chrisbladen

Spoke to the specialist again and they have 100% confirmed the diff is fine, with none of those issues mentioned

I will double check with the specialists but they have got the diff in pieces and assured me anything that would cause loss of drive is all good, they knew the issue so i would imagine they have thoroughly checked. I wish it was an optical illusion! I felt like i was going mad but my dad witnessed it aswell luckily otherwise i would have questioned if i actually was going mad. The issue iv got is that drive has come back so i cant say wether or not the half shafts were turning when id lost drive because i was in a rush i pushed it back in the garage and the next time i came down i had slight drive again so i didnt visually see if the half shafts were turning or not when i lost drive. But i think we can eliminate that because surely the side where the keyway was gone would just spin? I had my mate here holding the one wheel and the other wasnt just spinning in his hand so that clears that up, right?

No i dont have wire wheels. Not chekced that 2 b honest but if a keyway had given up wouldnt that mean a loss of drive fully and not able to suddenly come back again?

Yes it was rotating at speed, the more revs i gave it the faster it span. I could go through the gears as though i was driving but not moving anywhere. It really doesnt make any sense thats whats baffling me. I have drive again now but i didnt do anything to sort it, i just came back after a few days of being sat there while i was at work. The only noise i had was a slight clunky noise from the rear when i tried to pull off fast. Hence why i wanted to get the diff checked just in case

Took the diff off and took it to a specialist that my mate knows locally. They have stripped it and said the diff is perfect, no issues whatsoever. So now i really am baffled. Driveshafts appear to be in good working order so now i guess im gona have to just put it all back together and see how it goes. At least iv got peace of mind that theres not a rogue something lying there in the bottom of the diff waiting to fly up and cause carnage. Thanks for all the advice guys, il keep you posted how it feels when iv done a few miles in it

Yes mate i did check, prop turns. Ok il pull the short shafts out first. I take it im checking the splines all look ok on them?

Sounds like thats something that could have happened colin, i just need to bite the bullet and take the diff off this weekend and see whats what i think

Im guessing im gona have to take the diff out then as its only seems to have an issue under load and obviously its impossible to see whats going on while its being driven. Iv tried chocking the front wheels and with the handbrake on to imitate load, pull away but its got good drive and it wants to pull over the chocks! It feels like a kind of slipping sensation and with the teeth on the crown and pinion and planet gears being so big i thought maybe its on one of the splined joints either on either inner axle shafts or at the end of the pinion at the front of the diff. The splines that am visable from under the car on the drive shafts appear to be ok so to me it seems like its something inside the diff

So a new update, i havent touched it for a week due to work but needed to move it out the garage yesterday to get something past, before i pushed it out i just tried it and i had drive??? only reversed it slowly out and then pulled it slowly back in. Went i went to move faster i heard a slight crunching noise from the diff. Tried again today and now it seems i have full drive back. I have only drove it on the forecourt at the back of my garage so only up in to 2nd gear and its driving ok. If i go to pull away with some haste then i sometimes get that same crunching noise. But im unsure how iv gone from having drive to having no drive from the diff whatsoever to its driving again and i haven't done a thing?

Ok thanks i will give that a go aswell. Spoke to 2 transmission specialists and they am also baffled by this. This motor will be the death of me! Thanks for all the advice

I thought they looked a bit flat which is why i questioned it. This is the disc that was in there https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GCP230 But as i say i have put the original back in and the fingers looked about the same to be honest. I will also try the short shaft test. Everything seems to be pointing at the diff, butbas you said i am just thinking why? Why god why 😂

Thats ok then, seems like all must be ok box/clutch side. I cant believe theres an issue with the diff thats just coincidentally started after iv had the box off, but all iv done diff end is undone the prop and then reconnected. Seems like 2 much of a bad coincidence that a fault has started after this, im hoping its just something silly and simple but i cant think what it could be

Il check it out, have wait till i can get some1 up here with me to put it in gear so i can check whats going on underneath. Just as a side note, when i tightened the pressure plate back down the fingers on it started to pull in, i wasnt sure if they was going in too far but my mate said thats normal when you tighten the 6 bolts. Heres a pic

Yes it is abnormal which is what is baffling me Pedal is fully returning, brand new slave and it is working as should be, i can see the fork moving forward and back down the little gap at the side of the slave as i press and release the pedal If the pivot pin had fallen out would the fork not be operational at all? If so then no i dont think its fallen out. I didnt touch the t.o bearing or fork or anything g.box side other than a new slave cylinder as the old one had seized

Friction plate is 100% the right way round. And prop is 100% spinning when the wheels are on the ground. At first it thought the clutch was slipping but then the prop wouldnt turn. Its spinning more the more i rev so thats why i suspect a diff issue. But as i say i havent touched the diff and i had no problems with drive at all before. Pete, i put the old one back in to eliminate wether it was the wrong plate and my mate recommended it as it was baffling us both why diff was spinning but no drive. The old plate still had some friction material on it so if it was ok with the old one i was gona leave that one on

UPDATE... So its all looking good from an oil leak persperctive. Rear crank seal and sump both seemed to have stopped leaking as do the few pesky seals that i changed on the box while it was out. I replaced the friction plate while the box was out and also the slave cylinder cus that decided to seize, put it all back together and i could get gears but had no drive, prop was spinning but not moving the car. Spoke to my mechanice mate who didnt know what it was so suggested putting the old plate back in and seeing how it was with that. So box back out and put the old plate back in, with the back end up on axles the wheels am spinning through the gears but as soon as its got the resistance of the weight of the car it wont drive, but the prop is spinning which is pointing to a diff issue i imagine? Strange thing is i havent touched the diff and it was driving ok before so unless its a terrible coincidence that an issue has just appeared with the diff then i really am baffled as to what is going on with it

All done, tapped to 3/8 bsw, all good. Just filled the oil back up so can check in the morning. If its all good then il reassemble the rest with new clutch plate and see how we go Thanks for the advice guys

Oh yeh sorry missed that bit about the allen socket Can just about get a socket in there for a 3/8 bolt so should be good even if the m8 route doesnt work

Will do bud. Bet it was tight in the sump channel with the m10s?

I did think that the hole may already be to big for an m8 tap to do anything. Il see how i get on tommorow, im sure iv got a few 3/8 UNF bolts lying about so il tap it to that if needs be Reassuring to know that i can do it in situ though, be glad to get the thing back together lol

I think it is just held in through the front timing cover and front plate and then the wooden wedges, so it should just drop down with the sump off as you say. I would still rather retap in situ as its an easier fix. Thanks pete il try an M8 first but if not then i have a 3/8 tap so that will be my next port of call

Thanks will try it over night Next problem to add to the list that iv found, 🤦‍♂️ when replacing the sump is that the 2 bolts in the front sealing block are just spinning and not tightening, must have been overtightened previously. Is there any reason why i cant tap these to 3/8"? Or is it just recommendable to buy a new sealing plate?

Yes i will do, i cant see on my cap the pressure rating though as its quite scuffed. Any ideas what is should be at all?

Just been and checked and all bone dry today around that core plug. Dyed it off at 5pm last night so nothing after 17 hours. Could be that its just leaking when it gets warm? Is it worth changing anyway as a precaution do you guys think?

Rope round the crank and pull like hell, like an old mower 🤣 No i jest. In theory it would be nice to check before i reassemble it all but as you say il have to just have faith