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chrishawley

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chrishawley last won the day on July 2 2019

chrishawley had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Hertfordshire and Bedfordshire
  • Cars Owned
    Triumph Spitfire 1500: Up and running
    Triumph GT6 Mk3: Undergoing restoration.

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  1. Thanks for the replies which have got me asking the right sort of questions, although answers are as yet elusive. I'd had it handed down to me that 1.5 inch carbs (be they ZS or SU) were never adequate fittings for 2.5L engines. But picking up on the Aussy spec I found reference that European 2.5 saloons had 1.5 inch ZS carb (CD3) also with B5DG needles. Meanwhile TRs always had 1.75 inch carbs. So I infer from that that BL found that a 150 series carb satisfactory on applications with a 'slow' cam and lower compression. My engine is 'slow' with the 10/50 cam. Maybe I'll have to consider moving up to 1.75 carbs but will explore the lower cost options first. So, if it seems reasonable, I'll put some some B5DG needles in (or if unavailable B5CB) and see what happens. QUESTION: What determines the height of the jet (in relation to the bridge) on a CDSE? The needle can only go in one place on the shoulder down the bore of the air valve. But the jet - does that have a fixed position or is it something I should be checking the measurement on? I was hoping to make the Knebworth show in this car - but that hope appears to be receding (sad face thingy). Thnx C
  2. Hope you've got cleaned up ok! Bit off topic but just to introduce some caution about using discs for flatting/cutting. Even 2000 grade on a rotary machine can rip through to primer very quickly on crowns and edges (although it's pretty safe on the flat). Everybody has their own way when refinishing but one way is to initially flat by hand with 1200 on a soft block and then work the G3 fast, hard and wet. G3 (or G6) cut well but don't bring up much of a shine. Again, it's impossible to generalise, but after G3 or 6 it's common to follow up with G10 or 3M Finesse-It for a more reflective finish. Hope it goes well.
  3. With much Forum help previously I had successfully rebuilt the 150CDSEs. Or so I thought. But on installing them I can't get a rich enough mixture on the adjustment. By whatever means I use (piston lift, Colourtune) the mixture is weak at idle and across the whole range. Car won't pull above 3500rpm. Temperature compensators are blanked off. These were originally GT6 carbs and on rebuild the original jets and needles were reused. With these carbs the engine starts and idles nicely but feeble power beyond that. Nothing will induce the C.Tune to show anything other than blue. I have a knackered pair of Triumph 2000 CDSEs and if I fit these overall performance of the vehicle is pretty reasonable. So although these carbs are beyond saving they work just well enough to rule out other (non-carb) causes of poor running. I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to investigate further. Obviously having had the carbs apart 'technician error' is a likely part of the equation - but just what is beyond me at the moment. Thnx C
  4. In both instances it does require the adapter unit with switch to be the on-the-bench. If the switch is very tight in the adapter then heat may be more useful than force to extract it. The bad scenario would be to shear the switch with a stub left in the adapter and evidently the adapters are irreplaceable. Heat could be applied by any means (e.g. cigarette lighter, torch) or immerse in hot cooking oil. Doesn't need to be super hot - heating up by 100 degrees C is 1% expansion which can be enough of a difference (for starters at least). In the event of the flats on the switch showing early signs of rounding off I'd be inclined to hacksaw off the bulb of the switch so a socket can be applied. In the event of the AF being 'odd' or 'now indeterminate' a wall-drive socket (rather than hex or bi-hex) has a better chance of getting a purchase. I can think of other more extreme methods for removing the switch from the adapter but hopefully such won't be required. P.S. On refitting a new copper washer would be ideal or failing that to anneal the old one.
  5. I'd explore foreign bodies on the back on the needle valves as the first thing because it is very easy to get a definite diagnosis or at least be able to firmly exclude that diagnosis. Admittedly having to take the carbs off is a tad tedious and more so if one (!) has forgotten to have spare float chamber gaskets to hand if required. That said, and having removed the needle valves, if one blows backward through the valves with an air duster or WD40 onto a piece of clean tissue paper clear evidence will be produced of whether or not they were obstructed (although rubber bits are usually pretty obvious just on inspection). A related matter to is to ensure that the metal interconnecting fuel pipe between the carbs is not, itself, full of detritus which will then continually feed forward on to the back of the needle valves. Mine was full of debris and needed a thorough clean. And when replacing use only new, top quality, ethanol proof, rubberhose from a reputable source.
