Iain T

I'll assemble with the cork gasket then turn over with the plug leads off and listen and check for any rub marks on the underside of the cover.

Pete, I thought the same about the screws but after doing some horizontal thinking in bed last night I'm going to try a cork gasket with the ali cover. I think I have enough clearance under the bonnet, I tested the pressed cover using some Blutack stuck to the front of the cover. I hope the extra few millimetres will clear the tappet screws. If I'm bored next week I'll take the rockers off and measure a push rod. Iain

I will and I enjoy mechanical puzzles, it's electrics I don't like!

Pete, I'm not taking the head off! The old valves also went in the bin last year. Discounting the arm geometry it's the tappet screws that stop the Ali rocker cover from fitting. It just blossomed into me investigating why and as usual opening a can of worms! I've refitted the old pressed cover which if I just nip up the nuts just, sometimes, clears the tappet screws.

Wagger the old followers are in the bin. As you say it could be a combination of new cam which will give a maximum natural diameter as its not been reground, new Newmans followers and new renamed rocker assembly.

When I take the rocker assembly off I'll measure the rod as installed. Most of our engines have had a checkered life with god knows what parts used!

Depending on the valve/rocker wipe I need to remove the pedestal shim which would raise the arm above horizontal, ideal, when the valve is closed. However I believe, according to the engine builder, there isn't any adjustment on the arm to achieve the correct tappet clearance. As I said, subject to the contact pattern, I think I need a slightly shorter push rod which would lower the tappet screw and give me clearance under the rocker cover and also give a more ideal rocker arm arc? Iain

I suppose what I should also do is see the wipe pattern of the rocker on the valve stem top?

It's a Vitesse mk2 2 litre. The head has been fully ported, gas flowed etc and the compression is around 9.5/10:1 Using standard 150 CDS carbs but 6S needles. The valves are 'just' proud of the combustion chamber and are new. Before the old valves were very proud, around 2mm. The engine runs fine its me being OCD!

I do have 40 thou pedestal shims but it's the arm moving from horizontal to minus arc that I would like to fix. It should arc equally from horizontal. To achieve that the push rods need to be slightly shorter. I thought Triumph 6 pot rods come in varying lengths?

I could use a cork and the thin gasket I bought with the alli cover. However that won't resolve the incorrect arm orientation. I do have a new billet cam (260 thou lift) from Newmans together with their followers and my original push rods.

Bought an alloy rocker cover from the club shop but on looking at the rocker arms they are horizontal at valve closed. Should be pointing slightly up, it also makes the tappet adjustment screw hit the rocker cover when the valve is open. A fix seems to be shorter push rods? The head has had around 40 thou machined off and a corresponding pedestal shim under the rocker pedestals. I think about 3mm shorter rods would help. Are they available? Iain

Next fit the solenoid and try to start? Iain

On a Vitesse the engine earth is a steel braided strap with one end attached to a bolt at the front of the sump and the other to the chassis. Not sure where a 13/60 earth should be. Iain

You need some hands on help. Have you contacted your local tssc group?

Not sure if the link worked Adjusting a Stromberg carburettor | How a Car Works

If you can idle the car from cold without the choke it indicates its too rich? First off screw idle back to say 700rpm. Ensure the choke screw is still clear of the cam. The only way you have increased revs at a constant speed now as to say last week is slipping clutch or some electrical wizardry wrongly indicating on the counter. If you say the revs are higher now it must be the clutch? However this sounds like a multitude of issues indicated higher revs being just one.

A higher idle can mask an incorrect mixture. I've found I needed to richen the mixture with lower correct idle rpm.

If the clutch was slipping you would notice it when pulling off from stationary. Where in the pedal stroke is the clutch biting? A bit brutal but drive along and gently apply the brake and accelerator at the same time. If the revs rise when decelerating then the clutch is slipping. Another edit, shouldn't your idle be around 6-700rpm?

Leave a 1 to 2mm gap between the head of the screw and the cam.

Well spotted!

The screw will adjust the idle revs. Unlock the nut and unscrew to lower revs. I have no experience with 13/60 but I think the throttle guide should not be able to move as in your video.

Can you hear any air being sucked in? Failing that it may be time to take the carb off and clean check the flanges, isolator and gaskets.

It does look down. As a belt and braces check undo the four cap screws a couple of turns then see if the piston drops with a clunk. I had a air coming in at the manifold/carb isolator. I wondered why I couldn't tune it then heard the sucking noise!

If there is a gap then the jet needs centering.