Ian Cooper

Hi. I'm getting around to some finishing touches on my GT6 resto and, back when I started the project a few years ago, I ordered some rear valance to rear wing lower trim strips. The strips that arrived were too short, they were cut, at the most visible ends (top), at the wrong angle and the curve was not as good as I had expected. OK I should have checked them earlier, just too trusting I guess, anyway does anyone know who sells a GOOD versions of these items please?

Hi all. Thanks for the rapid responses, as usual, but no luck yet I'm afraid. The locks are new and the forks shortened to match the original (keyless) items. I think the slide problem maybe Mk3's, and I'm not ready to give up just yet, so thanks again folks. Ian

Hi. I'm having fun with the door lock on my GT6 (passenger n/s). I've assembled all of the bits from my boxes and everything seems to operate as it should do but if I lock the door from the outside I cannot unlock it from outside. The internal release lever will allow me to open the passenger door but no amount of fiddling will allow this to happen from outside. Any ideas/suggestions greatfully received. Ian

Hi folks. Is there a 'Yoda' of Tacho cables out there? My GT6 Mk2 is fighting me and I need to show it I'm the boss! I've just returned my GT6 to the road after way too many years of 'restoration' and frankly it's more 'Trigger's Broom' than 1970 classic, although I've endeavoured to get as much rebuilt as possible and only replaced with upgrades where, possible. She now runs very nicely indeed, though she can be a pig to start, and I'm working my way through a 'Snagging List', top of which is the rev counter. I know the gauge works, I know the distributor drive works and I'm pretty certain the old cable was good, but I replaced it anyway and it worked for a time (7/8 miles) but now it refuses to work. If I undo the drive from the back of the gauge the cable seems to have risen, which disengauges it from the distributor drive. If I push down on the cable it re-engauge's but soon rises out again. Ok so try the cable the other way around, so that the collar prevents the cable from rising (the opposite to the way the original was fitted), this pushes the nylon gear out of mesh so no drive. Anyone had similar issue and if so how did you get around it please? Ian

I have to say DVLA turned my 'Historic Vehicle' approval around in just under four weeks, also the website states that you can use the vehicle whilst awaiting your application. Ian

Hey folks. I'm not trying to get away with anything here, I've carried out a full nut and bolt restoration and the DVLA have told me the GT6 is MOT exempt. I never had the slightest intention of running it on the road without a thorough safety check by a specialist I trust who has the equipment and experience of working on my vehicle; and if the DVLA hadn't told me my vehicle was exempt, it would have had an MOT. Being MOT exempt surely doesn't mean I can't have it MOT'd does it? For me it's all about safety and there is no way I'm driving on today's roads unless I feel I've done everything I can to be safe. Don't shoot me, shoot DVLA! Ian

I was aiming to take it straight to a classic car specialist locally, that I trust, to be 'safety checked' as it's very first drive, my logic being he would certainly be more thorough than the average 'mot specialist/tyre dealer'. But I do agree, in principal. Thanks Ian

Thanks folks. I did read, on the website, that you can use the vehicle 'whilst the application is being processed', have any of you had any problems with that?? Cheers Ian

Hi. I've just been on the DVLA website, trying to return my GT6 to the road after many years restoration. The site tells me I don't need an MOT but it asks me for £280 Road Tax. Obviously a car first registered in 1970 does not require Road Tax so does anyone know if this charge is just a 'glitch' or if my Credit Card will be hit if I send the card details requested?? Any help/advice greatfully received. Thanks Ian

Hi Pete. Do you happen to know if the Mini (Word & Pickett) strip fits, the profile is diffent to the Rimmers strip?? Thanks Ian

Hi Mike. Thanks for your windscreen fitting tips. I just fitted my GT6 screen and I used 4/5mm Dinghy rope, worked a treat. Dry mounted the screen to the rubber, to prevent it moving around, used masking 'gaffer' tape as you suggested every few inches, lubed the metal seam (washing up liquid) and made sure the lower seal lip was nicely seated on the screen surround before pulling the rope. I was pleasantly surprised it all went very easy until the two top corners but lots of patience and in she popped. Now the chrome finishing strip is another story. I've checked the usual, Youtube, for guidance but there is no way that little sucker is going all the way down into the slot, even with the fitting tool, it just will not go in deep enough and lubricant makes it pop out. I can easily get it to sit in the slot with the top flange above the seal but no way is it going to sit inside. Anyone got any ideas, and no I'm not taking the screen out to fit it to the rubber before fitting!