  6. Problem resolved. Removed plug and there wasn't any significant deformation of either the male or female portions. New plug fitted with PTFE. Now no leak. Thanks C
  7. While pondering your question I came across a report which might help with the 'is it worth it?' question. The study, early seventies, made systematic variations to the four cylinder engine and measured the outcome under controlled conditions. One variation was to interchange a Stromberg carb with a pair of HS2s. The finding was a 10% uplift in power at 4000rpm and above with the SUs. But below 4000 there was no difference at all. And that accords with my own experience of once having swapped a Spitfire Mk3 engine with all ancillaries into a 13/60. Gave just a little bit more 'perk' upper end but nothing transformative. For myself the deciding factor would be the condition of the SUs. If they were in tip top condition (or I could readily afford to make them that way) then I'd do the swap because there's nothing to lose and a bit to gain. But a worn pair might never tune up properly so, overall, any theoretical advantages would be negated.
  8. Getting a cosy fit for the tailgate seal on GT6 can be a most trying experience and, as it turned out for me, expensive. One thing is for sure; If you buy a part designated as specifically a GT6 tailgate seal from any of the Triumph suppliers it will most likely not fit. What you will get is some generic Top Seal that you could have bought from Baines for half the price. What determines the correct seal is (of course!) the gap between the inner face of the gate and the lip on the aperture itself. This can vary a lot depending what, aesthetically, looks like the best fit in the context of the vehicle. For example, on my current GT6 the 'best fit' was to shim under the hinges by about 3mm to get a good line flowing from the roof panel. In the end, and after £££s wasted, I found that a Top Seal with a 10mm upstand was best. But I only got there by buying a variety of one yard sections from various places with heights of 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and proceeding by trial and error 'till i got the best fit. Places I used included Baines, Woolies, East Kent Trim and Holden. What is a 'cosy' fit on the seal can be assessed by fitting a test section and closing the 'gate with a sheet of A4 paper trapped in between. If the paper is loose then the seal is too thin, but if it can't be pulled out at all then that's too tight. And, of course, GT6 tailgates should sit prim and proper in the aperture. 'Puffed out' upsets what is for me a genius bit of rear end styling.
  9. Ok. I'll proceed on the basis that a the female thread is recoverable and a new NPTF plug will produce a most satisfactory result. If the thread is mullered then I may well be back for further thoughts. Thanks C
  10. GT6 with 2500 big box. Recon box installed and very nice it is too. Except it's weeping fluid from the drain plug. It's in very tight and I'm wondering what the remedy might be. Does it 'look right' to you? Is a possibility that a BSPP plug has been persuaded into what is meant to be 3/8 (18) NP thread? Is it appropriate to use either PTFE tape or a sealant (e.g Hylomar) when refitting? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. My current idea is to remove the current plug and replace with a (known good) NOS 3/8 NP plug with a little Hylomar but I'd happily be advised otherwise. Thanks in advance C
  11. Dealing with seams. Hmmm. It's a very broad question. If one takes the very top end of restoration (e.g. having one's E-type done by Jaguar Heritage) then every seam will be picked apart and remedied to better than OE standard. Fine, if one's got the odd £150k to spend (!). Alternatively, say, one might have Daihatsu Copen worth 2 or 3 grand and only a limited budget to get it good enough to have a bit of fun for a while; In which case compromises must be made. One can expect all seams put together 3 , 4, 5 decades to have some degree or corrosion in them and perhaps a useful guide is whether the seam is 'blown'; e.g. has got fatter due to internal pressure from rust with the spot welds becoming deeper and more pronounced as the metal tries to expand apart. Once 'blown' there is little option but to make a welded repair either sooner or later. And, of course, not all seams are of equal significance. Take a GT6 for example. Any rust in the front roof seam (to the screen surround) requires a full repair since any spread onto the roof will look terrible. Conversely, rust in the seams on the tailgate can be todged over with seam sealant or filler and can be out of sight/out of mind for reasonable number of years. I'd be interested to know how others approach this but for myself I have two tactics for dealing with 'marginal' situations where a welded repair is not cost-effective but the aim is to protect the seam for longer: 1) Take Bondaprimer, dilute with standard thinners to get a watery consistency, then work into the seam repeatedly with a fine brush and/or 2) Saturate the seam with WD40 or similar. Then after a few minutes flashing off follow up with a very thin wax (e.g. Supertrol, Dinitrol ML) that has good creeping properties. NOT, as I've found to my cost, using a heavy wax (e.g. Waxoyl) which won't creep and by sitting on top of the seam does more to seal water in, rather than sealing it out. I suppose my only other thought is not to do things which make the situation worse. I have my hands on a VW camper where the PO put carpet underlay all over the interior of the vehicle and it became a damp sponge, blocked all the drain holes and prevented any air circulation. Result sadly predictable!
