Hicks
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Posts posted by Hicks
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
The actual body area here is in three parts; inner sill, strengthener, and outer sill. I was thinking that if rust has not gone right through to the outer sill, the panel below the door that you can see from outside, then it should be okay, but on rethinking it could be a new sill replaced over extensive rust. The more I thought about it, the more I realised it's an easy coverup for extensive rot, and the strengthener is exactly as it says, the support for the largely cosmetic sills. It could look okay from outside but be rotten in behind. Your inner sill looks fine but that rust looks to be the strengthener in between both panels; you may be able to see what it's like using a mirror and light through the holes in the inner sill but to be honest you might need to remove the outer panel, as Wimpus says, to see what it's really like in behind.
Ah! Ok - Got you - Thanks for your reply again :).
OK I will try and get my head in and around that area tomorrow with a torch and see if I can get a better understanding of what I'm dealing with - Now I know the layout it'll make a lot more sense!
Thanks!
James
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3 hours ago, wimpus said:
Only thing to do is remove the outer panel lower part and have a look.
For the outer and inner part (thats rotten on yours) they sell repair panels.
Ive done it on mine over the new year holiday.
Thanks for your reply! I think I understand what you mean - Is the curve I can see in the top right of your photo the curve at the back of the door frame?
What is that panel called?
Thanks!!
James
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
As you say not easy to get to; poke the outer sill in that area and see how bad that is. The inner part looks fine so if a screwdriver or hammer doesn't go right through the metal when you test it, kill the existing rust with Jenolite and either pour primer down into it, (which will come out over the sills so mask off round the drain holes) or else just pour Dynatrol / Waxoyl in to stop it getting any worse. If it's not so bad to be an MOT failure it'll soldier on for years.
Hi Colin - Thanks for your reply :).
It passed an MOT just before I got it back to start working on it (thinking I only had a bit of rust management to do and I'd have it back on the road.. win some, lose some..) - When you say the inner section looks ok, do you mean the extra sort of 'girder' that's welded to the body? The rust wouldn't have been seen during an MOT test though - it was behind all the inner trim etc..?
If I poke something through the holes to where the rust is it does crumble away quite easily, but the actual outside of the car seems fairly solid? There is a seam/ joint between the outer sill and the back arch which looks like its previously had some filler in and has re-cracked - needs a clean up and re seal, but the metal seems ok?
When you say to poke the outside, do you mean to poke through from the inside, or the actual outside of the body?
Thanks for your help!
James
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Hi all,
Work finally continues after the monstrosity that was winter..
I got stuck towards the end of last year as I came across some rather nasty looking rust in the side skirts of the inside of the car (forgive me for not knowing the correct name for the area).
I am assuming that over the years water has got into the body cavity via where the roof frame attaches to the inside - water has then run down inside the body cavity, and this has resulted in rust at the bottom of this area, behind the strengthening plates welded to the insides.
I of course didn't discover this until I took all the carpeting etc out to check if any work needing doing on the floor pan - which has allowed it to get a lot worse than would happen elsewhere, when I can see it and immediately deal with it.
Has anyone seen this before? How did you deal with it? It's obviously in a tricky place to get to..
Photos attached..
Any help and/or advice hugely appreciated.
I hope everyone is getting out and enjoying the spring sun!
James
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On 16/09/2020 at 17:38, NonMember said:
Haha! Yes, I can understand the feeling but sometimes grinding the (cheap and easy to replace) bolts away is the easiest way to avoid damaging some expensive part.
ha - yeah that's a very fair way of looking at it - I haven't been able to work on the car for a few weeks again as I was stuck recording again - the adventure starts again now. Very excited!
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On 13/09/2020 at 21:40, NonMember said:
I think all the bumper attachments on late Spitfires are a bolt through from inside the bodywork into a captive nut in the bumper. The early ones have some brackets on the rear but they're still bolted to a captive nut in the bumper. You may need to get brutal - drill or grind the bolt off, remove the quarter valances to detach the ends and push the bolt remnants through and out. Once the bumper is off you can figure out how to weld new nuts onto it.
😭😭😭 Waaah. I don't want to start grinding off bolt heads :(((. All I want to do is get at some bloody rust hahaha ha
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19 hours ago, chrishawley said:
Have you got the bumper off successfully yet?
If not:
The proper way a Spit 1500 bumper is fixed is with four 3/8th UNF bolts (9/16 AF head). Two are through the quarter valances into a weld nut on the bracket on the bumper. The other two are located at the hinge boxes and go through the bumper into weld nuts on the top face of the hinge box. The only other fixings are four 7/16th bolts securing the plastic overriders.
