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Roger K

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Everything posted by Roger K

  1. I've just taken my XK140 motor to the machine shop for sorting. It's an early SE engine - it has a 'C'-type head - and it's important because it is matching numbers to the car, a 1955 DHC. The head has the engine number stamped on it too, so it's important to keep them together if at all possible - it makes a big difference to the value of old Jags. It had only done 70k miles (shut away in a Sacramento garage since 1982), so the block was standard bore throughout, and when dismantling I was hopeful of just needing a hone, perhaps - but no such luck as a broken ring had dug in and taken a 0.75mm chunk out of no.6 cylinder wall. So the plan there is a sleeve in no.6, and to be safe a 0.020" rebore. Sleeves done properly are not a problem. How were your thrust surfaces on the block? I seem to remember that's a problem area on the Triumph 6-pot.
  2. Ah, punctuation and grammar. And there are some who think it doesn't matter...
  3. Is that a workshop manual you're using? Doesn't look like mine... I don't think the factory book refers to a stud torque.
  4. Given the sizes, I'd expect the Triumph figure to be similar to the Mini.
  5. I have those on my Cooper S - no problems at all over the last 8 years
  6. There's a big difference between a white wire with a pink tracer, and a pink wire with a white tracer! I mean, you don't want to connect your ignition switch to the radio, and your radio to the coil, do you? I know quite a lot of horn players where the music comes out upside down.
  7. If they're that tight, I don't use the double nuts for the reasons you state, John. They usually just need a twist to get them started, but I guess the stud-gripper would too, so...
  8. They ought to be OK. I'm not a fan of stud removers, preferring the old 'double nut' technique. Just lock two nuts together and undo the lower one with a spanner. I never changed any head studs until I was about 45, and then only due to damage. The oldest vehicle I've worked on with bolts was my '67 Series 2A petrol Land Rover, which had bolts rather than studs. I think there were either 15 or 18, can't remember... it was only a four-pot, which seemed rather overkill to me, as they were pretty thick too. The CR was only 7:1. Bolts or studs, if you're painting the head be sure to clean any paint off the surface under the bolt heads or nuts on the top of the head. If there's any left under it's surprising how it can affect the torque settings of the bolts/nuts, don't ask how I know. A lesson learnt many moons ago with a quite expensive head gasket.
  9. Doug, not quite... The wire you have in your diagram going from terminal 1 on the switch to the solenoid is red/white, not pink/white. This is the starter solenoid feed wire. The white with pink tracer (white/pink) is shown at terminal 5 on your diagram, and is the auxiliary feed (radio etc.). I think you may have confused white/pink with pink/white - i.e. PINK wire with WHITE tracer, which is shown in your diagram connecting a white switch wire to the +ve of the coil and marked 'Ballast Wire'. Edit - interesting, just checked on my car and there is no pink/white going to the coil, only a single white/yellow. This goes from the coil +ve into the main, original harness, at the point where the pink/white wire is visible. Only a little of this wire can be seen as it goes into a factory connector 'blind end', in which it is joined to two white/yellow wires. My coil is 1.7ohms so is presumably for a ballasted system.
  10. Exactly correct, Rob. The pink was extremely faded. Thanks all, connector sorted and switch back in place. For future ref, if any searches in this - on my car, post-KE20000, there is a single slotted screw in the side of the steering lock, retaining the ignition switch in position.
  11. Yep, there was a small slotted screw head on the side of the switch, facing downwards. Switch now successfully out. Could someone advise on the wiring? As per the manual, I have one brown wire, one white with pink tracer, one double connection white, one single connection white. There is also a second single connection white, so I seem to have one more white than the shop manual. I don't have any added accessories, any ideas what this might be? It has a factory-type connector on it. One last question - late GT6 MkIII - should this car have a 6V coil? There's no separate ballast resistor, but I think there may be some resistance wiring in the harness. Do they run 6V all the time? There doesn't seem to be any switching between voltages for 'start' and 'run' conditions.
  12. All very helpful, thanks. I'll see if I can get my head back under there whilst maintaining my focal distance, which never used to be a problem... if I could get the big soft rubber cover off it might help, but I'm guessing that needs the whole lock off to remove as it, too, won't come off in situ.
  13. Ah, OK. So get a fine screwdriver in and twist? The cover on the back is rigid plastic but doesn't fit at all tightly over the switch. The switch wobbles in the back of the steering lock but won't come out by pulling on it.
  14. Thanks Graham. Now, why didn't Triumph include that diagram in the GT6 manual??
  15. Thanks Graham - can't see them easily - are they facing out of the back of the switch, or holding it in at the sides? Do I have to remove the steering lock to get at them?
