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chrishawley

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chrishawley last won the day on July 2 2019

chrishawley had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Hertfordshire and Bedfordshire
  • Cars Owned
    Triumph Spitfire 1500: Up and running
    Triumph GT6 Mk3: Undergoing restoration.

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  1. GT6 Mk3 with roto. Due to operator suboptimality ('cock up') I'm going to have to re-do the drive shafts in my GT6. I have a collection of roto shafts/hubs some from Vitesse some from GT6. But I don't know which is which. AFAIK they should be fully interchangeable. Although the Vitesse has a narrower track than the GT6 this is due to chassis dimensions not the drive units themselves. I'd appreciate advice to confirm (or disconfirm) that I could use the best of the units irrespective of whether they were originally V or G. Any advice on this point? Many thanks in advance C
  2. This is completely solvable! Been there and done it (several times). Because this is a recurring problem with GT6s I posted a procedure for attaching the venting complete with photos. Can't re-post right now because the files are on my other computer which I've not got with me at the moment. But should be in the archive under search terms 'bodywork' , 'GT6', 'vent', 'ducting'. If it can't be found let me know and I can re-post later on. If you need a photo of the NS vent freshly fitted I could send you one but that would have to be tomorrow. Just to check a) that you do have the GT6 heater box and not a Spitfire one which lacks the two bottom outlets b) and that you have the correct bits for attachment to the parcel shelf - namely the hoop (like a Terry clip) that goes round the eyeball assembly and the special angled bracket which attaches to 'hoop' to the rail on the shelf - this bracket is handed but left and right are easily mixed up. The Canley picture from the parts manual is misleading because it implies that the footwell eyeball points down to the ground. Correct is more like 45 degrees to the left of the car and 45 degrees toward the rear. This can definitely be sorted out! Let me know if you need me to repost.
  3. Super. Thanks. TCs were absolutely shot as predicted. Also note that I'm losing oil from the rear dashpot. So looks like a full scale strip/rebuild is in order. But I'm a lot further forward than I was so thanks for the advice. Cheers C
  4. Thank you. Much appreciated as always. I'll cross check the timing static now I know there's a method but it looks like 8BTDC idle on the strobe has got me in the right area (unlike 'other advice' which had me at 4ATDC dynamic at idle). Next step carbs. Is your preference to shut down the TempComps and leave them that way permanently? Or just to shut them down to establish a better state of tune and then set them up correctly again? Cheers C
  5. I know this problem from a GT6 perspective, which is to say that the leading edge of the drop glass runs of at an angle to the desired line. The solution was eventually found by examining the window lift mechanism. The center, triangular piece held by two bolts, has leeway for a certain amount of adjustment allowing the glass to be tilted. Adjusting this tilt corrected the problem on the GT6. I know Spit lift mechanism is not exactly the same as GT6 but it might be worth looking at this to see if the same principle applies. Apart from being adjustable the other thing about the forward and rear glass channels is the condition of the felt running strips. Again speaking from GT6 experience old/worn felts don't control the movement of the glass sufficiently and some replacement felts are too fat so the glass doesn't run freely or correctly. I can provide measurements off my neverbeenwelded Spit if you need. Do message me if I can help with this. C
  6. Addendum to prev post. Only just occurred to me that that the electronic module is getting its power feed piggybacked off the + terminal of the coil. (red wire) This may well mark out that unit as requiring a 12v power feed - which may be why that ballast resistor was removed in the first place. In which case the power pick up the EM would need to be from the 'in' side of a ballast resistor (12v) rather than the + ve of the coil which would now only have 6v.
  7. If you've got two wires coming out of the loom then presumably this is an early GT6 with (or did have) the external ballast resistor. One wire should be white (to the 'in' side of the resistor) and the other should be white/yellow (to the 'out' side of the resistor). Later GT6s has resistance wire built into the loom so there's only one wire, white/yellow, going to the coil. The coil for a ballasted system is designed to run on 6 volts and has a resistance across the primary windings of approx 1.5 ohms The coil for a non ballasted system is designed to run on 12 v and has a resistance across the primary windings of approx 3 ohms If the coil is getting silly hot then the setup maybe feeding 12v to a coil intended for a ballasted setup which ought only to be receiving only 6v. Proceed with confidence - there's no potential for doing any damage here. For myself I would * Check voltage at white wire to be 12v (i.e. not been messed around with by PO). White/yellow wire will only have volatge when engine cranking) • Check ohms across coil. If 1.5 ohm then install ballast resistor as a necessity. If 3.0 ohms the either a) leave as is, as a non-ballasted system or b) replace with correct coil and install ballast resistor. By a, modest, margin ballasted systems are better than non-ballasted. Somewhat better starting under cold cranking conditions and more reliable spark at high revs due to lower inductance. But it's not big a deal; there's plenty of pre 1970 cars run perfectly nicely on non-ballasted systems. P.S, If installing a BR the two wires need to be the right way round on the resistor otherwise the resistor will be bypassed and it'll be 12 v all the time.
