Darren Groves
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Posts posted by Darren Groves
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Hi all,
I am trying to identify where the nylon pipe (Part No. 138308) from the oil pressure gauge connects to on the side of the engine block. Whilst the manual and parts suppliers show how the earlier Banjo Type pipe connects, nobody shows how the latter one connects.
If anyone out there has a 4a with this type pipe could supply a pic of the location I would be very grateful......🙏
Many thanks
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Thanks for the replies above, I haven't had much of a chance to look at the issue. Since I posted the above I had just wired the main switch direct to the motor and bypassing the park switch, the motor then worked fine (apart from it won't park of course), so I know the main switch and the actual motor are fine.
I have tried 3 new park switches all from different suppliers, they all give the same result which is I cannot turn off the wipers.
With the last park switch I bought I just used it as a connector, so not connected to the wiper motor body, by doing this I can manual depress the pin and the wipers stop immediately. So the park switch is doing what it's supposed to but just not when it's in position. So the problem is that the either the pin on the park switch is marginally too short and/or the lobe on the gear needs to be marginally higher so the when the two meet the pin is raised high enough to earth the brush and stop the motor. I have measured the length of the pin and how recessed the lobe is and that tells me they are only just touching, but not enough to depress the pin adequately.
The wiper drive gear was new a couple of years ago and has had a minimal use, there's no sign of wear on the lobe so I see little point replacing that and clearly all the park switches are the same, so the only solution I can see is to find a way of elongating the pin on the park switch or raising the height of the lobe on the drive gear. If anyone has any ideas on how to do either I'd be very grateful.
Thanks.
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Since I got the Spitfire back on the road last year, I've been struggling with the wipers.
Brand new wiper motor, home made loom and this circuit has its own fuse. Initially all worked fine.
Symptoms were that I'd lose low speed, high speed would be fine but they also wouldn't park. Or sometimes the fuse would blow.
If I pulled the connector from the park switch squirted with WD40 or electrical contact cleaner and it would start working again.
By wiggling the park switch I can recreate anything from them working correctly to the symptoms above, so assumed this was the issue and bought a replacement. I fitted that today and I get both speeds working fine, no blowing fuses, but the wipers won't turn off....
Any ideas? Two Park switches with different faults maybe?
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Just now, PeteH said:
By the look of those o-rings, they have gone hard?. You could try replacing them?.
Pete
First thing I checked, but seem soft and pliable....
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21 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
yes a stronger spring may help this if the air piston is stiff it makes the brakes hang on
something rings a distant bell to remove one of the two seals
make sure the piston pushrod does move easy through the vac chamber hole where the main cylinder is bolted
Pete
When say stronger spring, you mean the main one to the diaphragm? Where would I even get one from as Powertune don't seem to exist anywhere, can't seem to find out who actually makes these units.
I did unclamp the back of the unit, but didn't seem any obvious way to remove the diaphragm so I could look at the pushrod etc. does it just pull out as it didn't feel like it wanted to.
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9 hours ago, Wagger said:
I seem to remember a blocked hole somewhere (with flaking rust) causing this on a MM 15 years ago. Check for debri or something acting as a valve.
It was very annoying, sapping power, ruining economy and boiling the fluid. Took ages to find.
That won't be the issue here as it was effectively a new unit, but bought several years ago so no receipt and can't even remember where I bought it....🙄
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Thanks for the replies....I'll make sure I vent the battery, I am going to relocate the original battery bracketry into the boot, but will use the quick release battery connectors (see pic) to stop any chance of something shorting between the terminals.
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The Powertune brake servo on my Spitfire has a sticky piston on the air control valve (see pic), which results in the brakes locking on even without the pedal depressed. Anyone else had this issue and managed to successfully fix it?
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Just reading this old thread as I'm going to be moving my Herald battery to the boot. A few questions
- What size cable should be used, 110 or 170amp?
- Should I run the earth to the front as well or to a point on the body/chassis at the rear?
- Does the battery have to be in a box, can I just reuse the battery bracket that I've removed from the bulkhead?
Thank you!
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Problem sorted....finally got the butterfly to sit correctly, idles nice now....👍
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2 hours ago, Anglefire said:
Are you sure it is this that is the problem - given that some air has to get in the engine at idle.........
I had a massive problem with my spit idling too high and it turned out to be a leak on the manifold to head flange. Can easily prove it by running the engine and dropping a bit of oil on around the mating face - which should drop the idle as it seals it - or a bit of spray brake cleaner which may raise it - though can also seal for a bit. Petrol is good - if you are brave
Pretty sure, doesn't take much of a gap around the throttle disc to bring up the revs. I did spray easy start around the mating faces with no change in revs.
