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Colin

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Posts posted by Colin

  1. Hi Josef, Jon J1250 et Al;

    I have purchased and am paint prepping Chic Doig's Front Body Mounting panels (pic of naked panel).

    Now knowing from your pics of the positioning context, and looking at the holes in the mounts, will I need rubber mounting pads where it sits on the outrigger (?!?), Nuts/Bolts/Large Washers?? In other words, once this panel is in poisition, what are the fixings - from where and to what?

    I let the North West Kent garage have £100's worth of Rimmer fitting kit and did not secure its rescue when I came away from them. I'm not keen to have to shell out another £100 for the same kit, with half of it already having been used to fix what has been fixed with the outriggers & side rail replacements!

    All information gratefully received. Thanks again in advance. Kind regards,

    Colin (Herne Bay). P.S. Club Electronic ignition now fitted. She still runs!! 😁 Am about to fit LED reverse lights at some point in the near future - but have 'B' post internal sill-rear seat heel kick plate corrosion problems to sort (Chic Doig looking into fabricating a panel - here's hoping!)

    Chic Doig Front Body Mount Panels.jpg

  2. Hi Gents,

    Not sure if I am permitted to inform in this manner. But I hope it helps. I rang a well known Scottish bracket/panel & mount manufacturing supplier, following on from your previous advices. He has sent me the following photos of his front body mount replacement solutions.

    I think I'm looking at mounts on their own and alternatively, mounts attached to a complete panel for replacement.

    He states he also has 'A' post replacement panels, too. Currently trying to get pics of this/these. Best, C.

    Front Chassis Mounts Individual 20231025.jpg

    Front Chassis Mounts in Panel 2023 10 25.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. Hello again, chaps; can anyone please send me photos of the door rain drain holes? They were neglected to be created when both door skins were renewed. I'd rather not find the doors half-filled with rainwater, should I ever decide to - or get caught in the rain! 

    Cheers, Colin.

  4. John J 1250 - Thank you so much!

    Those pics are supremely helpful (as with Josef's!). They are especially interesting to me, because as with the specialist I took it to, my very early conversation revolved around one of the mechanics saying he'd need to take the side valances off  - and your pictures really show why.

    So thank you for your informative visual illustration. I understand that most of this work would be so much easier with the tub off, but still looks to me (and I know I don't weld) that it is do-able with the tub on.

    I'm grateful.

    Best,

    C.

  5. Hi Josef. It's at times like this I wish I had learned to weld!

    Am if I'm honest, I don't know what I mean by front body-mounts, except that the many looking underneath her on the garage lift said they'd need repair and that it was do-able, but probably sill removal would be necessary (fine). However, my 'educated' guess would be they (& I) referred to thevpoint at which o/s front outrigger meets font of o/s siderail . . . these must be adjoined to the bodytub in some way. I know I have a front lower scuttle perforation in front of the accelerator pedal which is not a million miles away from that point and maybe it's there they were referring to. I was expecting a 'patch' repair to that part!! As far as the 'inside' video goes, I think that those areas could be judicially cut, and repair panels fabricated (although I hold new & prepped 'B' post supports which could be welded in)? And, although not ideal, body-on, from the inside . . . 101 ways to skin a cat . . . ?? Either way, I am where I am and I need to resolve this before I can put her into any sense of normality!! 🙂 Cheers for your thoughts!! 

    Best, C

  6. Fellow Chaps; I should report back. Remember: 1970 1200. We had extensive chats about fold-over tabs on outriggers for body-on, body-tub chassis member & siderail replacements. Well, the fêted garage I selected certainly did replace my (Rimmer purchase) supplied riggers & rails (photos) to the car I fully stripped out. Whether they decided to add tabs or not I'm not sure (but should have been communicated to me). I expected body mounts to have been attended to but collected the car, still full of paint-metal grounds, an insulating strip unfitted and body mounts unattended to. I then went through a protracted dialogue concerning said mounts and surprise, surprise was told the car would need to be body-off to renew; was given another estimate twice the cost of the rigger/rail work). Surely at this stage a hard & fast price could be created, I thought? Additionally, the cost of 'panels' (passenger area floor replacement for one) to be used were on the 'estimate' list, for which no costs were given and I established they had no accounts with any of the usual Triumph trade suppliers. They were therefore unable to say where said panels  would come from. My feeling was they'd fabricate bit charge me for retail units. Either way, I pulled out from having its second session booking and am left with a fully stripped out car. Bonnet & driver's door worse a fit than they were. With thd photos & film I upload here, I am currently trying again to find someone to undertake the mount renewal works (and have already been told again by A.N.Other that said bodymount works CAN be achieved from the interior, body-on). I hold both sides, prepped 'B' post supports. Herewith the photos & film. And yes, I am kicking myself for having done her up 'arse-about-face', e.g. yes I should have had the old corroded body off, chassis fixed and then body re-built . . . but budgets are extremely tight and I have been hoping a bit-by-bit approach was going to be possible. As they say, it's the hope that kills!!   Cheers, All!                                           C.

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  7. Although just to add, thise in the pic are not those that would hold, for example, the pocket(s) that arecoriginal and exist in my 1200 trims . . . whose long leg still slots into the padded welds, but only have a bent 'v' shape to tightly snap onto the folded pocket edge - not sure my photo will show well:- I've been painting the rear unprimed card surfaces just as a modicum of anti-humidity protection.20230917_131308.thumb.jpg.4db6c1fe4943a584bb7f72d654ed85bb.jpg

  8. Pete H . . . yes, probably difficult to get. I have one missing that should affix one side of the side rear trim panel storage hole onto the padded card. Fortunately, I think I can make one out of some very thin and tough flat wire I've acquired from somewhere . . . Don't know how successful it'll be as clearly, a fair flat length sits in the padded plastic trim. Not sure what stops the originals coming out. Probably best glue it in place.

    C.

  9. Hi Chaps,

    Please see pics:- 

    Are these trim panel clips still available (this panel is the trim panel that affixes the bagged sound-proofing to the front of the passenger footwell)?

    Anyone have a part number & supplier source, please?

    Thank you! 

    PS, 'best' (value for money & works!) sound-proofing product to possibly replace the somewhat tired, bagged rockwool??!? Cheers! 

    C.

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  10. Nice! Well done on the working the lights thing out. We had our place - built in two mirror image halves; one 1739 & then 1841 rewired. Given their mains wall sockets have no ground, I recall purple wiring being in the mix and even though I wrote it all down after a Google search, still didn't really understand what that did!! 🤣

    Best,

    C.

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