[Heater controls now stuck]

Thanks. I’ll try that before I take anything out 

 

Kevin

[Heater controls now stuck]

Thanks for this. The pivot turns about 50 % of its range so I concluded that the pivot in the heater box was ok 

I disconnected the cable at the dashboard end and tried moving it by hand and it didn’t move any more so presumed the problem was in the heater box. Don’t know if something has rusted off and dropped down to prevent full movement ? 
 

I didn’t do the other end of the cable but will do now. It started to look like a full day job and I didn’t have time Sunday night 

thanks kevin

[Heater controls now stuck]

Ah yes I have some insulation in the roof that will do thanks

 

Pete The outer clamps ? 
 

kevin

[Heater controls now stuck]

I have a GT6 and have noticed that the LH heater control that selects where the heat should be diverted to, is now largely stuck and has a significantly smaller range of travel than it once did. It goes about 50 % from side to side.  I’ve had a quick look under at the actual fan unit and can’t see anything obviously wrong. I’ve removed the cable and I’m pretty certain that the problem is internal to the fan box but don’t know how far the lever  should travel so hard to tell

looking at the Haynes manual it looks a bit of a nightmare to get out and when I do then the thick (foam?) washers/spacers don’t appear to be available any more so I’m reluctant about removing and then can’t refit

Is it really necessary to remove the gearbox tunnel to get the fan box out ? any suggestions as to what to do pre fan box removal and secondly where to get the material for manufacture of spare spacers from as shown in the pic that I’ve borrowed from Canley pts no 616627

thanks Kevin

[Oil filter orientation]

Anyone in the market for a pair of Mann 714 - 2 oil filters. I ordered them last night before all the comments came through ! Oh well, will look good in the spares box! 
 

kevin

[Oil filter orientation]

Thanks all. Much appreciated

Steve P what Mann filter did you get? All the ones I can find are not spin on ones 

 

thanks kevin

[Oil filter orientation]

Hi there. The previous owner swapped the oil filter for a spin on one however the orientation of the filter ( at about the 8 o’clock post) has always made it a nightmare to get on and off as I can’t connect an oil filter wrench as the filer fouls the oil pressure relief and taking the old filer off was a problem and i dripped oil everywhere……

As I now don’t have the fuel pump in the way, I thought I could re orientate the whole set up to the 12 o’clock position ( which I have done and access is much better ) and was happy with until No1 son raised concerns that he had never seen another car with an upright oil filter

ive looked at the old one and can’t see any reason why it shouldn’t work. 
 

your thoughts are appreciated pls 

regards

kevin

[Front bearing replacement]

Managed to extract by removing the whole axle and both the inner and outer stub axles are 2 thou oversize to the old shaft and the new bearings go on the old shaft. Both shafts are the same size 
 

Unfortunately I’ve allowed the Myford to go to the sons house and have spent a very happy 30 mins spinning it in a drill with fine wet and dry and have achieved precisely almost nothing. 
 

other than fitting the old ones, any suggestions?

kevin

[Front bearing replacement]

This is now turning into a nightmare project that was only going to take a few hrs. I’ve tried to re assemble the bearing and it won’t move. I’ve measured the new stub axle that I’m yet to fit on the other side and it’s 2 thou over the diameter of the old one and also feels like it was turned rather than ground. Can’t get the bearing off now. 
 

Just love it. great. 
 

kevin

[Front bearing replacement]

I’ve trimmed to +2 mm and plan to try and compress the rest.  Reading the above then I guess I need to also grease the felt before re assembly - doesn’t say that in the book either! 
 

thanks 

 

Kevin

[Front bearing replacement]

But I see what you mean by the seal being oversize !   Only out by about 4 mm so close ! 

[Front bearing replacement]

All done. They tap out easy when you can see the recesses if you remove the grease as well 

[Front bearing replacement]

Thanks, I bought replacements simply because I’ve replaced everything else in sorting out the vertical supports - it seamed sensible to do everything but am feeling like I neednt have bothered if the advice is to don’t meddle unless it’s a problem.
 

I’ll give a light tap and if they move then I’ll continue else I’ll just re assemble and put he bits back in the spares box  the replacements are Timkin so should be ok quality I hope but agree only replace as pairs 

 

thanks Kevin

[Front bearing replacement]

Thanks. Yes tried that as well - this is as much as it says 

the oil seal fell out so that’s ok but as for removal of the bearings? 
 

kevin

[Front bearing replacement]

Hi all. I’m back on the gt6 front suspension rebuild and up against time as usual. I thought whilst at it I would replace bearings as I haven’t a clue how old they are but I’ve looked in my Haynes and can’t find much on how to remove the bearings. It just says remove and replace   I found a web site that suggest I need to drift them out - is this correct? Usually it’s a press with an appropriate socket set 

if you can point me in the directions of a step by step guide would be appreciated 

 

thanks

 

kevin

[Track rod ends have an extra part ?]