The bolts on the hinge box are very difficult to get access to with the bonnet fully up. But if the bonnet is propped halfway up a socket on a medium length wobble extension bar will go on ok (or a cranked extension piece will do). Or remove bonnet entirely.
Different size heads means a PO has done a work round at some point. On the valance fittings it's common for the welded nut to have shear off. Not to big a worry since, with delicate fingers, there's enough space to replace with a conventional nut and bolt and that works fine. The center fittings when seized are mostly like to shear the nut before pulling the weld nut off. Usually possible to drill out the stub and retap the thread. Or reweld a nut.
But as you say your nuts are very much not welded on .......If there is a 'free' nut on the valance fitting then possibilities are a) to sacrifice a spanner by grinding it down so it can be slid in or b) Wedge a screwdriver (pref an disused one) forcibly between the nut and the bracket or c) as per previous post, grind.
Hope that helps a bit
Ah. OK. Beautiful thank you so much for the clarification on all of that. I thought I was going insane!
Yep definitely not welded on for me - I've only had a quick look at far right and left side bolt and nuts so far to get an idea and had no luck with either, so walked away before I started causing any damage..
Maybe removing the bonnet completely and working around the bumper at the front with the bonnet off would be a better bet than trying to tackle getting the bumper off..
I'll have another go at it now I actually have some clue what it's SUPPOSED to look like though. Thank you so much!
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On 11/09/2020 at 18:13, Rabbit said:
HELP! I received from DVLC a request letter to road tax my 1968 Spitfire which obviously is tax exempt so no tax would be payable which they stated. It has been off road and Sorned for 24 years (don't ask) but is now ready for the road. Sat down on PC, typed in all details and low and low and behold . . . No record found of this vehicle! I tried 2 16 digit numbers, still no joy. I decided to ring DVLC . . . . well, that was a total waste of energy and time, 11 phone calls all finished up with 'We very busy etc etc, ring back later. I was really wondering if I can drive on the road to take it for MoT. It is insured, has been for 3 years. I am intending to visit the local police station to see if I am legal etc. Thought there may be some advice from others in same boat. I am not wanting a 'Age Related plate' etc. Thanks.
Also - Just to add - If you actually want to get an answer out the DVLA use the webchat, don't phone them
- Same with the HMRC. The people on the phones generally aren't that great unless you super sweet talk them - the people on the webchat portal are lovely - super knowledgable - you get through to them way faster, and you get a transcript of the full conversation afterwards to prove exactly what's been said.
I recently needed to sort out a load of mis-matched information on my spitfire (wrong engine size, wrong registered keeper name, changing vehicle tax class etc) - Hopped on the webchat and got all the info I needed in a matter of minutes, printed it all off, including the transcript, sent off a big fat envelope and a week later a nice shiny new log book came back with all my up to date details in
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James
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Hi all,
I'm trying to remove the front bumper from my Spitfire 1500 - Am I missing a trick here? There doesn't seem to be anything in any manuals or online that implies this should be difficult..
It's a chrome bumper, bolt head inside the engine bay, nut is inside a small square frame behind the bumper - I can't seem to get any kind of spanner, or ring spanner or anything in to go round the nut to hold it in place to crack it off..?
Are the nuts supposed to be welded on? They very much are not on mine - I also think they're slightly different sizes on different mounting points as well, implying a previous owner has obviously swapped out the bumper or something at some point, so this job is obviously possible.. Need to get it off to do a load of rust proofing work - Everything else on the front end of the car is done - The bumper is giving me a right headache..
James
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4 hours ago, SpitFire6 said:
I have GT6, Spitfire & TR6 Haynes manuals.
And that covers your set up ok :)? You have the same set up right :)? (just been looking at your site)
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5 hours ago, thescrapman said:
You really only need a GT6 Haynes manual. The few remaining differences will be obvious, or just ask here.
PI sounds better when on the driveway revving it by the way... 🙂
Does it now 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
Interesting.
My housemate has an old BMW from the 80s that has some sort of injection system in it - I'm not sure what he's done to it but the smell that comes out of that car 😂. You can't drive behind him 'cause you just end up getting dizzy.
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5 hours ago, SpitFire6 said:
Hi James,
The diff would be a 3.89 or a 3.63 or a 3.27.
