chrishawley

Disclaimer: I'm no expert on screen fitting. My track record on GT6s is 1 screen badly fitted, 1 screen well fitted, 2 screens broken. Less than 50% success rate! I thought I'd have a look at what was originally said in the Ops. Manual. It says to fit the weatherstrip to the glass with a continuous bead of Seelastik. Then the finishers are inserted and locked in place by inserting the two center pieces. Cord then inserted in outer channel of weatherstrip and assembly offered up to vehicle. And this is with reference to the earlier narrow finishers and perhaps it is a fair inference that with the later (Mk111) wide finisher it's even more relevant that it has to be fitted to the weatherstrip before the assembly is offered up the the car. I think I can see Triumphs' logic here which is (possibly) that, in order not to 'pocket' at the corners the rigidity of the glass and the trim have to dictate the position of the rubber rather than the rubber trying to dictate the position of the glass. Maybe. Possibly. But what was Seelastik? Never encountered it although it was a widely used product at the time used for all sorts of galzing inlcuding greenhouses. Maybe as well as being 'seel' it had a lot of 'stik' as well. Anyone know? Not sure the above offers any solutions but maybe stimulate further thoughts or discussion.

This particular issue will not be related to fuel leak problems (at least not in any direct way) but needs to be tackled. So this prob for now and back to leaks later. And not forgetting clutch. Removing the suction chamber cover doesn't involve any delicate operations so I'd suggested a procedure as follows. And can be done without removing carburettor from the vehicle. • Remove damper and set aside • Mark the cover such that it can be replaced the same way it came off • Undo the four retaining screws one turn only. The cover should now be ever-so-slightly loose so give it a wiggle. • Now try to raise the piston while, if necessary, wiggling the cover. If a position can be found that allows free upward movement and drop then that is a good sign. But in any case proceeed to..... • Remove the four screws entirely. Lift off cover. Observe that return spring is present (and not mangled) and remove. Observe condition of rubber diaphram (intact, not flakey, soft and mobile). On the perimeter of the diaphragm is is locating pip which sits in a rebate in the body of the carb ('photo). Observe that this is seated correctly. • Gently lift piston from body of carb and inspect. Check needle (biased needle, springy to the touch). Check upper part of pistion for burrs or damage. • Clean up assidusouly but aim to keep diaphragm dry. Do not soak. Petrol or WD40 is ok for cleaning but not thinners. • Now check that upper part of piston runs freely up and down in dash pot cover with spring in place. A little light oil is permissible. Initially may be a tadge 'sticky' but will free with movement but if any force at all is required that would imply a damaged unit that may or may not be remediable. • Reassemble noting the crucial position of the pip in the rebate. But when tightening the four screws only very lightly nip first of all then repeat the 'wiggle' (as above) to find the best seating for the cover such that the piston moves freely. Tighten up screws incrementally repeatedly checking free movement of piston. If that does not work there are still other possibilities and much might depend on what PO did or didn't do.

To take carbs : I'm assuming your carbs are Stromberg 150CDSE and not CD150. 150CDSEs have a distinctive but useless yellow bit on the side purporting to be a tempaerature compensator (as per photo). There are three common ways for the underside to be wetted with petrol (the normal condition is dry as a bone): 1) Rubber O-rings on the plastic plug in the base of the float chamber have expired. Fuel drains out gradually. More likely to contribute to poor starting than to affect running. Easy DIY fix. Extract plug(s) replace o-ring, refit. 2) Carb is flooding with petrol swimming about in the throat of the carb which can be seen when air filter box is removed. Will spill out and run down the carb. Running will be poor due to uncontrolled, over-rich, mixture. Single most common reason is failure/obstructed closing of the needle valve (but there are other causes as well). Easy, inexpensive, fix not requiring too much know how. 3) Petrol leakage from the starting enrichment mechanism ('choke' but it's not really a choke) on the front carb. Requires careful inspection with engine running to see that it is localised in this way. May or may not affect the running condition. Tricky to fix, not always succesful and some relevant spares unavailable. Well, that's not every possible cause of fuel leakage but it's the common ones - either singly or in combination.

If you've not already made a purchase might be worth checking out Park Lane and/or Newton Commercial. Two types of grain for vinyl on Spitfires (fine and coarse) and either of the aforementioned sellers can provide material which is pretty true to the original. I've purchased from both and results have been good.

Any factor to check: If it's late type Strombergs (e.g. CDSE) worth checking for fuel weepage from the plastic plug(s) in the bottom of the float chamber. Not easily spotted unless one goes looking for it. New o-rings will cure.

