chrishawley

Correct: To confirm; the TBW would have been for battery sensing of voltage but not relevant any more for an ACR alternator that senses it's own voltage (machine sensing). Hopefully light will be an easy fix.

For a Euro style alternator it can be lookeed at this way: Only two wires are required; a heavy brown wire to take the power from the alternator to the battery (via the common post on the starter solenoid) and a thin wire to excite the fields on the alternator which should be a brown/yellow. Thus; to convert to Euro from standard battery sensing the heavy brown wire is connected to either of the large terminals in the new terminal block. It doesn't matter which since the two of them are common ('piggy back'): It's just that having two of (effectively) the same terminal gives a option to run a second heavy brown wire for high load situations (only rarely applicable) and the extra terminal gives a bit of extra grip of the terminal block in the alternator and thus more resistant to working loose (supposedly). The thinner brown/yellow wire will now be connected to the small termninal in the block. But a confirmatory test to prove the wiring has not undergone some modification in a pervious life is to, with the ignition on, briefly touch the brown/yellow down to any earth point and observe that the ignition warning light comes on as touched . If so, all is good. If not then pondering would be required. That should leave left over i) a short loop of brown/yellow on the existing small terminal - this has no function in the Euro system so discard. ii) The thin brown to the existing small connector now has now function but it will still have 12 volts on it. So cut and exposed copper short to the insulation, fold back on itself and insulate with insulating tape or heat shrink (HS is better). Tuck away anywhere handy. iii) If there is a black wire from the existing alternator to earth then discard. On the Euro arrangement the alternator is earthed through its body so no earth wire is required. Hopefully that fills in some of the details.

There are some very fine fillers which are one-pack, air drying (e.g BodyPro P980). Very useful for dealing with small defects or for surface correction - but maximum thickness on application is about 1 to 2mm so not really 'filler' as usually understood. So there's not really much of an alternative to 2k fillers for general purposes. The sometimes messy job of mixing is made easier with the use of a Filler Mixing Board ('Onion'). Very handy at around a tenner for 100 sheet pack (but not Halfords at £13 for a twenty sheet pack!!). Might help.

Service items readily available (Rimmers, Fitchetts, BiggRed, Paddocks for example). May be £15 or so for a set of piston seals and dust covers. But a question might be whether to replace the pistons themselves as a part of the job (but then more like £40 per caliper). The common scenario is that the chrome breaks down on the inner egde of the piston and it's this corrosion which causes seizure. A good situation is when (with the piston seal not yet fitted) the piston with drop nicely into the bore under gravity and go to the bottow with a satisfying 'doink'. If it doesn't there's a need for further scrutiny.

Diameter of car wheels still in inches.....

Might there be any clues from the history of the problem? Is this a problem which has appeared suddenly, developed over the course of time or been a constant factor following some other event (e.g. engine work, carb rebuild etc)? A per Pete's reply there's certainly a rather long list of potential diagnoses. Most of which are non-serious but can be effortful to track down. But to start somewhere I'd opt for simple inspections and measures first e.g. • Wires to/from coil: check good, not corroded or frail • Distributor: Inspect points (if applicable), rotor arm, distributor cap for defects. Check vacuum advance line is secure at distributor end and carburettor end. • Fuel line from pump to carbs: inspect for weeping or leaks • Carburettors; check dashpots have sufficient oil. Check all linkages, including choke mechanism, all operate and return smoothly. Lubricate in any case. Check heatshield between carbs and inlet manifold is present and intact. Check breather pipes from rocker cover to carbs are secure and free from even the tiniest splits or leaks. • Check fan. With engine OFF (of course!) spin fan with finger. if spins freely, without resistance, the viscous coupling may have failed. • Lastly, remove sparks plugs, check are correct specification for vehicle, observe condition and colour of each, check gap. Siimple inspections might be suggestive of diagnosis, if not then more in-depth measures could be needed.

I had exactly that, the morning of the Enfield Pageant. Select reverse, handbrake on, clutch pedal down, turn over for an instant on starter. 'Popped' on the second pulse. Everything just fine thereafter. Hope yours is as easy.

I guess many cars have run around gasketless with no adverse consequences. But they are a good idea for the reasons mentioned above. The relatively chunky gasket behind the striker plate can be a helpful part of getting the rear-of-door alignemnt right and getting a nice (fore-aft) position of the plate such that latching of the door catch is smooth and not all clunky/bangy. On my GT6 I needed a thick (e.g. 2mm) gasket and a bespoke aluminium shim (1.2mm) to get it just right. Gaskets on the hinge faces don't influence door alignment much; but a reasonably tough gasket (e.g. cornflake packet thickness) does a lot to help not damaging the paint during the often long-winded process of repeated door adjustment. As an aside; fitting up GT6 doors just-so can really be a trial because not only door the door itself has to be right but also the quarterlight and drop glass. It's not so much fitting the door as loving into position (?!)

