Darren Groves
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Posts posted by Darren Groves
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You could make one with a suitable sized bolt and nut to lock in position
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If the G15 is yellow and from a local seller, let me know as I may know it.
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I recognise that car....
For those of you who don't, t belongs to TSSC Devon Area member John Bonnet. Go grab yourself a copy.
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Just 2. If you have 4 then a PO has modified it.
http://canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-crankshaft-flywheel-connecting-rod-piston
http://canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mki/ii-mki-crankshaft-and-camshaft
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All back together now with the original type needle roller, shame I couldn't use the plastic caged type, but seems it's the 4 Synch output shaft that's needed. Just need a spare moment to get it back into the car.
I spent the whole day thinking I had a washer over, but couldn't work out where it was from. I was convinced the young lad at the workshop planted it in with the others parts just to confuse me. As I went to fit the rear flange on the back of the OD it all made sense.... :-)
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Spotted the woodruff key, that's definitely done. Reverse Idler Spacer Tube? Not sure what that is, is it on this diagram: http://canleyclassics.com/images/diagrams/herald1360_plate_m.jpg
I haven't touched the OD, was planning to leave that for another day. Do I still have to align it or can I just pop it back on?
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Thanks Pete. So it's looking like it could be correct, that's a bonus as I'm pretty sure its assembled correctly. Have checked the exploded diagram several times just in case I'm doing my usual of missing the bloody obvious!
Have posted the question elsewhere also, if nothing received to the contrary I'll go with that.
Had to take the output shaft to a local engineer, could remove the remains of the roller needle bearing case, hopefully will be ready tomorrow.
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Thanks Pete, the ones that look like steel were in fact bronze but tarnished, found three that looked and feel the best.
I assembled the mainshaft and refitted it, then decided that the 1st/2nd hub wasn't right so removed it again, but now I'm thinking it was right so another question.
The 1st/2nd hub has a pin/ball bearing that locates it onto the mainshaft, this is in line with the 3 spring/ball bearings for the outer hub. When the outer part of the hub is pulled rearward the whole hub assembly is locked onto the mainshaft and there's little movement, but with the outer part of the hub forward there's a lot of movement.
Probably not explained that very well, so here's a couple of very short videos:
Outer hub rearward: https://youtu.be/sDjQyNi6JMo
Outer hub forward: https://youtu.be/kha4NqKtTzU
Is this correct?
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This isn't uncommon, if adjusting the cross bars doesn't fix it just jack the rear fin sections apart. If you're careful you shouldn't do any damage.
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Just wanted to say a big thanks to Pete Lewis who I've been messaging over the last few days about this rebuild, always so willing to help and the advice is always spot on, so once again thank you! To give him a break from my endless questions, I thought I'd throw this one out to the wider community.
After my gearbox failure a week or so ago, finally got an opportunity to strip it down to see what went wrong. Didn't take much to find the remains of the needle roller bearing in the case and in the output shaft.
2nd & 3rd synchros have been on the weak side since I fitted it 2-3 years ago, so will change those from my selection that I acquired over the last couple of years. The 3 held together by string in the photo were advertised an NOS, so favourites to use I guess, the remainder are a selection of original items advertised as good usable items.
Are there any recommended methods to test the synchros whilst fitting, rather than discovering they weren't so good after refitting the gearbox?
Cheers
Darren
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I used NGK BUR6ET, didn't notice any difference over standard NGK's.To quote nick from elsewher
"I use triple electrode plugs, special favourites Bosch (as used on Mk2/Mk3 Golf GTI 8v) on all my Triumphs"
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I'm pretty sure the problem is up towards the filler pipe ( facing the inner wing) - would the Frost tank sealant kit work there?
Yes it would.
The kit is a 3 stage process, clean, surface prep and then sealant. At each stage you have to seal up all the holes and swirl each of the liquid around, so if you seal right up where the cap would go then it will work there also.
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If you can't find anyone to repair locally, then fuel tank repair kits do work on pinholes: http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-small-car-tank-repair-kit.html
Have used these kits successfully on a couple of tanks, including my current one.
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Thanks Pete, if that's the reason then it'll have to come off as it's the gearbox that's really poorly.
OD generally works, very infrequent slip, slightly lazy change sometimes and just the hint of vibration. Finances may have to dictate revisiting the OD at a later date.
Curiosity is bound to get the better of me though, so it'll probably end up stripped and reassembled at least.
Darren
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On the Canley's Classics website it says to 'Never remove the adaptor plate from the gearbox' but doesn't say why: http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/the-d-type-overdrive/
Had a quick look inside the gearbox today, found the remains of the needle roller bearing floating around in the oil....
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Definitely should back the nut off when re-torquing, I normally undo a 1/4 turn but as long as you reach your desired setting with a smooth and steady pull then that should be fine.
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Oops.....just updated North Devon
http://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/areas_final.asp?area_ID=99&area=South%20West,%20North%20Devon
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Well I knew it was coming, I have been nursing my gearbox for a couple of years now and it's finally had enough. Was always a slightly crunchy affair, but now non existent. I have collected a few NOS spares to do this job, but whilst it's out of the car I should get the OD sorted as well.
Are OD rebuilds for specialist only or should I tackle myself?
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Contact supplier as item not fit for purpose, if you do any work on the manifold supplier might not rectify it.
Regards
Paul
I've contacted Garth also, I won't do anything until he's replied.
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I'm replacing the exhaust system on a Vitesse 6, Stainless Steel manifold and standard system from Bell via the Club Shop. All went together without too much hassle, the fit was better than I'd thought it would be but the problems started when clamping up the manifolds.
Due to the welds on the Bell manifold being so proud, when you tighten the clamps they don't clamp down evenly (a not very good picture below), so unsurprisingly there's a major air leek and the car runs terrible (as you'd expect)
My gut feeling is to remove the manifold, dress down the welds and refit. But before I take soft disc to a brand new manifold, any other suggestions?
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As much as I didn't want to , had to go for a new fuel pump. Rimmers were the only ones stocking them for the early 2L Vitesse engines. Fitted and it works, but thought you might like to see the difference in the levers.
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Only 31 years, do you still have the receipt? I'd get those back to the trader for a refund.... :-)
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I bought one of these a couple of months ago: http://r.ebay.com/QnvVSK
Anything like this will work, you'll just have to use some penny/repair washers to adjust the distance between brake pedal and switch
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I think KYB still do some shocks that fit our cars, last time I looked anyway. They were reasonable priced and must be better that the rubbish standard ones.
Gearbox and d type overdrive for spitfire mk3 wanted
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Used units are always on eBay, or you could try the Spitfire Graveyard. You'll need different gearbox mounts and chassis plate, shorter Propshaft, OD switch and wiring.
If buying used, then don't expect it to be perfect, it'll likely need some work.