Darren Groves
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Posts posted by Darren Groves
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Thanks Pete, out of interest where did you get those measurements from?
I found this on the Piper Cams website:
Small 46.755mm Journal and Large 49.94mm Journal available.
I measured my old standard 13/60 cam and they were just shy of 50mm, so definitely looks as if it is a large...
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My current 2L six runs 10.5:1
Previously I've gone as far as 10.78 calculated), but that's the limit without higher octane fuel than current pump fuel.
Your engineer friend is far too conservative.
But I thought you said you built the engine?
John
He done the machining, I built it.
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Needs a rebore, crank fine, too much end float...
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My 'GE' engine has a camshaft that runs directly in the block, according to one of the Triumph suppliers this is a large bearing camshaft, excerpt from their website:
Small for engines with replaceable bearing fitted to cylinder block, originally fitted to TC engines, 1147-1286cc pre 1969.Large for all other models, where cam runs in cylinder block. Bearings can always be removed for this range to be used on early models.But this is a reply from another traderGE blocks should be small bearing cam size.The MKIII profile cams we do are ground on to large bearing cams designed to fit in the later large bearing blocks (GK prefix 13/60, Spitfire MKIV, and 1500, etc).My current camshaft is a Newman TRIS/280/405 PH2 (bought via yet another trader), according to the Newman website this is a Large Bearing.
Can anyone clarify what I should have, or know the diameter of the bearings of both types so I can compare to my old stock Herald cam that's gathering dust in the garage.
Thanks
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Good suggestions Clive, thank you.
This morning I was at the engineers who done the work on my engine 3 years ago, old school guy that done his apprenticeship on Triumph engines so knows them inside out. Last time I was there with my cylinder head was to get the compression ratio to 9.6:1 to better match my camshaft. We were discussing this problem and why it should have happened, his reply was that's what you get if you raise the CR, something is likely to give and in your case the rings or poor quality pistons/rings.
Is 9.6:1 excessive for these engines? As for the Pistons I'm pretty sure they were County which I thought they were decent, but he said he never touches County pistons as they are poor quality.....
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Bearings looked fine, but end float looked excessive. Off to the machine shop this morning to get it all measured.
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Yeah, I rebuilt it.
It was re-bored to +60, new pistons, rings, shells, camshaft, cam followers etc...
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Just a short update. 5 of the 6 Pistons had at least one stuck ring, so reasons for low compression were quite clear.
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Hi guys,
The other day I stumbled across a place called Quiller Triumph and I was wondering if any of you guys had heard of them if so what is the service like there etc.
Cheers guys
We've all heard of them....
Like Mishmosh, I have used them in the past, but would always use others first. PM if you want a less public and more detailed reply.
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No, that's what causes it, as confirmed by two pistons with reduced compression.
A leak test is redundant.
John
I guess so, other than to see if some of the drop is also valve related, but a bit academic I suppose.
This is on an engine that was re-bored and had new pistons & rings 3 years/10-12k miles ago, any thoughts on why failing so soon?
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if you whip the top plate off can you devise where each wire from the plug goes in the motor ??
Pete
Make any sense?
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Bit more than a gentle breeze unfortunately, it leaks mainly from the oil filler cap, rocker gasket and front plate to block (just below the alternator). For a short period I put a cheap crankcase filter on which just made them all leak more as it was increasing the pressure.
I appreciate just adding a catch tank won't help with the pressure, but if routed with a PCV valve and back into the inlet manifold is that going help? If not then I will just have to live with it.
Apart from piston blow-by are there any other causes for excessive pressure? Or is the only likely cause an issue with one or more compression rings? 2 cylinders do have lower compression. I will do a leak test when I get a moment.
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I'm pretty sure my engine is (and has done very a long while) suffering from excessive crankcase pressure, the result of which is a series of small but unstoppable and irritating oil leaks. The engine and gearbox will be coming out in the winter, so I can look to fix properly then, but in the meantime I was wondering if there's any measures to help in the meantime.
Currently the crankcase breathing is open via a hose tucked down the back of the engine, is there any point in using a catch tank and/or a PCV Valve?
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What differences are there between a Bond Equipe and a Herald/Vitesse Chassis?
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Yes it will need doing. Slacken off and re-torque in sequence. Then check Valve Clearance.
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Any ideas guys?
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I bought one from this guy also, good quality item and mine fitted perfectly
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Thanks for all the input. Turned out to be a bit of a tease, but got there in the end. It was the top cover causing the problems and I'll explain the method I used, just in case it helps someone else out at some point.
With the piston and spring in position put the top cover on and put the 4 screws in loosely and make sure the piston moves up & down freely. Start to tighten one of the screws whilst moving the piston up and down, once it becomes slightly sticky go to the diagonally opposite screw and tighten that one, you should feel the piston free up again, keep going until it becomes sticky again and then tighten the first screw a bit more. Keep going back and forth on the 2 screws until they are sufficiently tight and the piston is moving freely. Repeat this process with the other 2 screws and hey presto it works as it should....
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I think the guy bought it, drove it home (apparently it went fine) and then decided to fully restore it, so he done what he felt necessary at the time.15- 20 years later, here we are!
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If you pour stuff into the bores, do some disappear quicker than others? When I say bores I mean block not head.
I filled the 6 bores with the same volume of fluid, within 1 hour 2 were completely empty, 2 had a small puddle, 1 had lost around 50% and the only one with half decent compression retained most. Engine out next week, hoping for just rings and a hone, but will have a measure.
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Twin CD150's on a MK1 Vitesse that's been standing for some years. Carbs seem to have been professionally refurbed but a long time ago.
With the air filters off, if you try to lift the pistons it takes some force to get them to rise, they jerk free and you can lift them freely, but then the don't return down again.
I've cleaned both, and the piston moves freely with the top off and if you just rest the top on the carb body it again moves freely, as soon as you tighten the 4 screws to secure the top it all stiffens up. It's the same on both carbs.
Any ideas?
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Still no better this morning, so off came the head.
This was a reconditioned head, albeit many years ago, but you'll see from the first 2 pictures why No. 2 was so bad. These 2 photos were taken around 20 minutes apart. I've only removed 4 of the valves so far, the mating faces were very shiny on all of them (doesn't show that well in the photo), just like they were fitted without being lapped in.....I guess we'll never know.
I filled the 6 bores with the same volume of fluid, within 1 hour 2 were completely empty, 2 had a small puddle, 1 had lost around 50% and the only one with half decent compression retained most. So not great news really.
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I found the Vitesse prop was just a bit too tight a fit, ended up getting new one made with a sliding joint by Dave Mac Props.
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Engine No. Is HCxxxxx, can get full number tomorrow if there's a brake between recessed and non.
The engine was running fine when the resto was begun, the head had the work done so it could be converted to unleaded. Head refitted but never run, that was 15 plus years ago.
Nothing odd when setting valve clearance, everything seemed normal, but will go through it again.
It got a fair bit of Easystart in it, didn't even think about going, not even a cough.
I have left the bores soaking in penetrating fluid overnight in the hope it improves things just enough to get going. Like you say Clive, if get the engine running and hot and it may fix some of the issues.
I guess there's no harm in re-torquing the head? Will check manifold bolts also.
Any other infor welcomed!
Large or Small Camshaft Bearings
in Engine
Posted
Thanks Pete, missed it in the WSM.