thanks so much for all this info. Pete:- You have emptied your rad (bottom hose). Your 2 mug dissolved washing soda mix goes in the rad. You run the engine and as it runs, top up the rad. To full, as it runs? Then at some stage of running with the heater valve open, the stat opens, lets the water round the system including the heater. Do you run with the rad cap off? I did that after recently having the rad off and reverse flushing (quite a bit of crystalised anti freeze dropped out) - but when the stat opened the rad gulped and burped and sprayed pretty damn hot rad water/antifreeze everywhere - not ideal. But then, rad topped up you leave it in the car and run it around a bit, per day? Then drain, undo all hoses and flush every which way?? Please correct if I've got that wrong. OK. Ta. Next:- this afternoon, I noted the heater valve cable could be opening the valve a little more than it has been. Shouldn't think that's the main problem really. But also the vent direction knob needs some work so I get any heat which does pass through directed to where I want it. The cable sheath is moving at one part of its travel but it's in a b****r of a position to do anything to. That manifold pipe:- hits a union rear of the water pump housing. What comes with a replacement pipe, should I decide to replace in the future? That bulkhead foam seal:- is it replaceable with everything in situ? Mine's original 1970. Someone said it may be leaking any hot air out into the engine bay rather than keeping it in the cabin? Could I just sealant around it - insulate it effectively?? And - oh! I had it mind to swop my steel rad for an aluminium one in the future . . . . you make it sound as if the washing soda treatment will not be suitable if I head that route!!?!! Again:- many thanks chaps. Will try to keep folk posted 😊 Have a great weekend All. C.

Hi Everyone, Please don't all shout at me at once - I promise I have read the Forum suggestions and have had several direct e-mail conversations in this matter:- BUT - I have only just got my Herald back - solid metal where solid metal needs to be albeit there are many things to be fettled - the 'restorer' not being a coach builder by any means. But I digress . . . to things Heater . . . Mainly, this goes out to Pete Lewis:- I want to clear the DG heater matrix of what is bound to be 50 years of crud (and will check the valve if I can). I understand how to do this courtesy of the advice in the forums and kind e-mails from fellow Forum members. And, at this stage of proceedings, I want to do this without dismantling the entire shebang. Pete - I am fascinated by your favoured use of soda crystals (I bought some before the car went away for an unexpected 10 months!). By the way, when living in France, anything requiring heavy duty cleaning, used White Vinegar - highly recommended for limescale removal. I hold some of this. But I know if you boil this, (for example in a kettle) it really boils up in a frothing rush. Hence you only fill the kettle 1/3 full. BUT - what soda crystal solution concentration do you use? And, could I simply substitute this method of cleaning the system instead of a proprietary Rad flush (I also hold)? And, like the white vinegar situation, do you use the soda crystal solution with half a rad of water to allow for any internal chemical action expansion within the system as it runs up to temperature? Is there any harm to the system using soda crystals, getting the engine up to start opening temperatures so that the system is flowing fully, heater valve open?? Then; the best place to drain? Bottom rad hose? Take that off, as well as the heater hoses?? Or heater hoses only? And what of any benefit to using the block drain plug after a system clean-through? is that necessary/productive? So many questions . . . . Cheers everyone (PETE!) Best, C. 1970 Royal Blue Herald 1200 Saloon

'Twas my suspicion! Thanks. I'm set up with mine but I think Colin L fancies some if anyone knows a square nut outlet!!

Hi Colin! Again:- Very helpful - thanks. Shame he couldn't commit his time to make this important aspect of the build right. If you e-mail me now (think I've cleared a load of mails off this phone), I'll attach the pics (which DO sit on this phone! Cheers, Best, C.

Hi Colin! Very comprehensive - thanks. IF . . . here it comes . . . IF the doors are all wrong, too, which would you put 'right' first?? I can see arguments for either or, frankly . . . I'll e-mail pics soon. Best, Colin

Hi! No, I held onto the originals. Had to give them a darn good clean up. I don't know how you can designate square nuts (ooh err missus). I counted 26/27 threads/inch (depends where you start and finish). But clearly UNF. Maybe that's the clue?! 😊

Hi Colin. I've retrieved my Herald from the 'restorer' after 10 months (pic to follow in e-mail - seems my mobile won't go to my photo gallery!). Looks good from a distance and the 10 months and his lack of enthusiasm (except for my money) at the end - exactly where matters of detail matter - have left me with doors and bonnet poorly aligned. I'm currently trying to put things right, item by item. In the end, he didn't use the stainless brackets you kindly helped me source - he seemed to have sorted it at my next visit. All a long story, but in the situation now is I think I'll try to rectify/improve matters myself. So returning to those front brackets (I have never even looked at these elements in my 35 years of ownership); once you have fitted the brackets (does the bonnet have to be removed? I'm a two hand only man) are the bolts tightened up on them? They must be, I'm thinking, or the bonnet would be free to shift forward/back otherwise. Even using the old brackets - they surely should be bolted up tight, shouldn't they? (Think he mentioned in passing they were loose - not checked as yet). And surely, there ought to be enough adjustment with those and the adjustment rods? I did however, whilst we were sorting out an indicator-earth problem he'd caused remove the rad and back flush to get that crystalline deposit issue at least partially sorted (you spotted it when I sent a pic of my old thermostat some time back) Thanks for the hand-holding! Have just had a go at outer door weatherstrip fitting. Inner strip much more challenging I found - I'd be interested to see the order of seals as originally fitted - it may not be possible any more due to lack of original parts? But at least slightly more weatherproof than was. And replaced original sunvisor nuts and now finished with domed chrome 1/4" UNF nuts! Cheers again. Colin.