If you have a speed GPS app on your phone;
Drive a constant speed like 60MPH for example and note RPM in 4th gear Without overdrive energised if fitted,Goto http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/
Input your rear tyre size.
You can input one of the above ratio's or just select spitfire1500 or both GT6's.
Match your engine RPM to speed and you have found your diff.If you cannot drive the car you will need to get under it
If under it, look for rubber doughnuts or any CV's.
Measure the rear track. Only useful if you have OEM wheels.
The above information will confirm your rear end if it is Triumph.I don't think there is a quicker way?
PS. You could use your car speedo, but it could be inaccurate or out of calibration. Tacos are normally pretty good. Nice with refried beans. RPM gauge is normally believable.
3.27 is my preferred diff for a spit2500. Best for the motorway.
Cheers,
Iain.
Ok thanks Iain! When I've got the car back I'll have a look - I know the RPM and Speedo are both actually pretty much bang on so shouldn't be too difficult!
Can do Pete's method above as well to clarify :).
I'm trying to remember off the top of my head what it used to run at but it's been such a long time since I bombed it down the motorway.. I feel like it used to sit at around 3000 at 70, but that was with OD engaged.. Can't remember..
Also now I want tacos - I made refried beans for the first time a couple of days ago and they were extremely tasty (if I may say so myself).
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On 29/07/2020 at 15:22, SpitFire6 said:
What GT6 rear is it? What ratio diff?
Cheers,
Iain.
PS Nice car. I like they have been able to use a spit bonnet.
I'll be 100% honest - I don't know the answer to either of these questions and I wouldn't know how to find out!
Is there a way I can find this information out easily?
James
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On 29/07/2020 at 14:22, JohnD said:
No reason not to fiddle with Pi. justknow hwat does hwat!
See: http://www.lucasinjection.com/Lucas Mk2 manual page 26.htm "EFFECTS ON FUEL DELIVERY PERFORMANCE WHEN ADJUSTING CALIBRATION SCREWS"
These pages inlcude the whole Lucas Pi manual. You'll need page http://www.lucasinjection.com/Lucas Mk2 manual page 24.htm and this diagram to interpret:
If you (as do I) prefer the printed page, then the Wheatsheaf Press of Wilmslow do a facsimile edition:
The Printworks, Lacey Green, Wilmslow, SK9 4BQ 01625-530530
I'm really interested to get the car back, get the manuals out and see how it all used to go together with this PI set-up. I'm also tempted to try and get hold of the previous owner who did all the modifications and see if it was him that converted it from PI to carbs, or whether when he bought the engine it already had carbs bolted to it.
Really cool that they had the original fuel injection system on them though - Is it something people the began to change back once they discovered it was actually a good system, or had it just got to much of a band name by then?
James
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On 29/07/2020 at 12:33, SpitFire6 said:
Here is one for the engine:
Apologies for the lackluster response - Life took over for a couple of weeks there..
Perfect thanks - Going to start ordering all these manuals now - Car should be back with me soon :)!
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19 hours ago, JohnD said:
But boy! The Torque!
Lucas Pi was developed by them for use on racing Jaguars in the 50s. The version on Triumphs had to be a simplified one, the Jags had two shuttles each! But it was the first use of fuel injection in a production car , in the world. It did work, but Triumph being Triumph and never liking to spend any money, didn't on training their dealers. So when the cars came in for service the mechanics fiddled with the metering units, like they were carburettors, and lost tune. As a result, Lucas Pi got a wholly unjustified reputation for unreliability, when in fact they do not need the regular adjustment that a carb does. Moreover, the same Lucas Pi was adopted by Ford, for racing Capris and by Maserati for production cars. It was more than "quirky", it was excellent - and still is.
But time had not stood still since the 50s. even if Lucas had persevered with developing a mechanical system. Within a few years, Bosch delivered the K-jetronic, despite its name also a wholly mechanical system, but agricultural in comparison to the Multi-port, pulsed, timed Lucas system, using a single constant flow injector, modulated by an air vane for flow. But cheap as chips, it was taken up by many manufacturers, including Lucas. And very soon itself replaced by the type of electronically controlled multiport, timed injection we have today.
Lucas Pi was a victim of progress and parsimoney!
huh! How cool! Got some reading to do it would seem :).
I guess it would be kind of fun to have the car running on fuel injection.. I do love fiddling with carbs though - it gives me a good excuse to make a disgusting amount of noise on the driveway and annoy the neighbours..
