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Roger89

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Everything posted by Roger89

  1. Anyone tried fitting one of these? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F143412999566
  2. Like the bushes on the rear some didn't really need changing but I just thought that changing everything give us a clean slate. Plus definitely had the needle on the float chamber stick at least once or twice so far. Some of the parts if they looked good I labeled and kept for spares. Brake cylinder's etc. Fuel hose look quite new but it's pretty cheap even braided esp if you buy a big roll. Same with the ignition system. Other thing is that as the project is to teach my 15 year old son who's 1st car it's going to be at 17 then I got to show him how it all works and gets put together anyway. I had him striping and rebuilding the rear drums shoes and slave cylinders dozens of times untill he can now fit them out blindfolded. Would like to go electronic on the ignition but then he don't learn how to set points Etc. Thanks for all the tips. I'll let you know how I get on here. Pic below of him driving it on private car park. He's already got his leather flying jacket on. Wants to be an engineer in the RAF so Spitfires certainly the right car for him. Going to remove the fuel tank and paint it anyway so I'll get a good look at it then. Quite fancy replacing it with that new one knocking about. Just can't find any reviews on it. I still remember clearly an awful incident when my own spit in the 80's suddenly decided to spring a bad leak. Never really be happy with having a fuel tank so close to the occupants of a car. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F143412999566 Thanks again for all your help guys.
  3. Yes thanks Pete and everyone. Bought the car as a project case. Had to concentrate on rear as diff exploded on way home. Only now got round to the engine. It was running so rough when I took it out to test new diff and all the work on the rear end we did. Would only run with choke full on even after it warmed up. Set about changing all the electronics, new plugs, points, condenser, HT leads, cap, coil, rotor arm etc. Was waiting for the colour tune to arrive before I started on carbs. Think I'm going to strip them down off the car and give them a thorough clean. I've got a new exhaust manifold to fit anyway. So much to check its mind blowing where to start. Not even sure if the petrol in the tank is any good as it was in storage before I bought it and it's a full tank even though the gauge is only showing 1/4 So many other things could be wrong timing, valves, piston rings etc. Just have to plough on 1 by 1. Wish me luck, thanks again Pete I'll set the carbs just like that when I rebuild them. Can you recommend a needle kit for me? Cheers Roger Ps Hoping to get it running (of sorts) in time for the TSSC Christmas open day at HQ
  4. Going to treat myself (and her)as she's running so so bad. but what size do I need for a spitfire 1500? I was guessing a 14mm Thanks in advance
  5. Don't panick! think there be plenty more where that came from
  6. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303349035139
  7. Hey Pete, that's given me s good idea. We started stripping out the filler and rust from the valence, my boy was going to sweep it away and bin it. I said we should bag it up and sell it on eBay as genuine authentic ready made triumph 1979 patina. By the time we've stripped out the bodge from this car, we be millionaires! https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patina&ved=2ahUKEwiWv9_j6dDlAhWeXRUIHTwaB1kQFjALegQIDRAK&usg=AOvVaw3w28D8qAiE9Bm6NNV34bdy
  8. Thanks for the help, he read all your comments and went for the metal one. Found another supplier 'James Paddock' seems to have better feedback than Rimmer brothers so parts should arrive early this week. Decided to replace all the electronics HT leads etc before we have our 1st outing hopefully this week. Will post pic of finished valence here when we find a good welder to do the job for us. Anyone have a recommendation for a welder in the Midlands be great?
  9. Yes, as I was thinking. I'll try convince him, think he'll come round. Will keep you posted
  10. Having found the original rear Valence on our spit 1500 project beyond repair, was going to order a brand new one to weld on from Mr Rimmers today, bargin @£125. Thing is my son 15 3/4 who car it's going to be in just over a year, seems to prefer Honeyborn of Stafford moulding fiberglass replacement. He reckons he's keeping the car till he's 90 years old, so resale value and originality isn't in the calculation. He just wants it to last forever. Am I making a mistake letting him do this?
  11. Yes will post pictures of the results here. Be good to have two sets of usable bumpers so can use the wrapped ones for everyday use. Noticed that Rimmers are doing a set now for £900 wow!
  12. just bought a new pair so was going to try this wrap on the rusted out old pair after filling in the holes
  13. Got a bargain pair for my project spitfire 1500, £40 nice soild but a bit flaky. Still 100% better, as mine had more holes than a cheese grater. Question is who's found the best value rechrome factory? In the Midlands preferably.
  14. Roger89

    Fuel pipe?

