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Roger K

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Everything posted by Roger K

  1. Thanks very much Colin, really helpful. I know what you mean about the Spitfire version, but I'm trying hard to keep the car as correct as I reasonably can. I've attached a photo of what I think I need, although the white marking is the probable size of the plate, not the hole. It's difficult to know where to measure from - the handbrake mount might be best, as I don't know if the overdrive and non-o/d cars have the same profile to the cut hole in the metal tunnel, if you see what I mean. The mounting holes for the padded knee trim might give some clues as well. If I know how far back the panel should come, and how wide it is if straightened out, I can probably work out the rest. Thanks for the ebay link - making that doesn't represent much of a challenge so I'll save on postage!
  2. Thanks Colin, that looks great - I'd be very grateful if you could post some dimensions of the correct plate. If you have dims for the cut out, that would also be really helpful - but I'm guessing that might be more tricky. If the panel's off the car, any chance of a paper template of the entire piece, with holes etc. marked? Sorry, I don't ask for much, I know... I'll start an ebay search for 611938 - and get my tin snips out just in case. Super-speedy response from all, thanks very much. Roger
  3. Thanks Pete, I have the mounting plate and mount. I can see there's no underside access, but if I moved the engine forward 5-6" that would do it. A lot more work, though. I've found mention of a panel, YKC1486, which was used on the 1500 Spitfire. Does anyone know for sure if this would have been fitted to a MkIII GT6? I don't remember one from my old o/d MkIII, but that was a long time ago now. I didn't really want to cut this bodyshell, but I may have no choice... I have found photos of YKC1486 - I can make one, but is it right for GT6?
  4. I have a nasty feeling I'm discovering the hard way that it's not possible to fit an overdrive gearbox to a non-overdrive GT6 MkIII from inside the car. It's sitting in there, at an angle in the footwell, and is clearly significantly longer than the non-o/d unit. Was there a difference in the bodyshells for overdrive or non-o/d? Maybe a shorter tunnel, with a cover plate? Or have I got to move, or remove the engine? Roger
  5. I'm toying with the idea of fitting a pair of Lucas LR8 rectangular driving lamps to my '73 GT6, on the front quarter valances below the indicator/sidelight unit. Has anyone done this, or got any decent photos of a GT6/Spitfire with them fitted? I'm thinking that a pair of these with black cases would probably be correct dealer options for 1973/4. Before drilling the valances (which appear to be double skinned), I'd like to see how they look. Thanks Roger
  6. I've edited my question to give the GT6 info - I haven't added the Herald etc. numbers as I don't have experience of these so don't feel qualified to comment.
  7. Does anyone know the correct seal for late GT6 Mk3 door seals? Mine are incorrect so I have no dimensions to go by.
  8. I used Baines' Mini door seals, which are much more compliant than the Minispares offerings.
  9. Update: I now have Chris's original seal (thanks Chris), and the one Rimmer's and Canley are currently selling as part no. 620656. The Rimmer's and Canley seals are, as far as I can tell, identical. The photo shows, from L to R, Chris's original seal, the Canley seal and the Rimmer's seal. I think the dimensions of all three are almost the same, with the exception that the 'peak' on the original is a little taller, and the original seems to be bit more curved in profile on the surface that seals against the door. This may be down to age, long term storage or different design. The new replacements feel very slightly stiffer, but this may be an age thing (no comments please). These photos show the two installed in the Triumph channel 630578, original first, Rimmer's/Canley below. Not a lot of difference, but the original seal sits a little 'flatter' perhaps. Not having the channel welded into place yet, I can't tell if either seal will affect the door fit. I intend to do this job at some point so will report back once done.
  10. If you are planning to have the body refinished in the near future, I'd probably leave it for the bodyshop, if they're any good. I don't think you'd get that dent out from the outside - and I don't think the body is double skinned at that point, is it? Needs checking, I think you could get access to the back of that. Either way, unless you know what you're doing I wouldn't try to fix that yourself. If you end up stretching or creasing the metal you make the repair a lot more difficult (and expensive).
  11. Yes, the GT6 MkIII needs the recessed shoulder to hold the plastic washer.
  12. Having restored 4As and TR6s in the past, I would take panel gaps with a pinch of salt and wouldn't buy without seeing it up on a lift whilst armed with a good torch, especially an original RHD car.
  13. Further update - the Morris Minor channel is not as good a fit to the Rimmers seal 620656 as the old Triumph channel 630578. The MM one is narrower and not quite as well formed. The Triumph channel is clearly a properly-made production item, whereas the Morris one looks like an aftermarket panel, if that makes sense. The seal slides perfectly into the Triumph channel, and does not pull out easily. It is much tighter in the MM channel, and cannot be slid in, it needs pushing in with a screwdriver and is on the tight side so is not such a neat fit. The problem with the Triumph channel will be removing the spotwelded backing, but that just takes time.