Hi all. The rebuild of the front suspension is going well. The canley trunionless uprights went in nicely

whilst I was doing it I thought I would fit some new track rod ends - bought some from Rimmer and they have an extra plastic shroud that the old ones didn’t. See pictures

I don’t think they are mission critical. I’ve tried fitting them and the protruding boss is so long it covered the whole of the taper and  the won’t do up tight 

Has anyone else had these. Do I bother fitting them ? I think they could fit if I cut most of the boss off ?

suggestions pls appreciated 

 

thanks kevin

[Top ball joint replacement]

Hi all. I’ve largely rebuilt the trunionless suspension and dug into the box from Rimmer for the new shiney top ball joint only to find that it’s got a grease nipple where as the old one doesn’t ? I’ve checked the part number and their site shows what they have sent me - is this correct ? just feels like a retrograde step with sealed for life bearings these days ?

thanks Kevin

[MOSS Rear Spring for MK 1V on eBay, any good?]

I’ll add my 10 peneth to the saga of springs.  I’ve fitted a Rimmer that was rubbish -   Oils t go round corners without hopping

next bought a UK made one and that was the other extreme. Unfortunately I had chucked the old one away - bad move

this time I’ve bought a moss one that wasn’t quite as bad as the Rimmer but not far off but thankfully this time I learnt my lesson and I’ve mixed the two springs up and I have near on perfect ride height.  If it sags then not a problem, I’ll just swap out an old leaf for a new one. I’ve got really good T swapping out springs now. The shop spring lifter really helps get one if you don’t have one 

 

Kevin

[Self cancelling indicator set up]

Thanks for this. My switch is a Rimmer so nothing special. Not a clue what type. It never worked very well on the rhs hence swapping to lhs made little detrimental impact. 
 

I’ll take it apart this weekend and look 

any special advice for fitting the canley trunionless uprights ? 
 

thanks Kevin

[Self cancelling indicator set up]

Hi there. I’m just about to rebuild the front suspension but want to take the opportunity to hopefully get the cancelling indicators to work. I’ve swapped the indicator to the LHS but the steering has been so mucked around with in previous lives that the protrusion on the steering column that should cancel the indicators is I fear misplaced. Looking down when the wheel is suggesting straight forward, the protrusion isn’t either straight up or down. 
 

When I swapped the indicators to the LH S i maintained the uk spec switch but reversed the wiring so all works there but where should the protrusion be pls. What I intend to do is to set this in the right place then re set the wheels to about the right direction before having them properly aligned 

 

thanks in advance kevin

[Drone from the back end]

Is there a drain plug on the rear diff. I’m not sure I’ve ever spotted it 

 

kevin

[Swapping the indicator stalk from the rhs to the left]

Thanks I’ll have a go. I saw that replacement decals were available some time ago and I’ll have another look. 
 

I think I’ll suffer the wrong light position as I don’t often drive with the full beam on anyway 

 

thanks

 

kevin

[Drone from the back end]

Interesting replies thanks. 
I’ve checked out the canley site and mine is the reverse. It’s silent when accelerating but noisy when at steady speed

ill jack up again tonight and have a go at the ujss again  I did try but it all felt tight - what’s the best technique for testing them pls ? 
 

thanks Kevin

 

 

[Swapping the indicator stalk from the rhs to the left]

All

ive got frustrated and plan to change the stalk from the rhs to the left on the gt6 but want the cancel device to continue working 

im presuming lots of others have done this successfully - Rimmer sell a LHD stalk for the overseas market and logic tells me that this should work. Has anyone tried this ? 
 

thanks 

 

Kevin

[Drone from the back end]

Reading the subjects from others I may be suffering from similar ailments on the GT6 mk3 ( non roto) overdrive rear end

when I drive at constant speed I get a constant “der donk” noise that reduces considerably when accelerating. This to me suggests diff gear wear and backlash ?  Thoughts ?  It’s passed an Mot so I think they would have checked ujs and they were replaced a couple of years ago anyway and the prop is a refurbished unit 

ive thought about getting a replacement diff but I’m unsure of the ratio that I need to source and also where to get it refurbished ? I’ll do many things but don’t have the tools for this myself 

thanks kevin