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Nigel Clark

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Nigel Clark last won the day on February 4

Nigel Clark had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Market Harborough
  • Cars Owned
    Spitfire Mk3
    GT6 Mk3 2500
    TR6
    Reliant (no, not a Robin) it's a Scimitar GTE
    BMW Z3

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  1. Thank you, sounds like good advice. I've always used the 'squeezing in the vice' method with lots of grease to hold the rollers in but not 100% successful! Will try your method next time I need to replace a UJ. Nigel
  2. I can't answer as to what that profile is on the ticket but with duration of 253 degrees inlet/257 exhaust, it looks only a marginal improvement over the original 2500S cam which from memory is 10/50 inlet and exhaust for duration of 240 degrees. The Triumph 308778 profile with duration of 270 degrees gives perfect road manners with noticeably better top end performance, or Chris Witor's CW3021 which has the same timing as the 308778 with extra lift on the inlet valves. I have a CW3021 in a 2500S engine in my GT6, with twin HS6 SUs and I'm impressed by how well mannered it is at low revs but pulls hard to 5,500 rpm redline! Chris Witor also advises skimming the head for compression ratio of around 9.5:1. Hope this is of some help. Nigel
  3. Nigel Clark

    Black paint

    POR-15 chassis black, after treating with POR-15 metal prep. Nigel
  4. It's a 3D jigsaw puzzle to assemble a diff with new bearings. As said already, leave well alone unless the bearings show signs of roughness. Nigel
  5. That flange needs to be replaced, unlikely to be successfully straightened. Nigel
  6. Agree thread looks crossed. I would take the plug out, check and clean the thread then try fitting a brand new plug. Can you take it back to the reconditioner and ask them to sort it? Nigel
  7. +1 for battery impact wrench, gets these undone in no time. Nigel
  8. I think the Spit Mk4 crash pad is different. Certainly the crash pad on my GT6 Mk3 is different from Spit Mk3. Nigel
  9. I agree. JB Weld is amazing stuff, but I fear the load and friction of the handbrake lever pins' movement will wear through it fast, though I've no experience using it for such an application. Nigel
  10. No, it's the same as the later TR6 PI (CR series). Has less dwell than the early TR6. Nigel
  11. Best to get a cam that has been ground on a brand new blank, from a reputable supplier. Reprofiling a worn cam as the surface hardening will be thin, risking rapid wear. Nigel
  12. +1 The Mk3 cam profile is the best for road use. More at the top end than other factory cam profiles, with no significant loss of of low down torque. I've used County bearings and pistons, which seem fine. There have been past concerns about dimensional consistency of County pistons. I used them for a 6 cylinder engine rebuild two years ago. When my trusted machinist measured the new pistons they were all very, very similar. Nigel
  13. It's a Mk3, with overdrive. 70mph equates to about 3500rpm Nigel
  14. I've used standard County bearings on a couple of six cylinder rebuilds and they seem fine. Reusing bolts is okay if in good condition but I always use a little Loctite as a precaution. Nigel
  15. To add to the experience of VSR, I ran my GT6 for about 30k miles on premium unleaded without additives before stripping the engine. There was very little sign of recession. Driving was a mixture of local A and B roads with some motorway miles too, so the engine worked fairly hard but didn't spend much time above 4,000rpm. The Ford Essex V6 in my Scimitar has been similar, with no VSR problem after 20k miles on unleaded, and that has done a lot of motorway miles. I suspect VSR is really only likely to be a problem at sustained high rpm in competition. Nigel
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