[Oiling /Greasing Trunnions]

1 hour ago, Mathew said:

Trunnions I have an old oil can with the lever pump type. The end that goes inside the grease nipple hole is filed to fit snug! Then i pump till the oil appears from the seal. 

I use exactly the same method only my oil can didn't need filing. 

[Oiling /Greasing Trunnions]

20 hours ago, Wagger said:

Just to say that I used Colins method to OIL the front Trunnions this morning using an oil can into the Nipple holes, having removed them. It was a doddle. When I use oil in the grease gun, I always end up with oil in the armpit via the elbow. Does not do much for the arthritis and makes the shirts stink!

I have been using this method for years with just a bog standard £3.99 Halfords oil can. It works a treat. 

[Twisted anti roll bar]

2 hours ago, clive said:

You should be able to disconnect one end ofthe arb and see if that changes anything?

I didn't think of that. I will give it a try. Thanks Clive

[Twisted anti roll bar]

I know in theory a twisted ARB could make a difference in the front ride height left to right but in practice does it.

My Vitesse sites about 2.5cm higher at the front  on the left.

I have just replaced the shocks as it had odd ones fitted on the front at some point in its past and one of the shocks had just started to leak. But in doing this it has made me wonder why it sits at different heights.

One of my thoughts is has it had a spring replaced on one side when the single shock was replaced.  I did check the spring free height and they are the same but am wondering if one of them is a heavy duty spring. I am going to swap the springs left to right to see if the problem moves or stays to rule this out but I did also notice the ARB had a twist.

Could a twisted ARB cause this much difference in ride height what are peoples thoughts.

Mark

[Herald heater fan]

Have you taken the heater matrix out of the heater box. I found mine had 50 years of crud sitting on top of the matrix restricting the air flow. What air did go through mainly went round the edge as foam seal had perished. Also worth pointing out there is no foot well only setting. Its either off, footwell and demist or demist only.  

Mark

[Oil Leak from somewhere behind the timing cover plate]

If it is just the thread stripped in the alloy block you can always Helicoil it. I got the kit for £25 of eBay and it has worked a treat. It saves having drain the oil and drop the sump.

Mark

[No door gap at top of quarter light.]

Thanks for the photo Paul that's a great help. I was going to have a look today but with the sun out I could not resist a topless drive with the wife😉

Mark

[No door gap at top of quarter light.]

Thanks everyone for your comments I will take the door card off and have a proper look at the adjustments.

Mark

[No door gap at top of quarter light.]

I should have said its a Vitesse convertible, I will have a look at the NDV frame adjustment. I had found the screw under the grommet at the front of the door but not the one under the channel bracket.  As the rest of the door gaps are correct wont packing the bulkhead side rails affect them?

Mark 

[No door gap at top of quarter light.]

I have spent the day playing with my door gaps and getting the doors to shut with out slamming them. I have made some major improvements and found the major problem on the drivers door was the wedge in the anti burst catch was seized solid  I still have one problem that the top of the quarter light is hard up against the top of the windscreen frame on the drivers side. The gap at the bottom of the quarterlight  is fine and the passenger side is fine. I can lower the back edge of the door by adjusting the hinges to create a gap but then the anti-burst  catch is to low and wont close. Is there any adjustment on the quarterlight or is it a case that the top of the drivers side windscreen frame has moved backwards?

Thanks 

Mark

[LED Lamps Illegal on Classic's]

3 hours ago, trigolf said:

I've bought LEDs for the side and brake lights from Classic Car LEDs. Their website says that all their LEDs are CE approved.  I'll keep the receipt in case of an argument with my MOT Tester, though I'm sure he won't get excited over it....

Gav

You can't always trust the CE mark. Quite conveniently China decided to use the exact same letters in the same font for products the at approved by China for export to Europe "China Export" and it has nothing to do with the quality of safety of the product like it does in Europe. Lots of these LED's are made in China.

[Pattern parts again]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

 I like the old comforting glow of a filament bulb in the sidelights.

I thought I was the only one. I am not a fan of the super bright ultra white LED's in our cars they just look wrong and out of keeping with the car. Even the warm white LED's are still to white in my opinion. As for comments I have come across that the filament bulbs are to dim that's often down to, dirty reflectors, lenses and bad electrical connections causing resistance.