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19 hours ago, NonMember said:
Indeed not, as indicated by the meaning of "PI". It stands for "petrol injection". They had a somewhat... quirky Lucas mechanical injection system. It worked well... at sea level, over a narrow engine speed range, when just set up and with everything in good order... as long as you weren't too fussed about emissions or economy. 🙄
hahahaa - sounds like I may have got away with a better option then.. 🤔 Sounds interesting though - I'll have to look it up! Would be cool to see what the original injection systems looked like!
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
Really?!!
You would be silly not to upgrade.
Doug
I'm all ears for any ideas people have to make things safer/ better/ more robust
James
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2 hours ago, JohnD said:
Hicks,
Despite the above, IMHO Spitfire front suspension and braking is fine for a six cylinder engine, the GT6 stuff isn't significantly different, as is the transmission, until you get to the halfshafts. Rotaflex rubbers have a shorter life with 2.5L of torque, even proper ones, swing axle/spring halfshafts have a stress point just before the wheel bearings, and the wheel bearings ow youthemselves are just weedy. You may want to think on't, as many have replaced them with more modern CV joints and uprights for proper wheel bearings and shafts. And what a pity yours got carburettors if it was Pi engine!
But it looks wonderful! And no doubt drives well too, Enjoy!
John
Hi John! Ahh well, its already on there now, so if it ain't broke I guess?
As for everything else you mentioned.. I think I'm going to have to wait 'til my manuals turn up before I know what you're talking about 😬!!
It's a beaut when it's running, that's for sure!
Did the PI engines not normally have Carbs then?
Thanks John :)!
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Ha. Exactly!
I don't think any new bolts have been made since the 80s. Just everytime someone takes a triumph apart, there's enough leftover that go back into the system and keeps the automotive industry going!
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Hi Pete :),
OK perfect! Thanks so much. That sounds like a great starting point to get my swot on :). Time to have a trawl through ebay and see what I can find.
Thanks all!!
James
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Hi Colin! Ah ok nice!
Don't need to do anything as such at the moment - I just have a brain that likes to know how everything I'm using works - With a modern car I figure I don't have a chance because it's all ECUs and chips, but with mechanical things I can actually read about - great! The thirst for knowledge only ever rises!
It would be nice to know all the little things I can do to make sure I'm keeping in the car in peak condition as well - and how to do that without taking it apart and then putting it back together and being left with 4 bolts sitting on the drive.. 🤔
James
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Hi Kevin :)!
Yes GT6 suspension front and back and big juicy ventilated discs at the front 👍.
Ok so 2500 saloon manual, GT6 manual and dolomite manual for the gearbox i guess? 😬
Thanks for your help!
James
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Hey Pete!
Thanks for such a quick response!
Yeah I knew it was going to be a bit of a deep dive when i went for it - but hey - that's the best way to learn right :)?
Everything on the car has had major major upgrades to handle the engine upgrade - there was a huge list that came with the car - it stops faster than most modern cars I've owned 😂.
In terms of the gearbox - that's a minefield - that's a hybrid as well (quote) "Dolomite 18/50 gearbox mated to a GT6 bell housing. J type overdrive. "
The car is actually off having a bit of TLC at a friend's garage at the moment because it had been off the road for a while - so I want to start reading up so I can tinker going forward and finally get myself good and stuck in!
Ok so the 2500 saloon Haynes manual will be for the engine I have? Then I have various bits of GT6 for suspension throughout the car.. There's some Dolomite and some Vitesse in there as well I think..
When it works it's bloody gorgeous - I just need to know how to gently tend to it when it doesn't 😂.
This is the car :)! - (should auto start at around 1:40..)
Thanks for your help!!
James
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- Same with the HMRC. The people on the phones generally aren't that great unless you super sweet talk them - the people on the webchat portal are lovely - super knowledgable - you get through to them way faster, and you get a transcript of the full conversation afterwards to prove exactly what's been said.
You would be silly not to upgrade.
Garage / Workshop / Storage Space Needed - Canterbury
in General
Posted
Hi all,
We're moving out of our band house, and moving in with friends for a while, and I need somewhere to put my spitfire (where I could work on it) - I was in the middle of removing bits and bobs from the car, and attempting to de-rust/ weatherproof it, when I ran short of time and went away for the winter.
I'm based just outside of Canterbury (Dover direction), and wondered whether anybody had any kind of garage space/ workshop space etc that they were looking to rent out?
Any help would be hugely appreciated - I need to move it asap - Transporter trailer and friend with 4x4 is ready to go - I just desperately need to find a space for it!
All the best,
James