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chrishawley last won the day on July 2 2019

chrishawley had the most liked content!

About chrishawley

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Hertfordshire and Bedfordshire
  • Cars Owned
    Triumph Spitfire 1500: Up and running
    Triumph GT6 Mk3: Undergoing restoration.

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  1. I imagine this has been well discussed previously. But here goes: While pondering whether to declare the Spitfire 1500 MOT exempt the MOT fell due. So I had it done. During the process of testing one rear brake showed inadequate braking and then a further push of the pedal locked the brake full on. Having got the car home the problems were self-evident; seized wheel cylinder and incorrectly fitted shoes. Duly fixed. The MOT was definitely worth it.
  2. Spitfire 1500 with single rail, overdrive, box. Possibly originally a Dolomite box. Issue is this: Box is making a fizzy/rumbly noise at idle which disappears when clutch is depressed. So I'm assuming likely cause is input shaft front bearing. Probably go for an exchange-recon box. Gearbox in and out no problem for me. But removing and replacing the o.d. unit is not something I've ever done. I messed up badly when replacing the o.d. on my GT6 and had give the whole assembly to a specialist to make good. Haynes makes the process sound easy peasy. But what in practice are the like
  3. Leading the channel. What I did was: • Used a low melting point solder i.e. body solder • Break into crumbs, place in channel and melt in with torch until channel full to brim • Once cool (ish) bend to shape in the pre-formed..errr.. former. • Melt out solder into mash pot for future re-use • Channel now rusty, so dipped in hydrochloric acid, wash, then Jenolite. Painted a/r. I'll get that bit of of seal off to you, at least that's something definite to work from. Regs C
  4. Had a rootle around and here's some further info • The OE length of the seal was 35 inches as supplied. But the fitted length is shorter than that on later models • See photos: The seal is 1/4 inch at its root and 3/8th at base which makes the external width of the channel approx 7/16th. After much searching I eventually found some preformed channel from a Morris Minor which could then be adapted to GT6 purposes. It's the 'lower door seal retaining channel'. Can't remember who was the supplier though. To bend it to shape I made a curved jig then filled the channel with lead w
  5. Don't bin the alternator, it could be fine. If you completely disconnect an alternator then there will be no current going TO the alternator, from the battery via the ignition warning light, to energise the field coils. Hence no magnetism, so no generation of volts or amps. That's a simplification but it'll do. Just as well really as an energised alternator running with no load can self destruct pretty instantly. One option for a basic test of an alternator is: 1) Measure battery voltage with ignition off. Should 12.something volts. 12.6 for example 2) Start car, warm up
  6. All GT6s has the extra sill seal up to and including post 20000 (non roto). A minor detail was that at some point they were shortened by a couple of inches. As per part no. 711537/8 the extra seal is retained in the hockey stick u-channel which is welded to the sill and a-post base filler section. Unsurprisingly 711537/8 are utterly unavailable. I do have a jig for making them but it's a time consuming process even then. Welding them on is tricky as well, since it involves getting tiny plug welds down the base of the channel on to the sill, although blind rivets would be a possible method of
  7. Glad you've got a workable result and that it's proved relatively simple. That seems to tally with the theoretical considerations --- doing a bit of maths on your measurements the effect of removing the shim is (approx.) to shift the rear track from 1/32th (ish) toe out to 1/32th (ish) toe in for the kerb condition. So that's in range by the specs. Cheers C
  8. I had a look at various books to get some more insight into this. Some points I picked up are: • Although alignment is best done in the laden condition Triumph did specify measurements for the kerb condition, namely: rear 1/32 to 3/32 in. toe in. Front 1/16 to 1/8th toe in. • The tolerance between ‘right’ and ‘wrong’ is 1/16th in. - pretty fine measurements • Haynes (for both gt6 and spit) says ‘don’t do this at home, specialist equipment required’. • Rear wheel alignment uses the front wheels as the datum. So where to go from here? I
  9. To take a step back; there are 8 points of adjustment on a Spitfire suspension; Namely: left and right rear radius arms, shims (2), front and rear of lower front wishbones, shims (4), track rod ends, threads (2). That's leaving aside the steering rack itself. If the car has been reassembled by persons unknown then it's quite possible that nothing has been set correctly, a lot of unknowns. And another unknown on POs restoration is how well the chassis was checked for true or whether it was just thought to 'look ok'. That a PO would fit the brake shoes incorrectly does less than inspire con
  10. As a baseline setting I use 7 - 10 lpm and adjust from there if special circumstances require.
  11. The original stuff would have been a butyl, non-setting, sealant putty. OE may have been Glasticon or Sealistik; these being variations similar to the once ubiquitous DumDum. Alas DumDum is no more. Banned a few years ago because of chemical nasties. The best substitute I've found is Arbomast windscreen sealant (readily available). This is runnier than DumDum but if some is sqeezed out of the tube (say the size of a golf ball) and left to air dry for a couple of days it will firm up without ever hardening completely. On the radius arm attachments the point of a non-setting butyl seal
  12. Time to ask for some help again. Mk 3 GT6: I need to replace the door drop glass. I've got new glass and undamaged channels on the old units, which I can prise off. What's a good way to get the glass to be tightly gripped in the channel so it doesn't come out. Last time I did this a few years ago on a Herald the glass would work loose periodically and hence go up but not down. Any suggestions on how to get a good result here? Cheers C
  13. Thanks. Being a very early Mk3 it has static belts and I'm the proud owner of a NOS set (719913) ready to fit. So something to hang them off is a bit of a necessity. Stag ones look like a useful substitute. For £11 nothing too loose by giving them a go. Cheers C
  14. Having refitted the interior of the GT6 I find I am missing the seat belt stowage hooks. Nope, nothing left in the box of bits that was the car when it came to me. Could any kind soul send me a a photo of some so I know what they are supposed to look like and where exactly they mount? I don't imagine that finding any proper ones will be easy so any suggestions on good enough 'lookalikes' would be greatly welcomed. All help much appreciated as ever. Cheers C
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