Ian Cooper

They are both 'solid' and I'm thinking they may be faults in the original casting which have been chromed over. At first I wondered if they were some sort of brail indicator????

Hi Ian. Please see attached:-

Hi folks. I was once told there is no such thing as a stupid question so here goes:- My Mk2 GT6 door handles have push buttons which have a little 'pimple' on the top of the buttons, should the 'pimple' be at the bottom (out of sight)? Thanks Ian

Front and back three look bang on after my last tweek, and on a short run today no attempt to stall, fingers crossed😎

I'm still 'tweeking the mixture but the back three now look to be spot on and the front three are pretty close; looking at the plugs.

Hi. It's as standard, so no aftermarket heat shield.

Hi. 1970, Gt6 Mk2, standard CD 150s, electronic ignition, std 2ltr rebuilt 800 miles ago. The engine doesn't get much running and often takes three cranks to start but usually runs really well when started, however if I run along a dual carriageway (60ish) the engine will try to stall when I get to an exit roundabout, unless I keep the revs up. Keeping the revs up, will cause some high temperature readings, (not the dual carriageway running) but after a short time things will settle down and everything appears ok. She was running a little rich but I'm progressively winding the mixture back (1/4 turn a time) and she idles on the cool to normal side (Revotec fan) in the garage 7/800rpm. Any ideas where I can look to discourage the hot stalling please? Thanks Ian

The rubber diaphragm/seal in my vented filler cap (GT6 Mk2) has hardened and I was looking to buy a replacement but the usual suppliers seem to only offer unvented caps. Apart from the fact that it won't look correct is there a problem with fitting an unvented cap? Or does anyone know of a supplier for an original vented cap please? Thanks Ian

If she's just idling, on the driveway, and after the choke has been pushed fully home, she's happy enough but if I run a few revs and get the temp up, that is when I notice the drop off, so maybe running a little rich, I'll try the lean off a couple of flats. Thanks.

Hi. My GT6 (standard setup CD150s, but electronic ignition, electric fan and ss exhaust) runs beautifully but I've noticed the idle revs drop, to around 500rpm, when she's fully warmed up and I wondered if its normal. I've tweaked the idle screws to keep the engine running at around 800rpm 'hot' but this makes her run a little fast before fully warmed, which all seems a little backwards in my mind, anyone got any thoughts?

Just a quick follow-up. I removed the 'new' fuel pump, refurbished the original pump and refitted it, I then opened up the float chambers, cleaned and checked the free movement of the floats and shut-off valves (the floats were sluggish/sticking on the front carb) reassembled all and now, miraculously NO CHURNING😁 she always fires first or second pull🤗🤗😁

Hi, thanks for the responses guys. I've tried a brand new fuel pump and also refurbed my original pump with new valves etc, tried fitting a one way valve and really there is no improvement, leave it overnight and back to cranking. don't have the compensators and, as she will go on priming, I'm pretty sure the 'choke' discs are good. So I guess I'll put it down to evaporation and say no-one has cracked it🤔

Can I conduct a 'straw poll' please? I have a MkII GT6 which runs sweetly, has been rolling road tuned and is absolutely glorious except when starting. Has anyone out there got a Triumph, running twin CD150s, that starts first pull without priming? With priming mine will start first pull but without it needs loads and loads of cranking, so if you've got one that starts, what is the secret please?

I've been struggling with starting issues and am looking for suggestions. If I leave my GT6 Mk2 (stud carbs, electronic ignition), for any time the carbs seem to drain and it takes ages to refill by cranking. If I use the fuel pump lever, and 'prime' the carbs, she fires first time every time, so where is the fuel going and why? I can't find any leaks and she runs really well. Any suggestions? Ian

My GT6 Mk2 was stood for a couple of months, in a freezing garage, and I thought it would be an idea to prime the carbs using the pump lever. I may have overdone it a little as fuel started to drip from the air cleaner box. However on turning the key the engine fired up instantly, which it never does, usually two, three four goes (std CD150s). When running I could not see any fuel leakage, is it possible to pump fuel passed the carb float chamber valves to cause the leakage?

Hi all. Just a quick ask please. I'm looking to replace the standard fuel pump (gaskets and olives would be good too) on my MK2 GT6 and wondered if anyone can recommend the best supplier, and that includes 'Rimmers' if you think they may be offering the best, though I know they won't be the cheapest! Or maybe a supplier to avoid like the plague, all advice welcome. Cheers folks, and may I be the first to wish you all a Merry 🎄

Hi. The foams in my seats are shot and I'm about to start refurbishing the seats and thought its a good time to replace the rubber diaphragms, which are also on their last legs. However I cannot find these items listed (573900) anywhere. I can find all the TR's, Stag, Heralds etc but GT6 items are nowhere to be found, and for that matter I could not even see Spitfires listed. Does anyone know where I can source the correct items or if the Herald/Vitesse items will fit? Many thanks Ian

Hi torque starter.Problem occurs with 'overnight' starting no better or worse with a short layup. Glad you seem to be saying it's 'normal', but surely this must have driven customers mad when they bought to cars new???? Ian

I thought about fitting a non return valve, what do you reckon ?? The puzzle seems to be that she'll start for hours after she's run once, so my guess is not evaporation. I have a one way filter just before the pump would that not inhibit run back?? Cheers Ian

Hi Gary. Standard CD150s, from cold, if she's run for any time at all she'll go first pull for hours afterwards. I was wondering if it was garage related, i.e., the garage may not be cold enough to merit choke, but as I say i've tried no choke, full choke and half choke🤔🤨 cheers Gary

Hi folks. I'm suffering start-up embarrassment and hoping someone out there can throw me an idea, or two. Mk2 GT6. My engine was rebuilt some 350 miles ago. It runs on unleaded, the ignition system is electronic, fuel pump and lines are new, tank has been cleaned and treated, carbs have been refurbished and the whole system has been rolling road tuned and from five seconds after start-up is actually 'awsome', as described by the rr tuner. It runs beautifully and sounds great but start-up is embarassing. On turning the key she initially sounds like she wants to start and then......nah! I've tried no choke, half choke full choke and back again and it's usually at least four or five attempts before she fires, at which point she says, come on lets do this, I was just teasing there. Is there a foolproof method to get her started please? Thanks Ian

Hi Chris. The centre clamp is secure. Not sure why the hinge is now way out of alignment, I think there appears to be excessive wear at the extreme end of the curved slot with the metal worn almost completely through. I'll know more when I replace it with the one off ebay, thank you for spotting that, my search only threw up a L/H hinge. Thanks again Ian

Hi all. Just when I thought I was at the end of my resto the tailgate refused to close and it appears the R/H hinge has failed. The tailgate now appears to be squewed with the drivers side well out of alignment. The problem is that it looks like these parts are no longer available. Can anyone help me source this item or find someone who could recondition mine? Thanks Ian

Hi all. Has anyone got a definitive position for the 'A Post' seal for a Mk2 GT6? Rimmers have supplied what looks to be good quality items including Furflex door seals, 'A post' seals and cill seals. The Furflex seals are obvious but the 'A Post' seals can be fitted so that they run well down the 'A Post' and down the door front area, or they could be positioned to run extensively along the top of the door aperture and down the 'A Post' just down to the window/waistline. Anyone got a view? Thanks Ian

Hi. I'm recarpeting my Mk2 GT6 and all is going well but the carpet supplied for the heelboard has a lot of work to do, covering the tie rod mounts, passing over the transmission tunnel and up onto the shallow deck leading to the back axle 'hump'. Has anyone got any photographs of this area please? Thanks Ian