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Roger K

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Everything posted by Roger K

  1. Careful now, chaps... Who currently owns the Triumph brand?
  2. Wow. Very glad we're not working this week - not on again until Saturday. Pity our centre manager if they don't get it fixed....
  3. Thanks Chris, I slept on it and came back to look at it today. Sometimes you just need to stop and leave it... Yes, careful repositioning has got them both in place. It didn't help that the small bracket fixing them to the glove box brace had been fitted the wrong way around. It's a bit of a monkey puzzle on the LHS, probably because the structure of the car was never designed with all this extra more modern comfort in mind. Thanks for the offer of help, though. Roger
  4. Thanks Doug, that's the diagram from the MkIII parts book, which I have. The problem 'eyeball' is the LH side footwell one, which I think is no.72 in the diagram - but the numbering doesn't make sense to me, as the hose in the correct position for this is 614347, which doesn't attach to anything in the diagram. There isn't room for it anyway, so I think it must be a case of push everything together really hard and hope nothing cracks or gives way.
  5. Can anyone tell me how the fresh air eyeball vent ducting is supposed to go on a Mk3 GT6? For the life of me I cannot get the passenger's side footwell eyeball into position. I've tried all variations on angles of pipe and which goes where, but the two mounting holes into the parcel shelf are nowhere near. They were not properly fastened when I dismantled them, and were not pointing at the footwells so I don't have much to go on. I really don't want to lose these vents but just leaving them off seems the only way at the moment. Anyone any ideas? Thanks, Roger
  6. I might bridle at that suggestion, but it could stirrup some trouble. I'm not sure hoof for, though, as long as it's not me. Let's keep things stable for now and not gallop to any conclusions that might canter act any benefit.
  7. I find that my motoring decisions are getting weirder the longer I am retired. With the GT6 still not quite done (ahem), and the XK shell back from the paintshop in a week or two, I seem to have bought a pre-war Riley special. I may be too old to learn how to use an Armstrong preselector, time will tell. These are definitely the busiest days of my life...
  8. I counted down to retirement from week 2 of starting work, in 1979... Retired from clinical work in 2015, and retired as NHSE adviser in 2016. I'm now a full-time car mechanic, worked off my feet. I've just bought a 1937 Riley, not entirely sure why...
  9. The cable's actually still attached to the speedo. When I say 'bench', I mean trying to attach it to the angle drive with the angle drive not mounted on the gearbox. Maybe there's a difference in the cable inner length for an overdrive cable? The one I'm trying to attach the angle drive to is the original non-o/d cable, which I left in as it's plenty long enough. Maybe that's the problem.
  10. Thanks Pete - I'll fit a copper washer inside the retaining cap to the gearbox. Does it matter what thickness? If the cable goes under the solenoid, I don't need to trim the floor, but it's an absolute sod to attach the cable to the angle drive with the solenoid in the way. Any ideas why the cable won't go all the way into the angle drive, even on the bench? It's a good 1/8" off the outer seating on the angle drive body, and I don't want to force it. Cutting the end off the cable inner isn't ideal, as the square forming to the end of the cable inner is set and sawing through it will fray the end strands out making life difficult.
  11. Just tried to fit the speedo angle drive, no luck... Two things: does the required washer go between the angle drive and the gearbox, or the angle drive and the speedo cable? I presumed it was the gearbox side, but the cable I have won't go fully into the angle drive. Is that where the washer should be? Secondly, how should the angle drive be orientated? Should it be nose down, so the cable passes beneath the solenoid? If I try to fit so the cable goes over the solenoid, the top screw on the angle drive is pressed up hard against the floorpan, see photo.
  12. Pete, do you mean 3/8"? Just tried a 7/16" and it's too big. What type of washer - steel, copper or fibre? I think there is a sealing surface inside the right angle drive, and a simple stamped-out 3/8" steel washer might allow a leak.
  13. Thanks - so I want just a little bit of play at the pedal to master cyl clevis, so the master cyl is fully relaxed.
  14. I may not have been clear enough - I have an adjustable master cylinder pushrod, the clutch slave cylinder pushrod is fixed. I can't rotate the adjustable master cyl pushrod as it has a clevis fork to the pedal. So, the advice is to set the length of the master cylinder pushrod to just before the slave cylinder pushrod goes tight - i.e. can still be rotated easily? The master cyl piston may be slightly compressed to achieve this.
