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chrishawley

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Everything posted by chrishawley

  1. A couple of thoughts of a 'first aid' nature. • With air filters removed crank engine and observe for fuel swimming about in throat of carb(s) or leaking from face of carb. If so, implies needle valves failing to close. • Breather as mentioned above by PL. Or, if you have breathers directly from rocker cover to carbs then inspect closely for splits which may be be obvious on casual observation. • With choke knob pulled well out crank engine and observe for droplets of fuel passing from the cold start mechanism (front carb) to the rear carb down the transparent transfer pipe. If transparent pipe has been replaced with opaque rubber then do the same but promptly remopve the pipe and see if moist with petrol inside. If no transfer of fuel then implies failed cold start unit. Usually repairable but don't disassemble unless replacement gaskets are to hand. • . Remove dampers. Lift air pistons with finger. Confirm free movement upward and when released a free fall with a definite 'dunkk' as it hits the bridge. Replace dampers confirming that there is sufficient oil. • Blank off the air feeds to temperature compensators (upper right hole on face of carbs). Masking tape will do. If then starts implies markedly deteriorated TCs. • If you want to go a bit further then remove the dash pot covers (4 set screws). Then lift out the piston to which the rubber diaphragm is attached. ***But note precisely the orientation of the assembly - it has to go back exactly where it came out**). Hole units up to light an observe for decay or holes in the rubber. And for your situation it's perfectly reasonable to try starting the engine after a liberal dose of EasyStart (halfords have it) directly into the carbs. Not a fix of course but can get a non-movable car at least...err...moving. Obviously a comprehensive diagnostic is more involved than the above but maybe a 'first aid' step will be informative. Here's hopin' it's simple!
  2. I'll comment cautiously since I'm not 100% sure of the details off the top of my head and happy to be corrected by other members if need be. If the carbs have managed to retain their original brass identification plates (small squares attached under one of the four screws of the top cover) then that can provide identification: 3092 would be CD150, 3507 would be 150CDSEV. Some numbers for CDSE are 3432, 3426, 3335, 3384, 3369, 3172. However, the brass tabs may be missing or sometimes incorrect if they've been jumbled up when previous repairs were made. So not 100%, but a clue. 150CD are distinguished by - hexagonal brass adjuster for jet under the float chamber and 'Thames Barrier' type choke (cold start) mechanism acting on both carbs by lifting pistons. CDS/CD2S - in the most these retain the hexagonal brass adjuster, have the external disc-type choke on the front unit (only) but do not have the tempature compensators. CDSE/CDSEV: Hex adjuster not present, just a plastic blanking plug in bottom of float chamber, have the external disc-type choke on the front unit (only) and mixture adjustment is from above using a special tool. Temperature compensators present on both front and rear units. I think that the CDSEV had an additional valve relieving the float chamber but since I've never owned any 'SEVs I can't back that up with direct experience. I suppose it's possible (???) that a GT6 could acquire 150CD3 carbs transplanted from another vehicle but I've no direct experience of that either. Maybe worth reffering to to see if that corroborates what I've said above.
  3. It might be worth a check that the sump is not resting on the steering rack which might imply sagging of the left rubber engine mounting. The clearance between the rebate in the sump and the SR is ordinarily slender and can only diminish in service. That excluded: The official Triumph method for removing the left SR bracket was: Take weight on engine on hoist, undo and remove two bolts securing left engine mounting to turret, raise engine sufficient that SR bracket can be removed. If no hoist then jacking the engine would have to do; but with great caution about where lift is applied (e.g. not in the middle of the sump pan (etc)).
  4. If it's just the tub internals (including sills) then I'd make an estimate of 3 off of 500ml can, taking Dinitrol ML as an example. Doors only need a gnats since once the seams are soaked the door skin itself only needs a waft. A-post similarly. Wings/rear quartersback of b-posts maybe half a can each side max. Sills can use up a quite lot in getting both sides of the sill stiffener because of working blind so having to be generous in the application. In ordinary use there's not much to worry about fire wise. But subsequent application of a welding torch or naked flame is dangerous. I've had 25 year old Waxoyl go into 'slow burn' inside enclosed sections when welding - not easy to put out. Worth being mindful of the potential for waxes to create problems with subsequent painting either by local creep (e.g. sill seams) or spread by aerosol. It does not wipe off at all easily even with proper degreasant.
  5. 'Risk of fire' it said on my latest tub of filler. Naah...got to be Health and Safety gone mad! Humble pie duly eaten when given a demonstration...........
  6. In principle simple. It is the eye of the split pin itself which is pushed onto the lock lever on the latch mechanism. Appropriate adjustment of the locking function is then made by slding the split pin up or down in its sprung clip. When correctly adjusted the eye of the split pin is retained on the locking lever by pushing on a tightly fitting starlock washer (but a e-clip will do or even an internally toothed shakeproof washer). The un-simple aspect is when the split pin of the supplied unit does not have a big enough eye. For this situation first port of call is to see if a better pin can be scavenged from the former units.