Cheers
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3 hours ago, dave.vitesse said:
I agree with Rob the disc may not be centred correctly. The disc should be centred with the throttle fully closed, throttle screws and choke cam dis-engaged. Undo the two screws holding the disc to the spindle and centre the disc Then move the spindle in and out to ensure the disc is in the centre of the spindle slot.
Dave
Hi Dave,
Have done many of these over the years, this is how I fit them and I retried again yesterday, but it just wouldn't sit right.
I ran out of time last night, so will have another bash on Sunday when I have a day off.
Cheers
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Backed off the idle and fast idle screws to ensure no interference....will get it on the bench on Sunday to see what's happening....
Cheers
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:
Daren not wishing to seem "£$$%^& but is the disc the right way round , ???
pete
Haha....yeah, it's definitely in the right way.
I think if you try them the wrong way, the disc is a long way off closing.Darren
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Hi All,
Started my Spitfire MK4 for the first time, full engine rebuild etc.....Started fine but can't get the idle down, the front carb is pulling in too much air even though idle screw fully wound out. Started to investigate and it was pretty obvious what the issue was (see pic). In the fully closed closed position the throttle disc isn't a great fit, so swapped with the throttle disc with the other carb exactly the same...so regardless of which throttle disc I use the problem stays with the front carb. The carbs were fully rebuilt by me last year, so the discs, spindles etc. were all replaced with new items from Burlen.
I rebuilt a fair few HS2's in the past, but never had a disc not fit well....any tips of tricks? Replacement Carb Body?...there is one on eBay at the moment.
Cheers
Darren
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The Stud Plate (Part no. 618505) isn't available from any supplier. Anyone come up with an alternative method to fix the dash or found something similar that works?
D.
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Yep, touching. I could lower the tank a few mm if I really tried, but not enough. OK, will trim off the filler neck, just thought they might be supplied to the correct application.....
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I fitted my new fuel tank today in to my MKIV Spitfire, is it a known thing that the filler necks are too long? Pic 1 shows the lowest the filler cap will sit when touching the top of the tanks filler neck, pic 2 shows the height....I could just shorten the tanks neck, but thought I'd ask the question in case I'm missing something obvious. Unfortunately I don't have the old tank to compare.
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I'm close to putting the body back on the chassis on my MK4 Spitfire and wondered if at the mounting points circled in red, should there be anything between body & chassis?
Thanks
Darren
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8 hours ago, poppyman said:
Why not just use one of these to be on the safe side? I keep one in my Dolly 1850 just in case. Temp gauge was coming close to red in traffic last summer turned out to be 89Degrees. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handheld-LCD-Digital-Laser-Thermometer-Temperature-Infrared-Non-Contact-IR-Gun/142456227542?hash=item212b0d86d6:g:DEsAAOSwKoFa6VIo Dirt cheap as well.
Tony.
I have, as mentioned in my original post.
Cheers
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17 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
Voltage stabiliser smiths or modern electronic???
Pete
Was changed from original type to solid state one.
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5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
There are only two temperature senders
Stabilised GTR108 mostly black
Non stabilised 121997 mostly green
Get the them mixed and you get hot readings
Smiths did red green, brown and black to identify type and voltage but generic makes seem all black
Will try the red one out of my Spitty tomorrow....
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2 minutes ago, johny said:
ok how does the car behave when you stop after a good run? Does the temperature increase rapidly on tickover or stay the same - this can be a good indicator of how much spare 'capacity' there is in the cooling system and whether you are actually running hot....
The temp goes up normally and peaks at the high reading, no rapid changes.
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18 minutes ago, johny said:
Your right about the rad filler cap being lower than the heater but Ive found that on the first run after system filling the heater should fill (I achieve this by opening and closing the heater water control valve a few times) and then should stay filled by syphon effect. The rad might then need a top up but the system should remain stable unless theres a leak somewhere. If small this can be undetectable under pressure as the water leaking flashes off to steam however on cooling the slight vacuum produced draws air in which eventually causes the heater to lose prime.
If the hot running is real it could be causes by fuel mixture. I had air ingress via the carb spindles which gave a weak mixture which I couldnt adjust for and made the engine produce more heat than it should.....
You get heat in the car and the hoses to and from the heater valve are hot. The filler is quite a bit lower than the highest point of the top hose and thermostat housing, so that was more of a concern. There are no leaks and the rad maintains it's level fine.
The car was running a bit too rich when it came in so we have weakened off a bit, but that's had no impact on the temp reading.
TR4a Oil Pressure Gauge Pipe Connection
in Engine
Posted
Yes, I think you're right....that all makes sense now, thank you.....👍