Gents:- to confirm the correct nut is 1/4 inch UNF! I also ordered BSF which actually fits as well, but by the feel is clearly not exact as is UNF. Hope this helps folk. Best, C.

And ta for the thoughts on the number plate light unit. I have two more thoughts only, even though having made a new and good earth leading from the black earth bulb connector. One is it's maybe the unit fixings to the boot; second, a break in the loom/poor connection somewhere as you rightly say. Otherwise not sure. Don't want to buy a modern two Bub unit particularly. Best, C.

Hi Gents, Sounds as if one of my choices may be the correct ones - not turned up yet:- Here are my units - I've taken a rotary wire brush to the metal and cleaned the plastic covers. Still bearing Stanpart within the moulding, even on this late 1970 saloon! I noted the date stamp on my Solex was 1963, too!!

Hi Chaps; Thanks for replies. I hold 3/8 which are way too big. I have spoken with Namrick who tell me that with my 7/16th spanner across flats, I need 1/4 domed on the thread of the 26/27 t.p.i. bolt (depends how you count!). They are to send me BSF & UNF (because I don't know which it actually is). Will advise soonest! Confess to being confused about nut & bolt sizes - this 26/27 t.p.i. bolt doesn't measure 1/4" diameter, but this is what I'm told I need! Time will tell. In the meantime . . . my number plate light is not working. I discovered that in the car spraying process, most electrics seem to have been disconnected or (mainly) broken and not refitted as per. I have re-soldered bullet connectors, live and new earth and replaced the bulb. Nothing. Am just about to put a volt meter across it, but any ideas for other variations on an annoying theme welcome . . . Best, C.

Hi Folks, I've recently had work to my Herald 1200 Saloon. Some clever soul has lost one of the chrome domed nuts which sit on the top of the unblind pivot fixing. Looks awful. Does anyone know what size/thread I'd need to locate, (and which of any of our favourite suppliers might be best approached) please?? Cheers, Colin W.

Thanks Colin! 🙂

Message to Colin Lindsay; Colin, can you please issue me Pail Copeland's correct e-address (you have my private e-mail address if need be)? I have an urgent need to purchase however many are needed to allow the guy finishing off my 1200's bodywork.The adjustment rods are at full stretch and he has no further play. In the Club magazine, PC's e-address I think, was published incorrectly. I tried a variation, but no go . . . Thanks in advance. Best, Colin Winn

Great advice chaps - many thanks!

Thanks, Both! Canley's looked the original part number up - no longer available. Then, they must in the past have needed to discover what was originally used and identified 1/4" UNF. So have some arriving soon hopefully. Grateful for the advice regarding what is frequently used and how to identify size designation! Best, CW

Hi Folks, I have a missing rear roof to deck nut that should fit on the bolts that fit through attached to the roof (as I understand it from the guy doing the work). Does anyone know what the missing nut designation is? He says it's 11mm (I think this may be across flats?!). He says the bolts are fine threaded - So I'm guessing the originals are UNF . . . but what designation? Half Inch?? And from where might I acquire said nuts? All ideas welcomed - thanks. Best, Colin W

Hi. I posted somewhere else - an accident my ex-wife had in my absence in our Herald 1200 saloon following rear end clunking for some considerable time:- I too, had multiply changed all the UJ's (definition of madness doing the same thing over and over). I'm now pretty sure it was one rear half shaft (yoke end) pin-through-pressed spline joint broke somehow. Everything became loose at rear end and she and my daughter were lucky not to have crashed. The clunk had puzzled me for donkey's - and I still think to this day that I would have had NO WAY of figuring out that the pin was broken/coming loose and would allow the splined shaft to come away from the yoke. I sincerely hope it won't happen to anyone else. Stay safe.

HI folks, The chap renovating my 1970 Herald 1200 has unfortunately dropped the rear number plate light unit glass. Rather not buy a whole unit with all the gubbins inside - just the glass. Can anyone confirm the markings on the glass please? For instance, SAE R68 embossing and - LUCAS L766 ENGLAND If that's what's on a 1200, then I may have found one on the 'net . . . Thanks for any available help!

Thanks for the advice from the history of such a thread. I found it just easier to buy a complete half shaft assembly and fix up. Obviously hoping the pros have used all the relevant components icluding solid not rolled, pins. The one that 'went', was fitted from new . . . Best, C.

Thanks, JagNut Mike! That's very helpful! 😉 Best, Colin (Winn).