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Roger K

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    Late '73 GT6 MkIII

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  1. Careful now, chaps... Who currently owns the Triumph brand?
  2. Wow. Very glad we're not working this week - not on again until Saturday. Pity our centre manager if they don't get it fixed....
  3. Thanks Chris, I slept on it and came back to look at it today. Sometimes you just need to stop and leave it... Yes, careful repositioning has got them both in place. It didn't help that the small bracket fixing them to the glove box brace had been fitted the wrong way around. It's a bit of a monkey puzzle on the LHS, probably because the structure of the car was never designed with all this extra more modern comfort in mind. Thanks for the offer of help, though. Roger
  4. Thanks Doug, that's the diagram from the MkIII parts book, which I have. The problem 'eyeball' is the LH side footwell one, which I think is no.72 in the diagram - but the numbering doesn't make sense to me, as the hose in the correct position for this is 614347, which doesn't attach to anything in the diagram. There isn't room for it anyway, so I think it must be a case of push everything together really hard and hope nothing cracks or gives way.
  5. Can anyone tell me how the fresh air eyeball vent ducting is supposed to go on a Mk3 GT6? For the life of me I cannot get the passenger's side footwell eyeball into position. I've tried all variations on angles of pipe and which goes where, but the two mounting holes into the parcel shelf are nowhere near. They were not properly fastened when I dismantled them, and were not pointing at the footwells so I don't have much to go on. I really don't want to lose these vents but just leaving them off seems the only way at the moment. Anyone any ideas? Thanks, Roger
  6. I might bridle at that suggestion, but it could stirrup some trouble. I'm not sure hoof for, though, as long as it's not me. Let's keep things stable for now and not gallop to any conclusions that might canter act any benefit.
  7. I find that my motoring decisions are getting weirder the longer I am retired. With the GT6 still not quite done (ahem), and the XK shell back from the paintshop in a week or two, I seem to have bought a pre-war Riley special. I may be too old to learn how to use an Armstrong preselector, time will tell. These are definitely the busiest days of my life...
  8. I counted down to retirement from week 2 of starting work, in 1979... Retired from clinical work in 2015, and retired as NHSE adviser in 2016. I'm now a full-time car mechanic, worked off my feet. I've just bought a 1937 Riley, not entirely sure why...
  9. The cable's actually still attached to the speedo. When I say 'bench', I mean trying to attach it to the angle drive with the angle drive not mounted on the gearbox. Maybe there's a difference in the cable inner length for an overdrive cable? The one I'm trying to attach the angle drive to is the original non-o/d cable, which I left in as it's plenty long enough. Maybe that's the problem.
  10. Thanks Pete - I'll fit a copper washer inside the retaining cap to the gearbox. Does it matter what thickness? If the cable goes under the solenoid, I don't need to trim the floor, but it's an absolute sod to attach the cable to the angle drive with the solenoid in the way. Any ideas why the cable won't go all the way into the angle drive, even on the bench? It's a good 1/8" off the outer seating on the angle drive body, and I don't want to force it. Cutting the end off the cable inner isn't ideal, as the square forming to the end of the cable inner is set and sawing through it will fray the end strands out making life difficult.
  11. Just tried to fit the speedo angle drive, no luck... Two things: does the required washer go between the angle drive and the gearbox, or the angle drive and the speedo cable? I presumed it was the gearbox side, but the cable I have won't go fully into the angle drive. Is that where the washer should be? Secondly, how should the angle drive be orientated? Should it be nose down, so the cable passes beneath the solenoid? If I try to fit so the cable goes over the solenoid, the top screw on the angle drive is pressed up hard against the floorpan, see photo.
  12. Pete, do you mean 3/8"? Just tried a 7/16" and it's too big. What type of washer - steel, copper or fibre? I think there is a sealing surface inside the right angle drive, and a simple stamped-out 3/8" steel washer might allow a leak.
  13. Thanks - so I want just a little bit of play at the pedal to master cyl clevis, so the master cyl is fully relaxed.
  14. I may not have been clear enough - I have an adjustable master cylinder pushrod, the clutch slave cylinder pushrod is fixed. I can't rotate the adjustable master cyl pushrod as it has a clevis fork to the pedal. So, the advice is to set the length of the master cylinder pushrod to just before the slave cylinder pushrod goes tight - i.e. can still be rotated easily? The master cyl piston may be slightly compressed to achieve this.
  15. That's interesting - the old pushrod was an adjustable one, which had been (badly) welded solid at some time. The new cylinder I bought is a genuine Girling one which came with an adjustable pushrod ready fixed, of the correct length. I guess I just adjust it to get the pedals level, just off moving the pushrod. The new springs from Canley are fine, same shape as the old but actually a bit stronger (maybe just newer).
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