Did ceramic on one of mine - more out of curiosity than expectation. No real world benefit on heat. Comestically looked lovely for a bit, but after a few hundred miles the appearance reverted to 'standard manifold'. Done by a high end specialist not some micky mouse outfit. Wouldn't bother again.

I don't use YT so can't comment directly but to get the ball rolling on some replies ot your question here's some initial thoughts - but I'm working from memory here so please don't take anything as chapter and verse. I'm not sure I'm grasping the advantage of trying to measure camshaft position directly off the lobes as opposed to using the standard method as per the Repair Operation Manual. I think I maybe correct in saying that on at least some 2500 engine the cam lobes are assymmetrical but don't have any more detail on that. The ROM method can be summarised as follows: • On assembly the flywheel should have been marked up with datum marks for TDC on 1 and 6 with TDC determined by dial gauge. • Once head and valve train are on: Set all valves to standard clearance except 11 and 12 which are set wide (say 50 thou, but exactly equal) • Set crank to TDC • Rotate cam untill valve 12 (exhaust) is just closing and 11 (inlet) is just opening. • Find the cam position such that, with a feeler gauge, clearance 11 = clearance 12. • Assemble timing chain using one the four available sprocket positions which provides the closest fit and with slack on the tensioner side. • Rotate engine a couple of times and check. If ok set the proper clearances on 11 an 12. • Score alignment marks across both sprockets to aid future reassembly. I think that method answers the question how accurate the crank-cam relation can be: The greatest accuracy is the limit that the camshaft sprocket allows in it's 'best' position. What I don't know is how that procedure has to be tweaked for an asymmetical camshaft. I'm happy for the above to be corroborated or contradicted by other memberrs - this is from memory only.

If exhuast is the diagnosis then it may not necessarily entail a whole new system so could be worth penny watching if only the back box or the middle pipe needed replacing. But on a Spit 1500 it is very useful to check the joint at the exhaust manifold to downpipe. This is very prone to fail; particularly if the bracket which ties the down pipe to the gearbox bell housing has become absent - as is commonly the case. If it's this joint then £££s have been saved!

Nothing too hard about brushes, if you bypass the procedures of measuring exposed length and spring force and Just Replace the Things. Did two units this morning in 10 mins total. Once end cover is removed then it's simply two self tappers holding a brush. Perhaps only point for error is to make sure any wires are connected back to their original positions. Brushes doesn't cure everything - but for a fiver or so it can be well worth a punt.

Overdrive became erratic on way back from Duxford and then failed completely. Nuts. But on the basis of check the simple/cheap things first 'twas only the 6RA. Thought I'd share the picture of just how fried a relay can get. Don't think there's any titivating that back into service!!

Here's a couple of thoughts that might assist with adusting Spit/GT6 doors: • It helps if the hinge pins aren't worn. If decidely floppy then replacemement can help. • If remanufactured hinges have been employed then such may be thicker than the originals with the holes not quite in the right place. Skinnying the body of the hinge or filing out the holes may give a more appropriate range of free movement. • Examine where the trailing edge of the front wings (bonnet/front end) fall. The appearance of the door fit is influenced by the bonnet position which itself might need correction. • The natural tendency of the door is to drop as one tries to tighten the bolts. A wheeze is to deliberately set the striker plate too high (e.g. by an 1/8th inch maybe) and then close the door. There can be a point where the excess lift induced by the plate equals the amount of drop when the door is free (having reajusted striker) • Similarly the striker can be used to persuade the door forwards. In standard fitment the striker plate may have had 0, 1 or 2 carboard shims behind it for fine adjustment. But during alignement it's possible to add excess shims (aluminium ideal but cornflake packet will do). Shutting the door then shoves it forward allowing nipping up the bolts with the door in a more forward position. • As a rider to the above: in final fitment the position of the striker has to be adjusted to the fall of the door as opposed to adjusting the door to the position of the striker. • Rotation of the door along its axis is, in principle, controlled by the hinge plates on the door shell. But to get the full range of movement required for adjustment a sharp blow with the palm of the hand may be required in either the uppper or lower location. If rotational adjustment is nonetheless insufficient adding a shim to the scuttle side of the hinges maybe helpful. • Lastly, with a 'difficult' door masking tape can help as follows: With the door in a provisional position put strips of masking tape close around the three sides of the hinge and draw around with a pencil. Doesn't solve anything itself but means that it possible to keep track of how subsequent changes are affecting the hinge position. In theory all the gaps should be 5/32 to 3/16 inch but measuring is not very fruitful: more as case of 'it's right when it looks right'. Any help?