My GT6 (150CDSEs, Facet Pump, conventional points) starts pretty much on the button even when cold or after layup. So such a thing is possible. Hard to point to, or lay claim to, any special factors; but pre-engaged starter, beefiest battery possible and trickle charging may help things along. Perhaps another thing for consideration is the precise relationship between the enrichment mechanism (whatever form that takes) and action on the butterflys; such that first movement of the choke cable gives a predominance of extra fuel over butterfly opening. Can be worth a look.

Thank you. If I've got this right the the Spit1500 has a more sharply recessed sump at the front with the drain plug at left rear as opposed to right front on the saloon. So sump pan required. Different manifolds on the Spit but they would be transfered off the outgoing engine anyway. The chart in the courier indicates that the FWD 1500 engine had larger inlet valves but the size was common on the RWD 1500 saloon with the Spit1500. But I'd be wondering whether there was any carry over of the larger valves on early YC engine but I suppose setting that one aside depends on having the head off and measuring. One further question: How about the front plate/engine mountings? The saloon engine I have has sort of cubic rubber blocks for the mountings rather the the spitfire type the with ears. Any insights into whether the front of the engine is different or whether it's just the rubber mounts that need to be change? Thanks again.

Just happened ot be reading a 1959 edition of Practical Motorist in the bath (I really need to get up to date with my periodicals). Anyhow, standard recommendation was to torque head on assembly and then hot at 500 miles.

I'm planning to build up a replacement engine for the Spitfire 1500. But the spare unit is YC (small saloom) rather than a Spitfire engine (FH) per se. Before I embark;are there any differences between YC and FH I need to take in to account? ?front plate/mountings, cam profile, valves, flywheel, mainfold etc etc. Any pointers to potential pitfalls would be much appreciated.

Out of curiosity I had a look at a 1500 head this afternoon. The 5 nuts in question are pretty inaccessible on any approach when the rocker assembly is in place. I couldn't picture any sound method of getting a wrench on the nuts which didn't involve removing the rocker assembly. I'd be inclined to stick with that.

Try KAWstore - it's a proper business not some micky mouse set up. https://www.kawstore.co.uk/products/kawplumb/collars-and-clips Or for stainless Jubilee clips try Westfield fasteners. I've been mugged off on Amazon that many times for this sort of thing that I don't even bother with it any more. A real brand Jubille clip is a joy unlike generic worm drive clips.

I note Paddoack have Payen gasket sets. Definitely worth just a few bob more for the pukkah thing.

Ditto above. I learnt the hard way that fitting the timing recover really does require removal of the water pump. WIth pump in situ it means that the TC has to be offered up at an angle which means that the lip of the seal tends to get nipped and damaged on the crankshaft nose (= leaks) . With pump removed, and TC offered up square, the tensioner can be hooked over the chain with minimal force with any suitable right angled implement. Yup, and if it goes on it's right: If it doesn't go on it's wrong. P.S. Once fitted in place be gentle with the bolts and setscrews. Oh so easy to strip thread.

Short answer if that I've no idea.. but maybe a couple of guesses might stimulate the thinking process. I suppose a clue to the fore-aft location of the body on the chassis is to look at the relationship between the the bracket on the scuttle to the chassis outrigger. As far as I can see from your photo' that relationship can't be terribly wrong. That said, when I did my GT6 (v.extensive welded repairs) I did find I had to rework the front outer mounting points (through the tubes) to get the shell far enough back. I've no direct experience with trunionless but the v.links don't leap out as a prime candidate for problems. But what about the chassis brackets for the wishbone? It is possible for these to be transposed if removed duration restoration. Rear is illustrated as below. Having never done them transposed myself I'm guessing about how it would affect things. I suppose while checking those an inspection of the chassis rails would be in order. Tyres? Not really. 170/70r13 is a common option. Sure, they're about a inch wider than 155/80s so may reduce clearance around the wheel arch but can't be a major factor here. There's a couple of thoughts. Perhaps others can improve on those thoughts.

Just to embellish the above: The definitive soloution is to machine, drill and tap such that a BSP-parallel hose tail can be inserted. I think that's 1/2 inch BSP but would have to check. The earlier variations of this manifold (e.g. Vitesse) did indeed have such an arrangement but GT6 Mk3s got the cast-in pipe. Once done it'll last forever. However not a very easy thing to do on a DIY basis. If considering replacement then one has to make sure that it's exactly the right unit - not a superficially similar looking from another six pot. But one also bumps up against the issue at the other end of the manifold where the BSP/banjo union is typically seized solid and only destructive removal is possible. The threads may survive to be cleaned up with a tap, or may not. Looking at the photos it does look a bit like the inlet pipe is on it's last legs and attention sooner rather than later woul be good.