  12. My question here is, in practice, what is the best approach to adjusting the ride height on the front suspension. So: Vehicle is in a state where I have started giving it initial shakedowns up and down the unmetalled track. I note limited clearance between the lip of the front wheel arches and the tyre. While I don't have any official measurements for what he lip to ground height should be (or lip to tyre) I'm working on the basis that if one can slide the palm of one's hand in then that's about what it would have been OE. So on that basis an extra half inch might be my initial aim and see how it looks from there. Seems like I have three options: 1) Spacer between upper spring pan and turret, 2) spacer on lower spring pan and 3) ride and height adjustable shocks (£££s!!). Based on the experience of others, what's the best route to go down in the first instance? I'm also not clear on the geometry of spacers. If I put in (say) a 0.5 inch spacer does that raise the body height by (what is the effective) diagonal thickness of the spacer e.g 0.7 inch or so? Front setup is entirely standard 155/80/r13 on 4.5J. Correct springs (Fitchetts) and generic shocks. Nothing moded. Not shimmed for camber yet. Tracking about 1/16 toe in at present (kerb condition) Of course, there's the rear susp to consider. That has it's own issues. Still sitting on the high(ish) side despite reusing the old spring and with a one inch spacer but I waiting to see how much that'll settle during shakedowns. Any opinions general or specific on all of the above would be much appreciated. Thanks C
  13. Terry, some q-light photos of my attempt with the outer weatherstrip. C
  14. Every day is a learning day! Having gone considerable effort, not to mention expense, to refurb my CDSEs none of the running issues were resolved. Here's how to replicate my experience with bonus points if you can get all the listed items to happen at once, such as I did. 1) Ensure that the 'y' fuel pipe between the carbs is as full as possible with rust, detritus and bits of rubber. 2) Loosen the hose for the servo on the inlet manifold to give a discreet air leak 3) To further increase air leakage make a long split in the rubber end connector for the vacuum advance 4) Then ensure that the breather pipes are old and stiff and don't seal properly. Avoid the use of hose clips as they might make things better. 5) Remove a section of the perimeter of the paper gasket between the carb heat insulator and the inlet manifold. Will also work by removing a chunk of the outer gasket but better to have the problem in the gasket which is not so readily inspected. 6) When refitting the y-piece having filled it with crud (see #1 above) mount it on the piss so that the rubber connectors are distorted and collapse on the inside. I award myself the wooden spoon for putting hand in pocket before putting brain in gear! P.S. yup, it's runs nicely now.
  15. Fitting up these doors can be a most trying experience. There is no prescribed sequence but my way is as follows: 1) Fit the window winder mechanism noting for later reference how much adjustment is available in relation to the two setscrews that hold the center triangular mounting. 2) Fit door handles. locks and associated parts. Adjust for correct operation. 3) Fit quarterlight assembly with associated brackets (having first checked that felt runner is good). Using the many adjusting points lightly nip up with a correct gap to the windscreen frame. 4) Insert drop glass. Work running channel on to the wheels on the lift mechanism. 5) Insert rear drop glass runner (again checking that the felt is good). 6) It's now necessary to, with great patience, repeatedly adjust the quarterlight assembly, the glass and the rear runner to achieve nice running of the glass with everything in a good position with glass both raised and lowered. 7) Now to the glazing /weatherstrips. The 'book' method is to work from the outside of the door with the glass in situ using a hooked tool to pull the strips and their clips upwards onto the lips on the door skin. In practice this is not possible because most aftermarket strips are fatter than the originals. 7b) So: Note the position of the rear glass runner that was previously obtained. Remove runner. Work glass off the wheels of the lift mechanism and let rest in bottom of the door. The (outer) weatherstrip may need to be trimmed to length so that it is just the full length of the door. Where it overlaps the quaterlight assembly it may need to be skinnied down to give the correct appearance. Place in position and push on clips with thumb from inside the door (not easy). The standard clips supplied may not fit depending on the thickness of the rubber. May need to source generic alternative. 7c) Much the same for the inner (felt) glazing strip. This only goes partway along the length of the door as far as the rear of the q-light assembly. Trim to length a/r. This time though put the clips on the strip first and then thumb in to position from inside the door. BUT: If your vehicle has the vinyl door capping this must be installed before fitting the inner glazing strip. 8 ) Put drop glass back on its wheels. Re-attach rear glass runner into former position. Wind glass up and assess position. Highly likely that another round of adjustment at all points will be required (tiresome). 9) Lastly install the stops to control upper and lower range of travel of the drop glass. The large felt covered bottom stops are pretty obvious. Not so obvious are the either two or four l-shaped brackets (held by No. 10 unf setscrews) which limit the movement of the arms of the window lift mechanism. Often go missing. The one which blocks the upward movement of the glass is crucial as without it the glass will push on the q-light frame upsetting the previously hard won adjustment. Hope I've not missed too much out. In theory fitting up these doors is a simple procedure; In practice a great deal of trial and error is involved.
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