  7. Not quite as problematic as the frame itself can be, but probably a good idea nonetheless. I think original seals are very scarce so it might be a case of of adapting an appropraite 'generic' seal (e.g. from COH Baines).
  8. Yup, 4 holes 'tis meant to be. But it's commonplace that the nub of a blind rivet gets left behind when the QLs are being removed. Touch will a drill and it'll be gone. It's well worth doing a trial fitment of the QLs early in the restoration process lest the holes be misaligned or have become oversized. There's quite a knack to fitting the QLs such that the adjacent paint doesn't get chipped so a practice session 'in the rough' can be worthwhile.
  9. Getting optimal adjustment of Spitfire (and GT6) doors can be a wearisome undertaking! Something it took me a while to grasp was this: That the door latch and striker should not be ‘holding the door up’ when in the closed position. Or to put it another way: the position of the striker plate should be adjusted such that it conforms with an already nicely adjusted door. Or a third way of putting it is: the latch should slide into the jaws of the striker, when closing, such that it barely makes contact with the upper or lower faces; closing would then be nice and light under just gentle palm pressure. But how does one get an ‘already nicely adjusted door’? (Of the bit we are talking about). This process is a possibility…. • Shut the door in the condition as it stands. Slightly open the door and estimate by how much it drops as the weight is taken off the striker. About 1/4 inch is common. Slacken the three setscrews fixing the striker and raise it by roughly the amount of drop that was observed above. Slightly relieve the (6) screws holding the hinges to the side scuttle. Close door. It will be too high at the back and that is correct. Tighten the 6 hinge screws firmly and open door. Remove striker (entirely). Now, with striker removed, push the door to closed position (gently) and observe the alignment. If good, proceed to below. If incorrect then repeat above steps. Once the door in a ‘free floating’ condition (i.e no striker fitted) aligns well then the striker is refitted. This is trial and error and may require repeated resetting of the up/down and in/out position so that the latch just sits into the striker nicely. The above is only a part of the whole door alignment conundrum but I hope it’s relevant to the circumstances you describe.
  10. I wonder if either of the attached files might be helpful. Best of all is the Haynes guide to Strombergs but expect ot pay £30 - £40 on eBay for a clean copy. One of the files should have an appendix giving a definitive statement about the presence, or not, of the spring. Stromberg 150 CD.pdf Tuning_Stromberg_CD_Carburetters.pdf
  11. Choke operation could be a beneficial line of investigation. Badly set up enrichment can greatly hamper cold-starting. But it's a matter that's rather skimped over in both Haynes and the Ops. Manual. With HS4s (for example) it's possible to have a situation where the choke linkages have an unequal action on lowering the jets - thus impairing enrichment. 'Equal' is not a precise measurement, visual inspection will do. Similarly the action of the choke linkage on the butterflies may be unequal, premature/excessive, or both: Too much extra air, determined mostly by the fast idle screws, can nullify the effect of extra fuel from lowering the jets. The choke cable, and it's attachment at it's trunion on the rear carb, itself can warrant examination/correction : Such that the cable overall itself is neither too tight nor too slack and gives a smooth, full, range of movement. Well worth a look.
  12. Errrr...I'm sure I have to be wrong about this but..... For a pre 1986 car isn't 4.5% CO(monoxide) a pass? Pre-1975 is just visual inspection, 1975 to 1986 is 4.5% and 3.5% applies to post 1986 up to CATs. I think. Maybe. Can anyone confirm/deny the above?
  13. Yup, just demo photos', suitably staged to provide a view of hand position. So happens, it's a mate's project and is a lower front door repair section on a T2 camper which has gone pretty pear-shaped. The repair section was not well pressed, copious wax on the inside of the parent metal and after the first few tack welds the joddled edge recieved a liberal shooshing with primer. Theory meets reality!!! But returning to positioning; I suppose a related matter is the distance of the shroud off the work and how tight up for for different circumstances. It's been suggested to me that for thin metal the correct distance is with the shroud actually resting on the work. Hmm, not so sure about that. Then there's the 'spot weld' shrouds. Helpful/not helpful? All very subjective, but most helpful to exchange some thoughts.
  14. For the chapter and verse on this see; https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-1-2 But (in the absence of special test equipment) it adds up to the same as Non-Member's method as above.
  15. Just a couple of ideas here, hopefully to compare with the experiences of others. Basic question. How does one hold a MIG torch under various situations? Image #1 is what I'd call the Darth Vader/Light Sabre grip. Commonly illustrated in various materials but can't see that it ever provides stable control of the tip. Image #2 is what I've found myself adopting for use on thinner materials (0.8 - 2.0 mm). That's with the shroud itself supported on the non-dominant hand or even using a crooked finger around the shroud and with that hand secured on a fixed point. Assumes proper quilted MIG gloves and not mechanics gloves as in photos'. But then there's cicumstances where restricted space dictates single handed welding. I've struggled with this but recently happened upon a 'Britain Needs You' grip. With the index finger lying along the shroud and the switch is operated with the little finger. (image #3). At least provides some directional control. That's just some ideas, for better or worse. Any other, different or better, ideas?