  15. That's interesting - the old pushrod was an adjustable one, which had been (badly) welded solid at some time. The new cylinder I bought is a genuine Girling one which came with an adjustable pushrod ready fixed, of the correct length. I guess I just adjust it to get the pedals level, just off moving the pushrod. The new springs from Canley are fine, same shape as the old but actually a bit stronger (maybe just newer).
  16. Thanks, I'll add one. Is there a setting for the adjustable pushrod on the clutch master cylinder? I can't find any mention of how to set it in the workshop manual.
  17. Should the clutch pedal have a return spring inside the car, like the brake and accelerator have? Mine didn't have one, but I think the parts book shows one.
  18. No, I'm not fitting an MX5 'box! Just the standard 'D' type overdrive 'box in place of a straight 4-speed. Quite by chance, Nick's car looks to be Carmine as well as mine which confuses matters. Thanks all, I've cut the tunnel to give minimal clearance whilst I come to a decision about which cover plate to use. The gearbox is back in, new clutch engaged nice and easily and tomorrow I'll get all the bellhousing bolts back in properly. One more question - the parts book seems to show that b/h bolts go through from the back facing forwards, nuts on the engine side. Rather oddly, the spring washer is shown under the head of the bolt, on the aluminium bellhousing side, and just a full nut on the engine side. Is that right? Seems an odd way of doing it to me, I'd expect the spring washer under the nut on the engine bay side. Colin, those dimensions are brilliant, thanks very much. I may well go that route - but would you mind measuring the other cover, 611938, so that I can do a comparison? Sorry to ask for more...
  19. Wow, that's radical. Thanks Nick. For the more usual D-type box, apart from the cut out at the top of the tunnel, did the factory cut any metal away for the speedo right-angle drive? Not sure it's strictly necessary.
  20. Thanks very much Colin, really helpful. I know what you mean about the Spitfire version, but I'm trying hard to keep the car as correct as I reasonably can. I've attached a photo of what I think I need, although the white marking is the probable size of the plate, not the hole. It's difficult to know where to measure from - the handbrake mount might be best, as I don't know if the overdrive and non-o/d cars have the same profile to the cut hole in the metal tunnel, if you see what I mean. The mounting holes for the padded knee trim might give some clues as well. If I know how far back the panel should come, and how wide it is if straightened out, I can probably work out the rest. Thanks for the ebay link - making that doesn't represent much of a challenge so I'll save on postage!
  21. Thanks Colin, that looks great - I'd be very grateful if you could post some dimensions of the correct plate. If you have dims for the cut out, that would also be really helpful - but I'm guessing that might be more tricky. If the panel's off the car, any chance of a paper template of the entire piece, with holes etc. marked? Sorry, I don't ask for much, I know... I'll start an ebay search for 611938 - and get my tin snips out just in case. Super-speedy response from all, thanks very much. Roger
  22. Thanks Pete, I have the mounting plate and mount. I can see there's no underside access, but if I moved the engine forward 5-6" that would do it. A lot more work, though. I've found mention of a panel, YKC1486, which was used on the 1500 Spitfire. Does anyone know for sure if this would have been fitted to a MkIII GT6? I don't remember one from my old o/d MkIII, but that was a long time ago now. I didn't really want to cut this bodyshell, but I may have no choice... I have found photos of YKC1486 - I can make one, but is it right for GT6?
  23. I have a nasty feeling I'm discovering the hard way that it's not possible to fit an overdrive gearbox to a non-overdrive GT6 MkIII from inside the car. It's sitting in there, at an angle in the footwell, and is clearly significantly longer than the non-o/d unit. Was there a difference in the bodyshells for overdrive or non-o/d? Maybe a shorter tunnel, with a cover plate? Or have I got to move, or remove the engine? Roger
  24. I'm toying with the idea of fitting a pair of Lucas LR8 rectangular driving lamps to my '73 GT6, on the front quarter valances below the indicator/sidelight unit. Has anyone done this, or got any decent photos of a GT6/Spitfire with them fitted? I'm thinking that a pair of these with black cases would probably be correct dealer options for 1973/4. Before drilling the valances (which appear to be double skinned), I'd like to see how they look. Thanks Roger
  25. I've edited my question to give the GT6 info - I haven't added the Herald etc. numbers as I don't have experience of these so don't feel qualified to comment.
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