Ok, I've just done the n/s door and I can say it was a pig, mainly because I was stupid enough to fit new rubber to the window lift glass carrier and I used soap to ease its fitting, which with the aid of a couple of ratchet straps worked fine, but easy in = easy out and the bloody glass kept popping out of the rubber.... derrrr! Anyway took it all apart, cleaned off the soap and refitted the glass to its carrier dry. Now for the assembly:- I fitted the winder mechanism loosely. Clipped in the outer weather seal. Gently slid the quarterlight assy into position and loosely fitted its fixings, it's a tight fit but just needs lots of care. I carefully slid the glass down into the door and clear of the weather seal. If, like me, you have the padded door capping you will note that the factory cut slots for the clips, I put some masking tape markers on the 'visible' side of the capping to ensure I fitted the clips in the correct places, then I positioned the capping in place and held it with a few strips of gaffer tape. Position so that the doorcard fixing holes are visible. Next I fitted the inner felt seal to the door slot, it's bloody fiddly and the stupid little clips are a swine because they keep falling off, but eventually I get the strip to seat. Now using extreme care, so not to dislodge the felt and weather seal, slde the glass into it's channel in the quarterlight and then lift it gently between the weatherseal and felt strip, pushing it into the slot as you do so. Next I fiddled for ages to engage the glass runner with the lifting mechanism but finally in the two nylon rollers went. Next I fitted the rear window channel, again with the fixings just finger tight. When I was happy that everything was running correctly I nipped up the fixings just a little, then I fitted the top and bottom stops. After that I moved onto the door handle and locks. I haven't fully tightened anything yet because I'll probably need to adjust things to fit the door aperture but I won't be fitting the doors until I've finished the interior fit. Hope this helps. Ian

Thanks guys, very much appreciate your guidance. Ian

Hi all. I'm about to assemble (from boxes) the doors, quarterlights, outer weather strip, glazing strip, winder mechanism, glass, lock, handles etc. Has anybody got a recommended order and is the glazing strip supposed to be shorter than the weatherstrip? Thanks for any help, suggestions and I welcome any tips. Cheers Ian

I finally got around to repairing the screenwash/pump switch on my GT6 Mk2 that someone, in its past, had butchered replacing the plastic knob with a crudely shaped piece of wooden dowel. I had picked up a similar looking switch on ebay a couple of years ago but one of the electrical connections was different (smaller) and one was a female connector so I hadn't fitted the switch. I decided to take the plunger rod from the donor switch to replace the (butchered) plunger from my switch and fit a new knob. Taking the donor switch apart it became obvious the inner pump would be damaged beyond repair so I figured an upgrade to an electric switch would be a good idea. So this is my solution if it helps anyone. Parts used: 1 Lucas style push button switch (0-485-01) momentary 10A horn (Durite) - EBAY 1 Plastic bush (148926) lower wishbone rear (rotoflex)- GT6 and Vitesse 2 x 1/2 self tappers and small washers. 2" by 1/2" strip of neoprene pond liner (a couple of turns of insulation tape would work just as well) Method: Remove the knob (there's a small hole underneath the shank, push a thin rod in to release the nylon locking clip) and withdraw the knob. Remove the pump/switch from the dashboard. Remove the white pump inlet/outlet end (I drilled a series of small holes around the inlet/outlet nozzles, joined them up and pulled out the remnants, a spring and rubber diaphragm. At this point I swapped the donor plunger with my butchered plunger but you shouldn't have to do that it can stay in place. Remove the 'Lucas' switch mounting nut (not shown) but leave the mounting washer. Wrap the neoprene around the switch body (a couple of turns of insulation tape will do) and slide it into the suspension bush as shown. Now place the assembly into the pump body and and check the fit against the plunger; the whole assembly should fit snugly against the plunger with it's domed head seating in the switch depression. NB The switch has a small amount of travel before it switches so you can mount it without a gap to the plunger. If you're happy with the fit drill two small 'pilot' holes (180° apart on the horizontal) through the outer pump body and just mark the bush inside. Now remove the switch, and drill through the bush. Align holes and screw the self tappers through the pump body and into the bush; to cut a thread. Take out the self tappers and (to prevent damage to the switch I filed the sharp points off the screws to make them blunt). Put the switch/bush assembly back together and position in the pump body with the holes aligned. Replace the self tappers using thin washers and job done, 'a period' modification that can be repaired or replaced. You'll need an electric pump and a couple of wires but that's the easy bit. Hope this helps someone. Thanks for all your help. Ian

