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Nigel Clark

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Everything posted by Nigel Clark

  1. Nigel Clark

    Black paint

    POR-15 chassis black, after treating with POR-15 metal prep. Nigel
  2. It's a 3D jigsaw puzzle to assemble a diff with new bearings. As said already, leave well alone unless the bearings show signs of roughness. Nigel
  3. That flange needs to be replaced, unlikely to be successfully straightened. Nigel
  4. Agree thread looks crossed. I would take the plug out, check and clean the thread then try fitting a brand new plug. Can you take it back to the reconditioner and ask them to sort it? Nigel
  5. +1 for battery impact wrench, gets these undone in no time. Nigel
  6. I think the Spit Mk4 crash pad is different. Certainly the crash pad on my GT6 Mk3 is different from Spit Mk3. Nigel
  7. I agree. JB Weld is amazing stuff, but I fear the load and friction of the handbrake lever pins' movement will wear through it fast, though I've no experience using it for such an application. Nigel
  8. No, it's the same as the later TR6 PI (CR series). Has less dwell than the early TR6. Nigel
  9. Best to get a cam that has been ground on a brand new blank, from a reputable supplier. Reprofiling a worn cam as the surface hardening will be thin, risking rapid wear. Nigel
  10. +1 The Mk3 cam profile is the best for road use. More at the top end than other factory cam profiles, with no significant loss of of low down torque. I've used County bearings and pistons, which seem fine. There have been past concerns about dimensional consistency of County pistons. I used them for a 6 cylinder engine rebuild two years ago. When my trusted machinist measured the new pistons they were all very, very similar. Nigel
  11. It's a Mk3, with overdrive. 70mph equates to about 3500rpm Nigel
  12. I've used standard County bearings on a couple of six cylinder rebuilds and they seem fine. Reusing bolts is okay if in good condition but I always use a little Loctite as a precaution. Nigel
  13. To add to the experience of VSR, I ran my GT6 for about 30k miles on premium unleaded without additives before stripping the engine. There was very little sign of recession. Driving was a mixture of local A and B roads with some motorway miles too, so the engine worked fairly hard but didn't spend much time above 4,000rpm. The Ford Essex V6 in my Scimitar has been similar, with no VSR problem after 20k miles on unleaded, and that has done a lot of motorway miles. I suspect VSR is really only likely to be a problem at sustained high rpm in competition. Nigel
  14. Are those 'bump stops' a standard fitment? Could be wrong, but I don't recall seeing them before. I wonder if an ingenious previous owner drilled holes and fitted rubber blanking plugs as improvised buffers. Nigel
  15. Could be as simple as a failing master or slave cylinder. Nigel
  16. +1 That's been my experience too. The only way I could get the compacted crud out of the water jacket around cylinders 5 and 6 was cylinder off, then dig it out with a small screw driver and flush with plenty of water. Nigel
  17. That sounds like a thorough plan. Having done that, you will know for certain that all the basics of the cooling system are right. Waterless coolant is a Marmite product, personally I'm not a believer and will not use it in my classics. One point to add... Airlocks. When refilling with coolant, make certain the heater valve is open and jack the front of the car as high as possible, to encourage any trapped air out through the radiator filler neck. Start the engine without the filler cap on the radiator, then fit the cap after a couple of minutes, when air has burped out and you've topped up the coolant. Nigel
  18. I recently fitted an alloy radiator in my Scimitar GTE. The temp gauge has stayed reassuringly low at around 80-85C during recent hot weather, when before it would hit 90-95C in traffic with the old radiator. That said, the old radiator was in a bad state, not leaking but looked like it had been there since the car was built in 1977! Nigel
  19. Chris Witor implied the same to me regarding 6 pot head gaskets, so I bought what he recommended for my GT6. Canley supply a non Payen head gasket for the 4 pot engines, and I trust Dave Pearson to sell parts that work Nigel
  20. Thank you to all for your suggestions. In the end, I decided to pay extra to get a sensor that's guaranteed to fit easily, so have ordered from Revington. Nigel
  21. Hi Richard, When I first got my GT6 about 20 years ago, it struggled with cooling. After trying electric fans, in front and behind the radiator, I concluded they made matters worse by obstructing air flow. I built a similar cowl to yours, from alloy sheet pop riveted together. It transformed cooling with only the standard crank driven fan. The engine now normally runs at about 40% deflection on the standard temp gauge, rising to 60-70% gauge deflection in traffic. Pointing a digital IR temp thingy at the thermostat housing gives readings of 75-85 Centigrade when really hot. More important, nothing bad has happened, the engine has run happily like this for many years and thousands of miles. Hope this is some help and reassurance! Nigel
  22. Height at front 10mm from main chassis rail, height at back about 18mm, horizontal top surface for radiator to mount 60mm. There are 5/16" unf captive nuts in the bracket to bolt the radiator onto. Nigel
  23. I've found these olives frequently weep a bit of fuel. Once the olive is correctly seated, a couple of turns of PTFE tape can help. I know it shouldn't be necessary but out usually works! Nigel
  24. Here's a pic from my GT6 Mk3. The front of each radiator bracket is 35mm back from where the main chassis rail joins the front cross member that supports the valence. Nigel
  25. I would also recommend Canley Classics for gaskets, indeed for any Triumph parts you need. I covered a professional rebuild of a Spitfire engine for Practical Classics magazine last year. The pro engine builder used Treebond 1215 as gasket jointing compound, because "he doesn't want leaks causing warranty claims". Nigel
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