Ziggy

Thats only on LHD cars, so mine does not have one.

Tr6 1973. After finding my rear brakes had not been working for a long time, I have removed both adjusters, cleaned and refitted them, replaced both cylinders and springs and renewed both rubber hoses, and now they work very well, but after bleeding them the pedal travels half way down even though the brakes work well. There is no leak from anywhere and the reservoir stays full. I have replaced the rubber washer on the front of the servo and fitted new pipes above the injectors, so does this only leave the servo that could be faulty, or am I missing something?

I am thinking of insulating under the bonnet on my TR6, but was wondering if there are any real benefits from doing this, has anyone done this already, and has it made a difference?

in My TR6 1973 my temp gauge works fine, no problems, the question is where my radio space is I am fitting two gauges and a clock, one of the gauges is a temp gauge, slightly different from the tr6 one. can I run the wire from the existing gauge, still using that one and split the wire to run the other as well, or would it be too much load on it or not enough even to work it?

Its a 1973, so late model. So I guess the cap should have the breather hole in then.

My Triumph TR6 injection had a non vented fuel cap seal, which when opened released some pressure. I was told it shouldnt be non vented and put a small hole in the cap rubber, so now there is no pressure. The car runs just as well, but I do get a whiff of petrol fumes now and again, is this normal and should it be pressurised or not?

Can anyone tell me which anti freeze I should use on my car, I know a blue mono Ethylene glycol is good, but which make? Halfords offer many different ones and its confusing! Also what is the mixture ratio?

Update on injector fault, I pulled number 5 out when engine not running, pulled the needle out a few times so the petrol trickled out and it seems to run much better now, nice strong pulse , nearly as good as the others, so lets hope thats sorted now for a while, and it started first time too!

1973 fuel injection. When starting it runs rough for about a min then seems ok after that. I have put fuel injection cleaner in, maybe that will help, but feeling the pulses on the pipes, all ok except number 5 which is weaker than the rest by a fair bit. Is this the injector at fault or something else? I guess whatever it is is causing my problem.

My 73 TR6 with fuel injection (lucas pump) has trouble starting, and when does seems to misfire for about 30 seconds, then all is ok, runs nice after that. Always the same when starting cold or hot. Replaced leads, cap, rotor arm, points, just put injection cleaner in the tank, so no results from that yet. Could it be a faulty injector? Is this a common problem?

Whats the best radio suppressor to get for my 1972 mk4 spitfire as the radio has a lot of interference when running, I guess the old one doesnt work anymore! Just restored the car, have 8mm leads on the plugs, but still get interference.

I will try that. I will remove the heater out pipe as that is cold when engine running, but the inlet is hot, so must be an air lock. No idea if it worked before, but I have had it all out and flushed it so I know its not blocked, I have restored the car bottom up, so most stuff is all new.

Just rebuilt my engine and have all new coolant pipes/rad, the whole coolant system has been stripped and cleaned, but after refilling the temp is perfect but when the fan is on I get no hot air at all, is this an air lock? if so, how do I get rid of it? 1973 mk4 Spit 1300.

Can anyone tell me the thread on the drain plug in the engine block on a 1972 MK4 1300 Spitfire? Its not 1/4" BSP , that I know for sure, and its not tapered either.

Just stripped down my mk4 1300 engine and am replacing the oil seals both ends of the crank. Do you apply any grease on the springs in the oil seals or leave them dry?

72 mk4 Spitfire

I would like to fit a Ethanol Proof Fuel Hose from tank to pump as just one pipe with no joints plus a glass fuel filter before the pump too, is this ok or does it have to be copper pipe with joints? 1972 mk4 1300 spitfire.

1972 mk4 spitfire, bought a new fuse box but cant get the old wires out of the old box, how do you do that? the new box seems to have slightly different connections as well. Do I just cut them and maybe solder them on?

I am restoring my 1972 mk4 1300 spit and have noticed three 17amp fuses in the fuse box, yet the Haynes manual state they should all be 35 amp, which I will now fit, any ideas why 17 amp were fitted? The car has not been running the two years I have had it as its in bits, and not on the road before that since 1980.

Does anyone know what the taper thread is on the top of the cylinder head for the water heater inlet adapter?

Just rebuilding my 1300 mk4 engine and would like to know the best engine oil to use when finished, what does it run best on?

I am rebuilding my MK4 suspension, all new bushes( poly), new shocks, new steering rack , new almost everything. I had one side of the chassis with no shims, the other with two shims, this is on the lower suspension arm brackets to chassis. Am I right in thinking that as all new, start with no shims either side and go from there? No engine in car to be able to check at local garage as yet.

Thanks for all the help/info. Top transport only clamp now removed, poly bushes fitted, too k 1/2 hr first one 10 mins second end. Pic shows the kit I used, a UJ removal tool comes in handy! couldn't show the plentiful swear words

Just bought a new rear spring and have assembled it, mounting box and plate with poly bush but cant find any torque setting for the spring clamps, 5 of them along the spring,, any ideas? I know the end bolt setting to the suspension.

I have a mk 4 spitfire 1972 1300 and the chassis plate is missing, can anyone tell me where else on the car it may be found?