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Darren Groves

TSSC AO
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Posts posted by Darren Groves

  1. Rev Drop with Lights on

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    So when I turn my lights on there is a significant drop in revs, approx 150rpm is that normal? Makes setting a happy idle speed for both day & night time troublesome.

     

    I have a 45amp Lucas alternator, battery volts are fairly constant 14v whether at idle or higher revs, very small drop when lights are switched on so alternator & battery seem to cope with it OK. Lights have standard H4 halogen bulbs.

     

    Any thoughts?

  2. Ram Pipes

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    Good advice guys, thank you.

     

    I changed from K&N's back to standard Air Filter box when I went from HS2's to HS4's to get the cool air flow as Pete mentions. 

     

    I'm liking your idea Clive, got any pics of your converted airbox?

  6. Blown Head Gasket

    in Engine

    Posted

    Hi Pete,

     

    Thanks for the reply.

     

    I re-torqued this morning after about 60 miles of so, was planning to do again after a few hundred. Valve clearances had closed a little afterwards, so all reset. Done another 30 miles or so since and thought I'd have a look over the engine for leaks etc. as you do. I did notice a glistening of what I assume must be oil between the mating faces of block & head. Now this has been a trait of this engine and head combination, has been a bit of a losing battle for it to be relatively oil tight, unlike my previous lump which was pretty good until it went bang!

     

    I like to worry  :)

  7. Blown Head Gasket

    in Engine

    Posted

    So the engine is all back together and running fine. With the cause of the premature failure still a bit of a mystery, Pete's suggestion of under-torqued was a good one, but as the wrench I use tested OK this seems unlikely.

     

    Assuming that the Payen Head Gasket was of sufficient quality, I can't help pondering why it failed early. Now the head was skimmed a fair amount to raise the CR to be better suited to the Fast Road Cam, so it's flatness is pretty assured, BUT what I didn't do was have the block skimmed. So what are peoples opinions that it could be due to the top of the block not being 100% flat and should this be done as a matter of course?

  9. Blown Head Gasket

    in Engine

    Posted

    Just tested the electronic Torque Wrench I always use, I hung a 22.560lb weight at 14" (1.166ft) from the centre of the drive. 22.56 x 1.166 = 26.3185 lb-ft, the wrench read 26.4lb-ft so well within tolerance. Worth doing, at least I can be sure it will be set correctly.

     

    Just out of interest I dug out my old 'clicky' one I used to use, that was under reading by just over 20%.

  12. Blown Head Gasket

    in Engine

    Posted

     

     

    In fairness it was not an electronic wrench, which is the preferred item these days for accuracy.

     

     

     

    Thanks for the replies guys.

     

    The torque-wrench I use is electronic, it buzzes & vibrates, no clicking! Are we saying that electronic ones are more accurate and less in need of calibrating?

  13. Blown Head Gasket

    in Engine

    Posted

    Hi Pete,

     

    I guess under-torqued is a possibility, though I did re-torque twice after the initial fit with a decent quality Snap-on wrench.

     

    I guess the fact it's bored out to +60 only makes a weak spot weaker again.

     

    Will refit once the new HG has arrived, hopefully just gremlins. If it happens again I will reassess.

     

    Darren

  14. Blown Head Gasket

    in Engine

    Posted

    So after only 11 months & 4000 miles my head gasket has blown between No.1 & No.2 cylinder. The gasket was a Payen, so quality should be fine.

    The engine is modified, but nothing nothing too drastic. Bored out to +60, fast road cam, larger valves and CR around 9.6:1.

    Any reason why is should fail where it did, or just bad luck?

    post-31-0-36922500-1458337604_thumb.jpg

  16. wires or minilites

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Darren many thanks for all you great advice, did you have to cut down the m12 studs prior to fitting the minilites or were they long enough?

     

    Regards

     

    Rich

     

    Hi Rich,

     

    No need to trim mine down, they were perfect i length. Best to check when you've inserted the first new stud as if you do need to shorten them it'll be easier off the car.

     

    Cheers

    Darren

  19. wires or minilites

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Hi Rich,

     

    Below is a useful chart, will help you make a decision on the tyres. You also need to consider circumference, you can compare here: http://www.willtheyfit.com/

     

    JBW supplied closed end wheel nuts, you just need to ensure they don't bottom out if you're fitting the longer studs, shave a bit off if they do. I did buy a set of locking wheel nuts as well, but decided not to use them in the end.

     

    Darren

     

     

    Rim width    Minimum tyre width    Ideal tyre width        Maximum tyre width

    5,0 Inches        155 mm                 165 or 175 mm              185 mm

    5,5 Inches        165 mm                 175 or 185 mm              195 mm

  20. wires or minilites

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Hi Rich,

     

    Are you going for genuine Minilites of the JBW ones? One supplier recommended ET25, which would have brought the tyre further inboard, everywhere else said ET20, personally I would go for ET20 as that brings the wheels outward. I ended up going direct to JBW, they price matched an online trader and we're happy to supply the M12 wheel nuts, one supplier flatly refused to do this.

     

    I have 165/70/13's on my 5J wheels, your 165/65's will be absolutely fine, you could go up to 175's if you wanted, but I wouldn't go any bigger than that.

     

    Darren

  21. wires or minilites

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Hi Rich,

     
    I just fitted 13 x 5J's to my Herald with an offset of ET20, so these should be a straight swap for your Vitesse also.

     

    You might want to read this thread: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/1211-alloy-wheel-offset/?hl=offset a wheel stud upgrade is recommended.

     

    If you want a little more detail on how it's done, look here: http://triumphherald1360.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/wheel-stud-upgrade.html

     

    Darren

  22. Rocker Shaft

    in Engine

    Posted

     Don't be too keen on splashing the cash. I could kick myself for wasting so much money.

     

    I was hoping just to do it for the cost of a new shaft, so I think I'll just do that and polish the slight indents of of the tips, it's going to be better than what I have.

     

    Thanks to all.

    • Like 1

  23. Rocker Shaft

    in Engine

    Posted

    Definitely a new shaft, but if you move the rockers onto an unused part of the shaft there is still some play, not huge, but there. Is a small amount of play normal or does that indicate worn rockers also?

  24. Rocker Shaft

    in Engine

    Posted

    You should be able to assess the rocker wear by sliding it along to another none worn part of the shaft.  

     

    I did do that, there was some play, but not a huge amount though it could be felt. What is considered acceptable?

  25. Rocker Shaft

    in Engine

    Posted

    I stripped down my spare rocker shaft today as I was going to refurb to replace the one on the car. The shaft has signs of wear so I was going to replace that as they're fairly cheap. If the shaft is worn, does this mean the actual rockers will be too or does the majority of the wear happen on the shaft? Is it a bad idea to fit old rockers on a new shaft or doesn't matter?

     

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