    Yes recently read a newspaper article about a guy who spent 2 years renovating a triumph herald. He moved it from the garage to the front of the house I went in to pick his wife up for the first ride. When he came back out it was in flames and completely destroyed. Not sure whether there would be too much heat on the the opposite side of the intake canisters, but would like to see the car as original as possible. I'm off to the Newark autojumble end of this month have picked up to really nice bumpers, front and rear, for £40! Bargain from a guy on Facebook is going to meet me there. So might be lucky and find the missing original pipe while I'm rummaging through the jumble.
  15. Roger89

    Fuel pipe?

    So, although I haven't really started work on the engine or front-end yet due to having stripped out the diff for replacement and then decided to replace/clean/service absolutely everything else on the back-end at the same time. Seems rude not to, whilst it's stripped down. However, I did glance at the engine today day just to see what delights awaiting me. Glaring at me was a rubber tube between the two carburettors over the air boxs!!! Am I correct in thinking this is dangerous as it could vibrate off and pour fuel out over the manifold, making it live up to its name of spitFIRE? I've called the nice guy Dave at the spitfire graveyard in Sheffield, to see if he had a replacement metal pipe, but he says he throws them out when he strips a spitfire. Sad,. Can't find one at rimmer brothers so has anybody remanufactured one or know where I can get an original?
  16. That's brilliant chris I've got compreser and a nice spray gun. Car still not back together yet as garage roof collapsed in that monsoon so been doing urgent repairs on that instead. Would like to get this underneath sealing right and proper, as this Spits going to be used daily during the whole year. Thanks again great advice
  17. Back in my day, 80's WAXOIL was the top undercoat. Almost ready to put the rear diff and back on and seems a shame not to give the old girl a blast of wax above the axel. It's sti got the original paint and looks nice and clean. But as it's going to be my daily runabout it's going to get a bit salty and wet up there this winter. Any opinions be much appreciated
  18. Thanks Pete, very kind of you. I'll give it a go this weekend.
  19. So after deciding to replace every bush on the rear end of my project spitfire 1500 with poly bushes from Rimmers i'm struggling with the rear Spring Eye Bush the nice shiny blue poly bush Rimmer sent me C8939APBB doesn't have a metal outer casing . Anyone know, does this mean i have to leave to original metal outer sleeve in place inside the spring eye and push the new poly bush into it?
  20. So the really nice guy from the spitfire scrap yard shop on eBay from Sheffield has offered to exchanged the diff he sent me for another one. But I'm not sure whether I'm still going to get the same problem. A really nice bloke called Mike papworth was recommended to me and he has offered to take both these diffs and make one good one for me so I'm going to go with this option. I've just ordered a whole set of every single bush and bolt for the back end, over £300 from Rimmer s as I want the job done properly and it seems a shame to put old stuff back on whilst it's this far stripped down. having a real serious issue getting the rear trunnion bolts out as they are seized in pretty solid any ideas be appreciated ASI don't want to bend the frame!
  21. Thanks Pete, so tempted to put the diff on we got from scrap yard just as a temp measure so we can move the car about. Only while we wait for the original diff to be reconed. I'm presuming it must have run without that thrust washer but do you think it'll do further damage to the diff if I installed it. I've washed out all the gritty old oil and re oiled it so it's nice and clean in there. Just wouldn't like to be driving and the diff exploded!
  22. Thanks Pete, so tempted to put the diff on we got from scrap yard just as a temp measure so we can move the car about. Only while we wait for the original diff to be reconed. I'm presuming it must have run without that thrust washer but do you think it'll do further damage to the diff if I installed it. I've washed out all the gritty old oil and re oiled it so it's nice and clean in there. Just wouldn't like to be driving and the diff exploded!
  23. Thanks Pete, so tempted to put the diff on we got from scrap yard just as a temp measure so we can move the car about. Only while we wait for the original diff to be reconed. I'm presuming it must have run without that thrust washer but do you think it'll do further damage to the diff if I installed it. I've washed out all the gritty old oil and re oiled it so it's nice and clean in there. Just wouldn't like to be driving and the diff exploded!
  24. Yes stripped the diff apart now. Loads more if the copper pieces plus the oil was like grinding paste. Planet gears definitely moving so I think it is the thrust washer Peter suggested above. Think I'm going to send both units off for recon now as just spent oner £300 on replacing every bush, bolt nut plus shocks etc on everything we took off the back end. Seemed a shame to have it stripped down so far and put back in 40 yr old parts. 1 question though, I noticed it's recommended to mark position of prop to diff but I haven't as I thought I was changing the unit. I'm going to put my head on a rail track if this keeps up, lol.
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