Cavaciuti@aol.com

Yes ... you DID read that right - a 2.5 ltr GT6 Convertible!!! It's been a lot of fun improving this little pocket rocket, but time to move on to pastures new. Feel free to contact me if you're interested or have any questions. I'm going to miss her. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202841473113

It is indeed. Came with the car, but read somewhere they're not a great idea ... taking oil away from the expensive-to-fix bearings to oil-feed the cheap bits. Left it on for the moment though.

Have dug up these (not so great) pics - from memory, thickness of flywheel was approx. 1/2". Also included pic of Bearing Carrier so you can see what's inside ... Could it be the Release Carrier twisting on the shaft, hence not pressing on clutch housing fingers squarely??? Could explain sporadic nature of issue? I'm Clucking Flueless.

Nick, Thanks for offer of advice - in Wellington myself. Just want to get this thing up in the Blackdown Hills for play - some lovely roads up there!!! It's going up to NE Motors in Shepton Mallet as also needs a good tuning. (Spamspeed in Glos also came highly recommended, but he seems to have retired 😥).

G/box serial nos. DG 1057 (see pic). Other pic is from before the Slave Cylinder was changed for a new one (although pin was retained), but shows g/box & bellhousing assy. Sorry for lack of info ... am new to classic cars. S.

From serial number, it's a Dolomite g/box.

Difficult to say - looked polished (as you'd expect), but no signs of visible wear. Was tempted to firmly tape a bolt to the lever arm where the pin sits (e.g. effectively extending the pin) to see if that helped, but not tried it yet. Anyway, spoke to specialist in Somerset this am, & he's looking at it next week.

Tend to agree with Colin - there's something not quite right about the whole mechanism which is causing it to not disengage properly. I did strip the remote lever though, and all seemed to go back fairly snugly. Also removed the clutch (nearly new, so went back on), & the "Flywheel This Side" stamp gave me a sleepless night when engine was out ... did I or didn't I ... so took bellhousing off next day just to check ... & yes, it was correct!!! 😀

Pete, Thanks for the interest. When I bought car (Jan) it absolutely refused to go into 3rd gear going up box, but sporadically engaged 3rd going down the box. Stripped box completely then ran out of talent so Glocester Rd Gearboxes put it back together with new Synchros. Back in car, clutch refused to disengage fully (creeping forward with foot fully on clutch). Changed slave cylinder & seems improved, but now issue is that I can go up box & suddenly it won't go in to ANY gear. Have to bang it in to a gear, then will behave for a few minutes, then repeats issue again. So leaning more toward g/box related, but my experience too limited to know where to go with it next. Still, looks good with the GT6 bonnet back on the Spitfire bodywork!!!

Dear All, Can anyone recommend a Triumph specialist in Somerset or Devon? Got a 2.5ltr GT6 with a few clutch issues (... I've tried, & failed). Could also do with a proper tune-up as was running rough when I bought it (on twin Strombergs) & would love to get it going properly. Many Thanks.

Bought a GT6 Mk3 with Spitfire Mk4 body & 2500pi engine on twin Strombergs in Jan. Insurance was £120 pa through Admiral (!!!), however I did need to get a recognised Triumph club to value it in person, then send valuation through to Admiral within 28 days of policy starting. A ball-ache, but now insured. Seems fairly standard procedure for anything out of the ordinary.

Did this today! Just about managed to get a socket onto the 4 bolts to remove the fan by sliding the ratchet in sideways (being paranoid not to scrape newly re-cored radiator!!!) Refitting the nuts was a REAL pain, but once nipped up, the engine started cranking as I tightened the fan nuts further ... and that might be your answer!!! Remove the plugs (to reduce compression forces working against you), then squeeze a socket onto the fan bolt-head & crank slowly from there. Would be VERY careful about putting any loading on the plastic fan (even at the blade roots). Good Luck, Simon.

Guess I was hoping to find a quick fix ... but to quote Madam Guillotine, it's "Off with the Head". Thanks again all. S.

That meniscus on rear-most nut is indeed the leaky stud. Only picked car up in Jan, & started work straight away, so unsure on if it was leaking before. Studs definitely aren't slotted. Was hoping not to have to get head off again, but doesn't take too long so ... Many thanks for the replies - all appreciated. Simon.

Hi, Back in Jan I bought a GT6 Mk3 with a 2500pi engine (on twin Strombergs), & since found it's got a Vitesse g/box, so a real 'bitsa'. Have stripped & rebuilt engine with new head gasket, but when I fired it up this afternoon there is blue coolant leaking up one of the Cylinder Head studs & through the nut thread. Only 1 stud seems to be leaking - back of engine, drivers side (above the starter motor). Tried re-tightening nut, but it's still leaking. Has anyone seen this before? Struggling to think how it could happen or how to fix, so any advice gratefully received. Cheers, Simon.