  8. Previous help through the Forum got me in the right direction regarding ignition timing. With the car nearly ready to hit the road I trying to firm up on something a bit more precise. Additional 'advice' in the meantime (not TSSC) has been conflicting. Current situ': GT6 with 2500 'MM' prefix engine with the softest of the cams Lucas distributor (not sure which of the four) with accuspark Stromberg 150 CDSEs - from a 2000 - fitted unmodified and seem fine. Carb balance good, mixture roughly in the right place Engine starts, idles and revs nicely. Not driven yet. ROM says 8 or 10 degrees BTDC static for an MM engine. But I can't do static because the accuspark. So...I've tried 8 degrees BTDC with strobe on the supposition (? correct) that below 900rpm the centrifugal will be giving negligible advance and the dynamic advance will be the same as the static. From there if retard the ignition to say 6 degrees BTDC the idle revs drop off quite sharply. If I advance further to say 12 BTDC revs don't increase but the engine begins to fluff. So does that add up to 8 BTDC (dynamic, idle, vac off)) being about the spot to go for? My other supposition is that I can't really get optimum settings until it's on the road; perhaps using the vernier to tweak it up to the first point of pinking and then adjusting back from there. I'd really appreciate some reality checking here so thanks in advance. C
  9. Recently had a tailgate glass seal from Paddocks. Absolutely fine. It looks as though the outer face of the seal doesn't sit flat enough in the corners but checking against an unmnolested original that is in fact correct.
  10. Blind rivets ('pop rivets') are the appropriate fastener for this application. Threaded fasteners for the male part of the popper is perfectly feasible where there is easy access to both sides of the job. But for the doors trying to get nuts on the inside could entail hours of misery and bleeding knuckles. So, what isn't working? a) Blind rivets most commonly come in 1/32 inch diameter intervals measured in metric e.g. 2.4mm, 3.2mm 4.0mm. One size too small doesn't look like much of a difference in the hand but it's the difference between working and not working. I would not trust Rimmers to send the right size rivet. b) The rivet should be a loose interference fit or very slight clearance fit in the hole in the fixed part of the work (bodywork in this case). If the rivet is loose in the hole it will tend to pull through rather than pulling up tight. c) Poppers may have been drilled out a number of the times over the life of a vehicle and thus the holes have gone oversize. If the next size (diameter) up rivet can't be used as a substitute then options include i) use a rivet backing washer (readily available) on the inside of the fixed part where there is access. ii) use a peel or 'peeling' blind rivet where access is not possible: When compressed the shank deforms like the petals of a flower giving support around an otherwise oversize hole. Not so easy to get hold of but Spaldings do them. Screwfix do an very good mixed pack of 900 (plain) blind rivets for £15. Various diameters and lengths covering pretty much everything a Triumph owner could want. Cheers C
  11. Could I ask for some help with this simple inquiry? The task in hand is to refit the door cards and the drop glass winder handle. I've got the bits (handle, pin, escutcheon, conical spring and small circular foam seal) but can't deduce from the parts book the correct order/position of fitting. Does the spring go behind the door card and if so is it pointy end in or out? Similarly, where does the foamy seal fit in relation to everything else. Hardly a crucial matter but any tips to get this 'just so' would be much appreciated. Thanks Chris
  12. I imagine this has been well discussed previously. But here goes: While pondering whether to declare the Spitfire 1500 MOT exempt the MOT fell due. So I had it done. During the process of testing one rear brake showed inadequate braking and then a further push of the pedal locked the brake full on. Having got the car home the problems were self-evident; seized wheel cylinder and incorrectly fitted shoes. Duly fixed. The MOT was definitely worth it.
  13. Spitfire 1500 with single rail, overdrive, box. Possibly originally a Dolomite box. Issue is this: Box is making a fizzy/rumbly noise at idle which disappears when clutch is depressed. So I'm assuming likely cause is input shaft front bearing. Probably go for an exchange-recon box. Gearbox in and out no problem for me. But removing and replacing the o.d. unit is not something I've ever done. I messed up badly when replacing the o.d. on my GT6 and had give the whole assembly to a specialist to make good. Haynes makes the process sound easy peasy. But what in practice are the likely obstacles to trouble free removal and replacement? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thnx
  14. Leading the channel. What I did was: • Used a low melting point solder i.e. body solder • Break into crumbs, place in channel and melt in with torch until channel full to brim • Once cool (ish) bend to shape in the pre-formed..errr.. former. • Melt out solder into mash pot for future re-use • Channel now rusty, so dipped in hydrochloric acid, wash, then Jenolite. Painted a/r. I'll get that bit of of seal off to you, at least that's something definite to work from. Regs C
  15. Had a rootle around and here's some further info • The OE length of the seal was 35 inches as supplied. But the fitted length is shorter than that on later models • See photos: The seal is 1/4 inch at its root and 3/8th at base which makes the external width of the channel approx 7/16th. After much searching I eventually found some preformed channel from a Morris Minor which could then be adapted to GT6 purposes. It's the 'lower door seal retaining channel'. Can't remember who was the supplier though. To bend it to shape I made a curved jig then filled the channel with lead which allowed it to be bent without collapsing. Less good news on the rubber. I've only got enough for one length. But if one is better than nothing I could pop it in the post. Just let me know your details (via a message, not in the posting) and I'll do it. Hope this gets you a bit further forward. Cheers Chris
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