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Darren Groves

TSSC AO
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Posts posted by Darren Groves

  1. Make sure the engine earth strap is present and making a good connection, it's normally on or around the timing cover, you could test my using a jump lead from the engine to battery earth. 

     

    Maybe starter a bit stiff. You could remove and bench test, but do ensure it's well secured in a vice.

     

    I'm sure others will have more suggestions.

  2. I converted my Herald to an electronic flasher unit, details of how and what I bought to do it is here: http://triumphherald1360.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/electronic-flasher-units.html

     

    The only issue it caused was light on the dash no longer worked, but there is a simple change to the wiring which fixes that. Not sue if the same on a GT6, but if the old relay earths via the dash light then the principle is the same.

    • Like 1
  3. Do you mean the nuts in items 29~31 in the diagram? If so they are all available and cheap so doesn't matter if they won'y go again. I'd just make sure you get a spanner on in that's a good fit so you don't round it off, other than that just apply as much force as necessary.Never had a problem removing before.

     

    gt6early_plate_e.jpg

  4. Does anyone know if the company selling Ribble Kits are still trading? Website is still there www.sammio.co.uk but landline number has an out of service tone and mobile goes straight to voicemail.

     

    Darren

  5. Does anyone know if the company selling Ribble Kits are still trading? Website is still there www.sammio.co.uk but landline number has an out of service tone and mobile goes straight to voicemail.

     

    Darren

  6. Thanks for the replies. My brakes are actually pretty good on my Herald, I have a set of NOS pads at the moment, so it stops well. The discussion about improving brakes comes up regularly but I never see anyone recommending transplanting the set-up from a Vitesse, so thought I'd ask the question.

     

    Cheers

  7. So in the absence of finding a way of calculating what needed skimming off the head to achieve the desired CR, I went to my usual Engine Reconditioner (Willbore in Bideford) who I know pretty well. He started by skimming off 0.020", I remeasured the cc of Chamber, then had another 0.015" off, remeasured then a final 0.010" and that reduced it to 33cc, that gives me a CR of 9.6:1 so very pleased that job is done.

  8. I find it pointless, what's wrong with a sticker.

    Unfortunately yet another reason for not renewing my membership......

     

    Really? There's more to being in a club than being disappointed that you didn't get a window sticker.

     

    I think the tax disc idea was an excellent one.

    • Like 2
  9. Check your Courier back issues.  John D has done articles over recent years.  It's simple geometry, although a little long winded.  You need to measure the area of the combustion chamber first.  How did you get your Cylinder head volume?

     

    Using your figures on my own Excel spreadsheet calculator (unverified - it may have errors) suggests an initial CR of 9.17:1 - I don't do things the long way these days.

     

     

    C.

     

    Edit - moved decimal point.  91.7:1 would be way too high !!!

    Forgot about those articles, will dig them out to read.

     

    Chamber volume was measured using a flat piece of glass, a 50ml syringe filled with anti-freeze (for colour purposes), filled chamber carefully and subtracted what was left from 50. I done it 6 times, got 38ml 4 times 37ml & 39ml once each.

     

    I've found 2 other online calculators, both give results of 8.62:1, so a little lower than the first but not so much.

     

    I did get a response from the supplier of the camshaft, they recommend 9.5:1, using that figure I need to reduce the combustion chamber volume down from 38cc to 33/34cc

  10. Thanks for the the replies.

     

    It's a Newman camshaft and along with the larger valves was recommended by one of the well known (and I believe well thought of) Triumph traders, I asked for their recommendations on both items, just to provide a little more power/torque from standard, nothing drastic, just to make more drivable. I didn't ask and they didn't volunteer if there should be a change to the CR from standard, so I can't be too critical of them. They probably assumed I knew what I was doing.... :rolleyes:

     

    So say I decide on what the CR should be, it will be pretty easy to find out what the CC of the chamber should be to achieve it, but not so on how to calculate the amount that needs machining off the head to achieve it....any ideas?

     

    Thanks

  11. Thanks for the reply Clive.

     

    All UK Spitfire's seem to be 9:1.

     

    Sorry, more questions!

     

    How do I get to know what the most suitable CR is for the engine? Also is there a way of calculating what needs skimming off the head to reach a target figure or will I just have to skim in stages and recalculate each time? What info will I need to calculate a dynamic CR?

     

    Thanks again.

  12. As the car's coming off the road for some bodywork, I thought I'd take the opportunity to get the head off again to remove all the carbon deposits that is causing the engine to run on, as mentioned in my post from August. As you can see from the pictures below it's got pretty choked up in the 4k miles or so since I last took the head off.

     

    decoke_001.jpg

     

    decoke_002.jpg

     

    decoke_003.jpg

     

    decoke_005.jpg

     

    decoke_006.jpg

     

    So I know why my car runs on, but not really why I get carbon build up so quickly and to the extent I do, given that Gunson Colourtune & Gastester & Plug Colour always indicate mixture is good. I swapped to hotter plugs BPR5ES (Yes 'R' as I'm running Megajolt), but probably too late as the car was pretty choked up already, so to start I will use these from day 1 when all back together. I will also check the cam timing once again (3rd time), just to be 100% sure it's spot on.

     

    One thing I didn't do when building the engine was check the compression ratio as my little brain couldn't work out how to calculate manually, however I have since found an online calculator to do all the hard stuff for me - http://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calcsandtools/compression-calculator, so I got all the measurements I needed and it worked out at 8.72:1

     

    decoke_007.jpg

     

    So not far off the standard 8.5:1 it should be, so I'm assuming this is perfectly acceptable? Any thoughts?

     

    I am planning a rolling road session when the car's back together to fine tune the Megajolt and see what needles I need for the SU's (currently AAR, but have been on AAQ for the most part). 

     

    So any thoughts or ideas are welcomed as to the carbon build up?

     

    Happy new year to all!

  13. They didnt want a website for this very reason. If you want four candles (sic) they are the ideal supplier!

     

    Nobody forced them to have one. I'm sure they're a decent bunch of guys, but advertising at one price then charging at a higher one is bad business practice.

  14. How odd. I think they exclude vat on the site. However I use them as they are usually the cheapest! Best to ring them or call in. 

     

    Website includes VAT, even at the higher price they are still a bit cheaper. I only phoned rather than ordered online so I could get a few bits that weren't listed on the website.

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