Nigel Clark

I would do as the supplier suggests, give it 2-300 miles and see if it settles down. If it doesn't, get back to the supplier. Nigel

The right type of LED headlight bulb should meet MoT requirements, including correct dip pattern for RHD. I've fitted headlights from this helpful company to my TR6: https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs Relays aren't necessary since LEDs use less current and are less voltage sensitive than traditional tungsten or halogen bulbs. Nigel

As Johnny says, the gear levers aren't interchangeable. However, I believe the top cover, remote linkage and lever can be swapped over from the earlier box to the later one. Someone more experienced here may be able to confirm. You also need to consider the overall length of the gearbox and overdrive assembly with J-type installed. Will the propshaft need to be shortened, and will the mount under the overdrive need to be modified?? I fitted a Dolomite 1850 box with J-type OD to my GT6. It required the very rare shorter OD adapter plate from a late Spit Mk4, a shortened main shaft for the gearbox and a homemade custom mounting plate for the overdrive. You could avoid the rare Mk4 OD adapter and shortened main shaft by chopping the propshaft, cutting the transmission tunnel and making a new rear mount under the overdrive.... It's a can of worms. Nigel

Here you are: https://www.radialequity.com/portfolio Click on the Moss and Rimmers box to see more about the acquisition of both companies by Radial Equity. There's a discussion running about this on the TR Register forum. Nigel

Could it be a non-standard exhaust bracket that's been flattened? Nigel

Yes, I fitted this split cover from Racestorations to my TR6: https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/split-gearbox-tunnel-including-extra-inspection-panels-tr4a-6/ It's proved very useful for accessing the speedo angle drive and topping up gearbox oil. As far as I know, there is no commercially available split tunnel for the GT6. However, it wouldn't be difficult to modify a glass fibre tunnel with a hatch for the angle drive and hole with large rubber bung for topping up the oil. Cutting the tunnel in two just aft of the H-frame may also be possible, but the front part would need the addition of a flange on its rear edge, onto which the rear part could mount and seal Nigel

I've had a range of E36 and E46 cars, and a Z3 1.9. All good cars and I found most spares were available as decent quality pattern parts, with no need to pay extortionate genuine BMW prices. I always look out for Meyle or Febi branded spares for brakes and suspension, Bosch for electrics and filters, Gates for drive belts. Nigel

Great car! I'm enjoying my 2000 E46 330Ci coupe. BMW make the kind of cars Triumph would be making today, had the company survived. Nigel

I have used similar self adhesive sound deadening sheets from eBay on my GT6 and TR6. It's sticks well and reduces sound and heat transmission to the cabin. I've no idea if the more expensive types e.g. Dynamat are any more effective. Nigel

You have the semi sport back box as shown in johny's post: I have had the same on my GT6 Mk3 for many years. Yours is too high on the right of the car because the present mounting arrangement on the tail pipes is too short. The correct mount is a rubber strap, attached to a bracket under the boot floor. The correct mount will level up the silencer box and give more clearance between the tail pipes and the lip on the rear valance. The rubber strap is part number 158575 on the diagram johnny posted. The lack of a mounting on the other end of the semi sport box has never been a problem on my car. Fit the correct mounting strap to the tail pipes and all should be well. Nigel

Before reassembly, Remember to check that the cylinder head surface is perfectly flat. If the head is warped, it will need a light skim, or the new gasket won't last long. The pushrod side of the gasket is prone to oil leaks. I always fit the new gasket with a smear of sealant along this edge. Reinzosil is very effective. Nigel

A couple of tips when refitting the head studs... Always make sure the threads in the block are clean, and fit the studs only finger tight in the block. Over tightening the studs can raise the block surface around the stud holes, causing the head gasket to leak. Nigel

There's no need for the expense of ARP studs on a road going engine. If the existing studs are in good condition, without worn threads, they can be reused. If in doubt, fit new original style studs. It's a good idea to fit new nuts in case of wear, they're not expensive. Whatever you decide about studs and nuts, make certain to use the correct washers beneath each nut. Ordinary washers can compress and spread under the torque required for the cylinder head. Nigel

The labour rate of £40/hour is more than reasonable. After paying for body repairs, £5k including labour, materials and vat is fair for the respray in my experience. Prices for classic body restoration work can vary a lot, depending on quality of work, location, problems discovered along the way and many other factors. This means it's difficult to give a definitive answer to your question. Nigel

If the speedo needle was flickering for a while then stopped all together, it's quite likely the angle drive on the output from the overdrive has failed. You can test the cable and speedo head using an electric drill running anti clockwise. Disconnect the cable from the angle drive and attach the still chuck to the end of the inner cable. Nigel

I've used the first of the two splitters Doug shows for many years.... It hasn't failed yet! Nigel

+1 Nigel

I also rate the club shop aerosol paints. They're a good colour match, unless the original paint has faded of course. Nigel

Another very good Triumph parts supplier. Nigel

I used Mev Spares to get hard to find track rod ends for my Scimitar GTE. He was helpful and knowledgeable, supplying good quality versions of the correct parts at a reasonable price. I've also used ANG, good service too. Fitchetts and Paddocks have been good and I wouldn't hesitate to buy parts from any of the above. Nigel

I would agree it's a good idea to keep the front silencer. Personally, I've never heard it said that the semi sports silencer is louder than the wheelbarrow setup. Nigel

Yes, you will need to drill holes in the boot floor or inner rear valance to take brackets for the hanging straps on the rear of each silencer. Be aware, once settled in, these twin box 'wheelbarrow' systems are very loud, so much so that some find them hard to live with for any lengthy journey. For a sportier exhaust sound without a noise induced headache, I prefer the Bells semi sport rear silencer, with a small front silencer between the chassis rails under the prop shaft. Nigel

By 1972, Triumph sixes were all recessed block with fire rings on the gasket. Guy your car has its original engine, it will have a recessed block. My '72 Mk3 GT6 had engine number KE 14xxx with recessed block. Nigel

Start with the workshop manual static setting of 10 degrees BTDC. Make sure valve clearances are correct (10 thou cold), the spark plugs are in good condition and there are no air leaks around the carbs (carb to manifold gaskets, vacuum hoses and manifold to cylinder head gasket). The ideal ignition advance for your engine depends somewhat on the condition of the engine, and the octane number of the fuel used. 97 RON super unleaded works well, 99 RON Shell V-Power or Tesco Momentum is even better. Using your chosen fuel, the optimum ignition timing is best found by trial and error. Most of our engines run best with a degree or two more advance than specified in the manual. With the engine warmed up and the ignition timing set as per the manual,try advancing the timing slightly, usually the idle speed will increase. Go out for a drive and - where safe to do so - floor the accelerator at around 2,000rpm in top gear. Listen for the characteristic sound of pre-ignition or pinking. The aim is to find the most advance the engine can take without quite pinking. Take care though, too much advance will damage the engine, while the optimum setting will give crisp performance and good fuel economy. Nigel

The 1300cc Spit Mk3 really won't see any benefit from bigger carbs, unless you go for an upgraded cylinder head and hotter camshaft. As Pete has pointed out, simply fitting bigger carbs will probably cause difficulty in setting up. For 20-30 extra bhp, the engine will need a full rebuild, with aforementioned cylinder head and cam modifications. Bigger carbs alone won't won't achieve anything like that kind of increase in power. Nigel