  16. Late GT6 MkIII with the steering column lock. The column is still in the car. The workshop manual says to remove the cover from the back of the switch, then remove the switch. I've tried pulling on the back of it as much as I dare - there isn't much to get hold of, and I don't want to risk pulling on the wiring - but no joy. Are there any small plungers, tabs, clips etc. they're not telling me about? Or is it just a straight pull backwards? Push a screwdriver between switch and the key part, and twist/lever it out? Not sure how much heft to use without causing damage, so any advice gratefully received.
  17. Well, I removed the Bastuck rear hubs and cleaned everything up for reassembly. I cleaned and painted the old original hubs, and checked them for the grease seal landing - just about OK - and the fit to brake drum. Not OK. Someone, somewhere, in the dim distant past has removed these with a legged puller and they are not flat, with the drum rocking on the hub. A straight edge across the surface reveals some pretty deep dips which were so easy to see I didn't bother to measure with feeler gauges. One was much worse than the other, so I dug out one I bought on ebay a while back - no, just as bad. Eventually I decided to use the Bastuck hubs again. They look very nicely made, and are much more substantial than the Stanpart castings. I can't see any variation in PCD and frankly given the way they look I think that's pretty unlikely. However as I still don't know who makes Rimmers shiny black studs, I have fitted the ones I got from Canley Classics - no. 4 in my first photo. The metal just looks better, somehow.... and I don't trust the shiny look of the others, and I do trust CC. We'll see!
  18. On my old Vitesse, in 1976, it didn't..... I had all the traditional Triumph things go on that, at just 9 years old. Absolutely rotten door bottoms, chassis outriggers non-existent, front trunnion failure with car immovable at a junction for 24hrs, rear axle UJ snapped in half..... can't really complain, I only paid £5 for the car and another £25 for the Sharp radio cassette.
  19. Don't worry, I'll push it very slowly, with wide-radius turns only. My paranoia has even made me drape a heavy cloth over the LH front wheel now that its wheel nuts are done up (only to 30ftlbs), as I don't want one flying off and denting the Cooper S* parked next to it... *That's a thought - the Cooper S also has 3/8" wheel studs, and the figure for those is 40-45ftlbs. Something badly wrong with these studs, as if I didn't already know that.
  20. Typical, might have guessed I wouldn't get away with it. Fitted the original hub back on, and there's a 3/4" gap between the brake drum and the backplate. The trunnion and bearing have moved on the axle shaft, don't know how as the puller doesn't touch it. So it was out with the puller yet again to remove the axle and am working on the bench now. Had to remove everything to start again with the flinger, as pushing it all further in has opened it up a bit and it's loose. Needs tapping back into shape or fitting another, then start again. I still can't quite get my head around the fact that the bearing and trunnion are pushed into place by the hub on the taper, and only retained in position by friction against the axle shaft running through it. Basically, I guess that means that it's the combination of the radius arm and the shock absorber location that hold the vertical link in the correct position. Why couldn't Triumph have fitted a nice, simple little live axle at the back? The front suspension, steering, drivetrain (diff excepted) are almost masterpieces in such a small package. Pity the back end is so poor as it really lets down what is otherwise a brilliant design. Really bored with this now, and still don't have great confidence in any of the wheelstuds that started all this. Rimmers still haven't told me who makes their replacements. I'll be glad when the XK is back from the paintshop and I can push this to the back of the workshop!
  21. I also have one like that. I can't remember (again) where I got it, but it really needs two to operate as it's seriously heavy. Not sure I'd want to use a slide hammer like that on a weedy Triumph rear hub, I suspect the tool and half the diff would end up on the floor...
  22. It's an amazing old thing - I bought it direct from VL Churchill of Northants in around 1980. It's made of that really smooth black steel and weighs an absolute ton. It was supplied with a little hessian bag containing a selection of end caps to slip over the shaft it presses against, and a set of tapered nuts to use on the threads - but as they seem to be BSF they haven't fitted anything I've used it on thus far. I think it does TR hubs, too, as there's a second radius internally and the holes will take a 7/16" stud. Still got the purchase invoice somewhere - I think it was around £80-90. I've got another one that's even bigger, but I can't remember what it's for!
  23. The fractures of the bolt heads on pulling with the puller have the same coarse granulated appearance as the fractured stud bases on the other side. I have mentioned trading standards in both emails to Rimmers and Bastuck, so will see what they say further. Not sure I am comfortable using the replacement studs Rimmers sent me as they still haven't told me who makes them, or where they were made. The stepped ones from Canley are looking more attractive all the time!
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