Yup, a section of fine bore steel tube over the mandel of the rivet works well. Or if tube not to hand then a stack of small washers (e.g. M3) achieves the same result of spacing the flange of the rivet away from the nose of the gun.

I titivated one of these back into action the other day on an XJ6. It's really hard to describe in words but careful examination (off the car) will show how the contacts make and break - and then some persistence with an acidic contact cleaner can get things going again. Multimeter with buzzer for continuity handy for this. Or: Try Moss UK for switch for E-type, which is generally similar. Look for part C16367. Had some a while back for about a tenner.

The naunce is in the word 'requires': There is no necessity to use a relay with standard 60/55w H4 halogens. I've done several straight swaps substituting H4 for sealed beam units and the results have been more than adequate for a general amount of night time driving. It is optimal to have a relay for maximum illumination and longevity of the bulb, but it's not a prerequisite. A question is whether all four elements (two main , two dip,) have all stopped functioning simultaneously or whether they've been going one by one over the course of time. If the former, it implies a a fault in the circuit needing a remedy. If a bit of titivating of the bullet connectors (as mentioned above) doen't give results it might be as easy as anything else to extract the beam units and test them by direct connection to a battery, to confirm operation, before digging deeper into the circuitry.

On the subject of 3M DP490...... I've got a situation of needing to let in a full length door skin lower repair section. Usually I'd weld, but in this particular case (for various reasons) it has to be an adhesive bond. Has half inch joddled step with a good fit. Question is choice of adhesive. I've tried various products on test pieces (C-Tec, Q-max, 1k PU adhesive, for example). Best, thus far, is ordinary EvoStik Epoxy Rapid. Might DP490 offer even greater strength? But might I just be paying ££s more for only a marginal gain (in this particular situatiuon)? Any ideas or experiences?

Try Newton Commercial. 01728 832880. Good chance they'll have something suitable.

Ooops! I got it in my head that it was a Spitfire MkIV. Aplogies therefore that some some of the info will be off the mark.

It's perhaps worth thinking about the current pathways that might be related to this problem The dash light switch is fed via a brown wire from the starter solenoid. The red/green wire from the switch feeds forward to the fuse box and from there to side lights, number plate lights and instrument illumination lights. The blue from the switch feeds forward to the light switch on the steering column and thence to main or dip beams. Note that the headlamp circuit does not incorporate a fuse: Thus a dead short on 'red/green' would likely blow the relevant fuse quickly (assuming that short were at or after the fuse box). Whereas a short on 'blue' has nothing to stop it drawing down a heavy current. Cooking the brown feed to the switch requires a hefty current. Changing from a sealed beam to a standard 60/55w halogen wouldn't cause a significant change in current draw. I can't see the alternator being implicated unless, exceptionally, it's gone over voltage. But that's easily excluded - voltmeter across the battery terminal with engine running; anything less than 14.5v ok (in this context). For myself I'd place emphasis on getting a positive diagnosis of a significant problem, more than employing workarounds. An initial diagnostic might be as follows: a) Remove headlamp bulbs. Disconnect dash light switch. Connect 'brown' to 'blue' through any suitable low wattage bulb (a front side light bulb will do for example). Switch between dip and main on the column switch. If (in either position) the bulb lights, however faintly, then a short is proved. b) Similarly remove all bulbs off 'red/green' (a fiddle where instrument illumination lights are concerned - 4 off). Employ test bulb as before between brown and red/green. Again any illumination shows short circuit. As mentioned in previous posts, a failing switch may arc, causing sparks, smoke and heat. Diagnosis is by substitution. But a test could be made by connecting borwn, blue and red/green together with a fly lead and then progressive reinstating all the bulbs, vigilently observing/feeling for overheating as one goes. If the circuits pass this test then diagnosis = switch. Some other thoughts might be; i) A hot spot for shorts in the headlamp circuit is where the wires run up the steering column to the switch. Can easily get nipped and create a partial or intermittent short. ii) Does your vehicle still have a night dimming relay? The correct connections of this unit can be less than obvious. Or, if it's been removed/bypasssed then this has been done not leaving uninsultated terminals floating about. iii) To check that main and dip beams are independent of each other and don't come on together. It is possible to get them connected in common which would impose greatly excessive current on the system.

Which seals are the ones in question? Is the waist seals, inner and outer, on the doors?