  14. Update - I have received my order from Rimmers which includes: 630578 Retainer boot lid trim strip Germany 620656 Weatherstrip seal Both of these look very promising. The retainer as composed of a long channel that fits the weatherseal perfectly and is more than long enough. It is spot welded to a flat backing piece with mounting holes, but it wouldn't be too difficult to remove this. The channel is fairly delicate and shouldn't be too difficult to bend to shape using the lead filling for support. The packaging is ancient and I don't imagine Rimmers sell very many of them! The seal has the correct dimensions as far as I can tell, but it will be interesting to compare this with Chris's when it gets here. More updates to follow! Roger Edit - the Morris Minor Centre channel has also just arrived, and it is perfect for the job, just needs bending to fit. Four quid and PN EXC130M.
  15. I have placed helicoils into captive plates with success. They're not really designed for them, but if placed carefully will give a stronger thread than the original.
  16. I would try a helicoil to keep the thread size original. You might not be able to tap the helicoil tang out but that probably doesn't matter.
  17. It's FG1307/4, NLA. The clip for the end of the throttle cable's on the diagram, too. https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-gt6-mkiii&diagram=triumph-gt6-mkiii-acceleration-control
  18. Thanks Pete, I've just discovered that it's a Simmonds retainer clip, looks a bit like a plug lead connector inside a distributor terminal. N/A anywhere but I think a new cable comes with it.
  19. I suppose this is fuel system related, ish... Late GT6 MkIII, recently purchased. The throttle cable on this car is quite new. It comes down onto the bulkhead shelf and passes through it to attach to the throttle pedal. The hole in the bulkhead is quite ragged and has clearly either been made bigger or has worn. The cable has a stop flange on the outer, and cannot pass through the hole, so that's OK. But there's a sort of clip wrapped around the cable outer to make it difficult to simply pull up out of the hole. Is this a factory part, or should the cable be a close fit in the hole on its own, relying on the carb and pedal springs to keep it in place? I can't see why this would be needed. I'm not talking about the spring clip that stops the nipple disengaging from the pedal, that's fine.
  20. To summarise, if wanting to fit standard steel GT6 rims with the chrome centres: You need splined studs, not bolts, as outlined above. You need the standard length splined studs, not longer ones. You need the correct chrome blind wheel nuts, currently unavailable anywhere in chromed mild steel but some suppliers have stainless. I'd prefer mild steel to original spec, but not an option currently. You will need to stick to the original 3/8" stud to retain the chrome wheel centre without modification. Converting to 7/16" studs should only be done if using aftermarket wheels. The cone of a larger 7/16" stud does not fit in a standard wheel designed for 3/8" studs - it sits on top of the locating cone instead of engaging with it. Small Triumph wheels are stud centred, not hub centred - i.e. they are located in position on the hub by the conical wheel nuts, not the centre boss of the wheel (this is actually important for balancing too, but nobody seems to notice a difference). If the cones do not engage with each other I would class this as unsafe. Basically, if you want to fit standard steel wheels with the chromed centre trim, you must keep everything standard. A possible alternative would be to machine and fit 7/16" studs (the stud heads don't quite fit behind the smaller hub castings), then get a set of original 3/8" stepped nuts and drill them out and retap to 7/16" UNF. This does remove some 'meat' from the stud, so produces a point of potential failure at the narrowed groove where the plastic washer fits. This might have insurance implications. Be very careful where you buy your studs, and/or hubs. The 3/8" studs from Canley Classics seem OK, but I have had a history of failures with new studs from other suppliers at less than the specified minimum wheel nut torque values. Those suppliers don't seem interested in the problem as yet, at least until the first lawsuit appears.
  21. So much for that idea... just went to check my spare engine and it has no water pump...
  22. I restored a friend's TR6 around 15 years ago - it was a US model, so came with Strombergs. I threw those away and fitted triple 40DCOE Webers - after a decent rolling-road setup, that thing absolutely flew and was much quicker than an injected car. I can't remember what cam we used but with around 10:1 CR and a properly curved distributor it was glorious. Made a glorious noise, too, and not too thirsty. Sidedraught Webers are fixed jet, so once the jetting is done on the RR, including the pump jets, the only fiddling you can do is to synchronize them, so not a lot of adjustment to worry about and no diaphragms etc. to fail. I ran a Healey 3000 with triple 45s for some years, too - great.
  23. Thanks. I have body solder and the kit here (an awful lot of lead on the XK140), and can run it through the blast cabinet afterwards. Probably need to wat until the door's off to get decent access for making up a former and fitting.
  24. Great, I'll give them a try. Anybody know if a Vitesse MkII water pump will work in a late GT6 MkIII engine? Same fit, hopefully?
  25. What do you do if the car you've recently bought has a modern replacement pump and it's leaking?
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