Possibly worth giving Fitchetts a try: TD Fitchett, Redland Industrial Estate, Telford, Shropshire TF2 9JX. Phone: 01952 620434 On eBay they are advertising some of the relevant panels and saying these are 'OE' but the pics look far too shiny to be real NOS. My own inclination would to be weld an upstanding lip to the panel already known to be an acceptable fit. Adding a lip by welding is quite a commonplace thing to do where folding is not possible although, admittedly, doing this around the perimeter of a whole arch is laborious. The ins-and-outs of doing this are very iny-and-outy but broadly speaking with a moderate level of operator skill (at MIG or TIg) a sound and aestheically satisfactory result can be achieved. I could add more detail if helpful.

I've never seen the particular type of (soft) fibreboard sold as a raw material. Nearest I can bring to mind is a thin millboard (e.g. from Martrim) but that might be too ridgid as the RH box has to be conformable to sit over the steering column and heater ducting and to be able to fold. Paddocks have the glove boxes at very reasonable prices - so might be worth considering where time v. effort is concerned. https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parcel-tray-rh-rhd-mk11-111-2

Here's some thoughts, not that I have in-depth knowledge in this area. Seems perfectly reasonable to experiment with upper spring spacers. But how much spacing can be added at the top is influencecd by the length of the three studs which secure the (upper) pan. SIgnificantly more that 3/8th inch spacing could dictate the spacers are fitted at the bottom, between the spring and the pan on the shock. AFAIK there was never an manufacturers definition of ride height for Spit/GT6. But I've deduced that 600 - 605mm (arch lip to floor) is possibly 'about right' as is a 'palm test': i.e. on the four corners the ability to slide in a flattened palm between the top of the tyre and the lip is also 'about right". I'd concur that back in the day Spits/GT6s commonly had a 'tippy toe' look. Did the snagging come on after fitting a trunionless kit? As regards tyres (and at risk of stating the obvious!): Although a 175/70r13 has a diameter little different from 155/80r13 it's nonethless the best part of a inch wider. Perhaps worth adding to the considerations. For myself I'd probably not get too particular in ride heights (as measured by lip to ground) being a gnats difference from one side to the other. Sure, have to be reasonably level but there are variances in where the body tub and bonnet sit in relation to the chassis that the lips of the arches can't really be taken as datum points. I'm interested to know how your further investigations and (hopefully) remedies proceed.

Wonder if the attached diagram might provide some illumination. Assuming you currently have an ACR series alternator then the pin-outs would be one of the three illustrated. I hadn't noticed before that while the ACR standard connections had an earth lead to earth the Euro connection didn't. So (obviously) if using a Euro connector the earth would not be used.

Not used those particular ones but have done a couple of sets using the kit from ParkLane. My experience is that it's not so easy as the Ads crack it up to be. The biggest challenge is dealing with the gather in the covering on curves and at the end of the end of the pieces. Even with vinyl (that I used) there was only just enough stretch to work out the gather for an acceptable appearance. I'd possibly add a note of caution about anything with added stitching - doubly so if in a contrast colour: A decorative line that doesn't run true makes itself very obvious to the eye.

It all depends! 'Spect experiences will vary but here's mine: I've done some adhesive repairs sucessfully where welding was uneconomical. In particular 'top hat' reinforcing sections on the side of a panel van. Has held up for 3 years ok. But the following conditions applied: a) large contact area between the pieces, b) possible to get absolute cleanliness of the metal of both surfaces, c) possible to get contigous, even, contact between the surfaces, d) in an area ammenable to stable clamping and e) area not subject to peel stresses. Later I tried an adhesive repair to a localised area of a door skin/lip. Totally unsuccessful. It was just an ill-fitting, poorly attached, mess. In a an economy situation it would have been better to do it old skool e.g. tack weld the repair section, drive the surface down with a pointy hammer, skim with filler and hope for the best. I also notcied that the glued repair couldn't withstand any dressing with hammer and dolly such as is necessary to take down high spots or suchlike. That's just my expereince. I wonder what others may have found.

Don't think so. There's the GT6 M1, 2 & 3 and Vitesse 2-litre manual (third issue): ISBN 0 907073 90 5. It has the supplement which covers roto and non-roto Mk3 GT6s but it's pretty scant on detail about a lot of things. AFAIK that's the best there is.