Try Moss. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/bracket-hose-to-pipe-rh-stainless-steel-132365ss.html They are of course handed left and right. And not necessarily universal across vehicles e.g. GT6 pipe support brackets are different to Spitfire ones as the orientation of the rigid brake pipe is different. So relevant ot check, depending on your vehicle, that you will get something with the right orienatation.

A most tricky matter - so please regeard any comments I make as 'thoughts' rather than 'authoritative advice'. If the current alignment of bonnet, bumper, overriders, quarter valances (etc) were good or very good then I incline to preserve as much of the existing structure as possible. Even 'preserving' means excising the hinge boxes, making repairs on the bench, and rewelding, for example. But if the existing alignment is poor, perhaps due to previous repairs or impact damage, then the first step is to be able to define what is causing the poor alignment. If new components are to be welded in position that has to based on what corrections need to be made. The area under the ARB bracket will commonly ammenable to easy local repair - although if the inside of the rails are heavily waxed that can be a problem for a welder. The gussets (bits at the side) are not problematic since they strengthen the front end structure but don't contribute importantly to alignment. But the positioning of the hinge boxes and crossmember requires great precision. A lot depends on the prior experience of the person doing the repair. Nor can one expect reproduction hinge units and crossmemebers to 'fit from the box'. I can't remember the last time I had a repro repair section that didn't require corrective work prior to fitting. Getting it wrong can be cheap: Getting it right can be £££s. Properly done it involves initial positioning with tack welds, rivets (or whatever) then performing a full trial assembly of all the items (bonnet, bumpers, overriders, Q.valances, grill etc) and only making definitive welds once good alignment is proved. Optimal alignent can involve additional steps such as shimming, moving the location of holes where there are bolts and cutting and rewelding the bonnet hinge tubes. Of great importance is not to proceed to painting the vehicle without having seen for oneself that the panel alignment is up to one's expectations based upon a full fit up. I've had a situation of painting a GT6 then finding the overriders didn't fit. Not a good moment! Hope that at least gives you some thoughts about how to proceed.

Getting a 'dead cold' engine started can be a bit circular: A nice clean start requires correct carb air balance and correct mixture (among other things)- but adjusting these require an engine to be running! Regarding static timing: Do you have the Ops. Manual? If so, it's nicely set out in section 86.35.15. Fuel: just to get the engine running minimal fuel is need. Suggest: disconnect fuel to rear carb, crank engine on starter for a few turns, each turn should deliver a spurt about one desert spoonful. That's enough. Jam jar useful. Perhaps the main issue is that a dead cold engine is very unlikely to start without generous enrichment from the choke mechanism. I'd hazard a guess once the choke is operative the engine will be more cooperative. The choke works best when finely balanced between the carbs. But that has to be done after the mixture, air balance and idle has been sorted. A starting position is to check that as the choke knob is pulled it lowers the jets on each carb by a roughly equal amount. In getting a dead cold engine into a initial running condition a can of Bradex Easy Start can be an asset.

Possibly many opinions in this respect: But, for myself, if the engine is just doing general roadgoing duty, I'd skim only the miniumum required to correct any defects - whatever the engineer determines that to be. My reasoning behind that is an analysis from the early 1970s which indicated that whatever performance mods were made to the small triumph engine it was generally only in the upper rev range that significant power gains could be demonstrated. Assuming that a Herald is not generally driven hard, staying close to standard may be preferable.

I hope the cataract procedure goes well without any complications. Nice to see a picture of the car: Looks a very promising basis for a respray. The inner and outer seals to the door glass are not as simple as the ops. manual implies but I guess that's a bridge to cross in due course.

Tail trim is mostly self-evident: Top and bottow strips are each retained by half a dozen or so special edge clips. Can be well rusted in place so proceed along the strips gently and progressively prising to wiggle the strips free in stages. Or to put it another way the 'don't do' is to start at one end and forcefully prise it off fully - likely to lead to bent trim. Replacement clips are available but original clips are better fit so conserve if possible. Note that top and bottow strips are different length and curvature. The left and right 'horseshoes' were originally retained by each by four edge clips (of a different sort to the long trims). But this arrangement was never that satisfactory and adhesive may have been applied by PO. So, again, gentle, progressive prising. Mark the horseshoes 'L' and 'R' on removal (makes refitting easier). If horseshoes were to be replaced with better ones (repro or previously used) then there can be problems. Repro items are not faithfull to the original shape and even originals vary in how they sit when fitted. Thus if any of the four trim items are to be replaced it's not a bad idea to trial fit everything back before repainting to confirm that refitting, after painting, will be trouble-free.