  16. As I recall the other pully got dropped and chipped the edge (moi!). Having done this a couple of times previous I've learnt the hard way to pull pulleys off rather than lever off from behind.
  17. Here's mine. Fitted such that the studs for the rubber mounting fall rearwards of the divider. Am I 100% sure that's correct. Nope! But the engine fits ok. Left and right on a vehicle are always defined in terms of what is L or R for the driver sitting in the drivers seat. As an aside: If putting 2.5 engine in a GT6 do you have the a suitable sump pan sorted out? Unmoded parts won't fit.
  18. chrishawley

    Compressor

    Currently £23 cheaper on ebay. But more to the point...that's an amazing spec. for the price point. How so? SGS are fine for what they are, but occupy a niche at the economy end of the market. So don't expect much in terms of durability or longevity and service/repair items are likely to be non-existent. Neither, I am told, are they that good at honouring warranties. I tend to regard all SGS products as 'consumables' rather than 'durables'. In dishwasher terms SGS are 'Beko' rather than 'Miele'.
  19. Ah! Strombergs! The carb with the learning curve! I'm trying to get an idea as to how an 'ever rotating' allen key could occur. One possibility is that the needle (top right in photo) is not screwed on to its carrier (top left). The carrier has a little o-ring round it(bottom left) and the carrier sits up the piston against the toothy washer. Not it the picture is the grub screw on the side of the piston. This grub is not to lock the needle in position but rather to act lightly on the groove on the needle to prevent it from rotating when adjustment is being undertaken. If the adjustment is taken too far in an anticlockise direction it is possible for the needle to run off the thread of the carrier and the carrier can then rotate ineffectually. Well, that's my theory! Could be worth taking the pistons out, remove the grub screw and, using the adjustment tool, check the the needle in engaged with the carrier.
  20. Just for my own education: If a Spit has PDWA, does that necessitate a special type of oil pressure switch rather than the standard single terminal one?
  21. This could be rather repeating what has been said above....but here goes... The orientation of the shoes is an interesting matter. Reffering to the WSM and Haynes they in accordance as to which way up the shoes should go. But it's sort of impossible to fit the front shoe incorrectly because the cut out from the lever for the handbrake has to be at the top. Note that the drawing in the WSM, although unlabelled, refers to the left hand unit. Then there's the matter of 'unisex' shoes - those where the friction lining is cut away equally at both ends. Had some from Fitchetts and questioned them about it. They said 'it's fine'. So I fitted them and they were indeed fine. If the brakes are rubbing periodically on each rotation and always in the same position(s) that does rather point to the drum being slighty out of round. But if only one side is problematic then a diagnostic test might be to swap the drums over: If the rub transfers with the drum (once adjusted up) then that would be even more suggestive.
  22. Comma Coldmaster (as above) is a safe bet.
  23. Thanks. Nearest approximation to the internal diameter of the thread ≈ 2.5 mm. Would kind of put is close to no.4 unf/c or (arrrghh) 7BA!!! Guess I'm being lazy, really. I suppose the practical thing is to remove the mechanism from the car a resize the hole to M3 coarse.
  24. Here's a hard one. One some vehicles the ignition switch is held in the lock barrel (Waso or Britax type) by a tiny screw. In effect a grub screw 'cept Phillips headed - just enough to nip the switch in place. Mine's gone missing. Any clues on what thread/size it might be? Offering up what I had to hand it's <3mm and <no6 unf. Suggestions?
  25. Disclaimer: I'm no expert on screen fitting. My track record on GT6s is 1 screen badly fitted, 1 screen well fitted, 2 screens broken. Less than 50% success rate! I thought I'd have a look at what was originally said in the Ops. Manual. It says to fit the weatherstrip to the glass with a continuous bead of Seelastik. Then the finishers are inserted and locked in place by inserting the two center pieces. Cord then inserted in outer channel of weatherstrip and assembly offered up to vehicle. And this is with reference to the earlier narrow finishers and perhaps it is a fair inference that with the later (Mk111) wide finisher it's even more relevant that it has to be fitted to the weatherstrip before the assembly is offered up the the car. I think I can see Triumphs' logic here which is (possibly) that, in order not to 'pocket' at the corners the rigidity of the glass and the trim have to dictate the position of the rubber rather than the rubber trying to dictate the position of the glass. Maybe. Possibly. But what was Seelastik? Never encountered it although it was a widely used product at the time used for all sorts of galzing inlcuding greenhouses. Maybe as well as being 'seel' it had a lot of 'stik' as well. Anyone know? Not sure the above offers any solutions but maybe stimulate further thoughts or discussion.
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