Hi. Just to round this off, in case anyone else has a similar issue, here are the conclusions. 1. The long black wire I mentioned, coming from the end of the harness, was indeed factory fit. It was, as I suspected, a 'Good' earth/ground for the bonnet and it connects to one of the horn mounting bolts (drivers side in my case). 2. The issue with the horn sounding when the ignition key was turned was due to the bulkhead solenoid being incorrectly (by me) connected (there was an additional small blade connection on the replacement solenoid. Using this connection meant there was no live feed to the 'Live' side of the fusbox until the solenoid was engaged. 2a. The horn push had a number of items missing (the 'pencil' brush and the horn push retaining clip) and there was evidence of filing to the back of the steering wheel boss and the horn push connecting strip. My explanation is that the steering column bushes were worn and that 'play' allowed the wheel to move sufficiently to short the horns ON, so someone (not me (historically)) had decided to increase the clearance by filing the boss, rather that replacing the column bushes. This doesn't look like it worked so I'm guessing they removed the 'Pencil' brush and horn retaining clip. I'm not convinced this would have silenced the horns but hey I'll probably never know for sure. I also discovered that the main headlight switch was broken, so that is now replaced and electrically I think all is now good, or will be when I replace the column bushes and replace the horn push. (horns are good when shorted with pliers so the circuit looks good). So hands up it was a brick that I dropped and some historical Hocus Pocus! Cheer Ian

Hi. Been looking through some very old pics and found these taken during welding. The long Black Ground/Earth can be seen hanging in 1812a (bottom right corner) and 1814a (upper centre to lower left). 1812a and 1813a show the main feed to the horns and a Black earth/grounds which also connect to the mounting brackets. This is what I'm trying to replicate but I don't have any reference for the other end of the 'Long Black Ground/earth at the centre grill (1814a), I assumed it was carrying Earth/ground to the bonnet but I suppose it could have been looped back to the chassis somewhere??? Ian

It emerges from the loom sheathing with all the other wires and looks to be original, it even has original underbody seal on it. My guess was it was there to provide a 'Proper' ground/eath to the bonnet. Unfortunately I didn't remove the harness (the paint shop did way back in history) and I'm pretty sure they won't remember, thats the trouble with a loooooong restoration. It's long enough to reach either of the horn mounting brackets, but as mine's a Mk2 I don't have the quadrant brackets, as per your Mk3. I've discovered the main headlight switch is only making two positions so it's obviously not helping me to sort my gremlins, so what with a missing horn brush mystery wire and strange filings its proving irritating so the alcohol suggestion was a great idea (sod dry January). I may add a new horn relay to my next shopping list, just to be on the safe side! Cheers Ian

Sorry, I didn't put 2 and 2 together, it's brain fade from buggering about in a cold dark garage😁🤔 Cheers. Ian

Hi Doug, thanks for the comment. Can I ask you where your long black wire, which emerged from the harness at the bonnet and has a 'banjo'/washer connection, is physically connected please? Ian

At first I wondered if it was rubbing but the marks would be radial and these are straight so someone has been file happy. The brass contact strip has also been filed from square to roughly semi circular, so I have no idea what that's all about. Guess I need to to try and work out what's going on and try to get back to what it should be. It would be really helpful if there was a harness drawing rather than a circuit drawing. Ian

Finally got back onto this and taken the steering wheel off. The horn connecting plunger/horn brush is completely missing and it looks as if someone has been filing the boss so I believe it's been earthing continuously, which I'm pretty sure would account for the horn sounding when I turn the ignition key, do you see this as the correct explanation? I'm thinking of applying a thin coat of epoxy resin to the 'filed' areas, as an insulator, and replacing the missing plunger/horn brush. Any thoughts or suggestions/tips/experiences I can learn from?? Ian

Thanks for responding. Tried the horn mounting bracket and weirdly the horn sounds when I turn the ignition key??? Ian

Hi Folks. I've refitted the bonnet with new head and sidelights after paint and I have a long, single black ground/Earth wire with a 'banjo' connection emerging from the harness. As the bonnet was removed by the paint shop (years ago) I have no idea where this wire is connected, the W/S manual diagram does not help. Anyone any ideas please?? Thanks Ian

I haven't rebuilt the carbs they were done by Bill Moore (Solutions Ltd), who was recommended by Bromsgrove Engine Services who rebuilt the engine and they, in turn, feature in a number of Fuzz Townsend's Car SOS. So I was hoping these were good people to use for the rebuilds, and as I say there are times when the engine is absolute sweetness and light and times when it takes to the Darkside, which is what is so irksome. I'm loath to carry out a lot of teardown unless I know a definite cause as I know, from when it performs well, it performs really well. Thanks Ian