alan.gilbert_6384

Ahhh, so the tube sits on the shoulder of the stub axle, at the smaller end of the taper which goes through the VL and the outer diameter of the tube will pass through the hole in the VL when the axle comes out ?

Thanks Clive, is the tube on the wheel bearing side and the nut for the bearing used as a load ?

Hi All, Just planning my next attack on the old VLs, this time I thought i would ask before I got stuck. I am planning (that's the first thing to go out the door when the attack starts) to reuse my stub axles on the new Canley set up. So I've noticed a rather large taper that these fit into. This could go one of two ways, move the nut up to the top of thread and give it some hammer, or the bloody thing is in for life, in which case i need new stub axles. Has anyone got any experience or tips for this ??? Thanks very much

Hi Pete, don't suppose you have a picture of one em ?

Hi All, Finally got it bleed, thanks all (plus I should of read the WSM). The fast push thing helped as just normal pushing did not clear all the air. I have just inspected the old fluid that came out, it has absorbed quite a bit a moisture over the years being normal brake fluid (root cause for the corrosion inside). Lesson learnt is, if that don't want a leaking slave cylinder, change the fluid every three years (or use expensive silicone stuff and forget it).

Hi All, so after finding a corroded VL its now going to be replaced with Canleys finest (based on the fact that the costs were not that different). Seems like good units but not sure about the load path going through a circlip? But they have made loads so maybe its just me ?

Hi All, so after finding a corroded VL its now going to be replaced with Canleys finest (based on the fact that the costs were not that different). Seems like good units but not sure about the load path going through a circlip? But they have made loads so maybe its just me ?

Ah, that's the same as the Rimmers video, any idea why clutch would be different to brakes ??? I will give it go tomorrow, cheers.

Hi All, Just after some advise. Just changed the slave cylinder as the original was leaking rather badly. Thought about a seal kit, but ditched this idea after I cleaned the original only to find some deep corrosion damage which would not polish out. Started with an access hole (thought this would be a god idea as some comments on this subject suggest both the seal and replacement cylinders don't last that long) fitted the new slave and went on to bleed the system after emptying the master as there was some age related dirt in it. Now this what I thought might be the correct way (as used by my 19year old self a few years ago, ahem). attach bleed tube, undo bleed nipple, press down gently to the bottom, close the nipple, up pedal gently, rinse and repeat. I don't seem to be able to get rid of all the air, as its very difficult to get into gear if you don't pump the pedal. Does anyone have a good ideas on how to bleed the bleedin thing ???

Cheers Pete, interestingly the rear is different, just grease (no mention of zinc) and in-between the bushes, maybe we should all install that extra nipple ???

The vertical is ductile cast iron, you wouldn't normally roll a thread on this material. Plus the shape of the front VL makes it very difficult to achieve a rolling centre needed for the rolling process. I am assuming they are fixtured and machined, probably back in the day, by two operations one turning the later threading. The peak profile is interesting and it looks like an undersize major diameter which was then machined, they both appear to be the same, so it maybe deliberately done, for lubrication ????

Good point, I will measure the good one (NS) on the machined area not threaded, as this should be the thread pitch major diameter.

The through bolt is recommend to have a slight amount of copper slip to aid it not corroding on. The pivot tub should be grease externally with Zinc based grease.

Hi All, Just completed the strip, cleaning inspection and lubrications of the front suspension. The OS looks corroded, i think this was due to some PO or garage using grease in both the trunnions (why the heck did triumph have to put a grease nipple in there ?). The NS looks ok I think (there are much wiser people in this forum than me for this bit). Both trunnion threads look very good, but they don't have the stanpart logo. Cleaned out all parts re-greased the pivot link and filed the trunnions with EP90. So my choices going forward are; 1. Good secondhand OS link ? £ where to get it from ? 2. New vert links and trunnions both sides, £££ 3. New trunnionless kit £££££ Rimmers or Canley ?? Any ideas ? or a 4th option ?

Brilliant Colin, I will check them out, thanks very much for the picture.

Just checked receipt file from PO and found these FRONT SUSPENSION BUSH KIT POLY SPIT MK1V/1500 / GT6MK3(JPR300-2) from James paddock. Does this mean I don’t need to lubricant them ? thanks very much

Hi All, Thought I would strip and inspect the trunnions (after reading TSSC No 105, page 16). So here is the question, the Haynes manual does not mention grease at all, only EP90 for the trunnion thread. But the workshop manual states the bushing should be greased with Zinc based grease (see picture). My thoughts were, that I would use a similar white grease with Calcium and PTFE as this is a better performance grease than standard Zinc oxide. Does anyone have experience of greasing these bushings ?

really sorry to hear that, hope you get better soon, cheers.

ouch, what ya done ?

Cheers Mr Wolf, where did you order it from ? Thanks

Cheers Paul, where did you get them from?

Hi All, looking for some advise on clutch slave cylinders. Mine is used a lot of fluid, Ive check all connections and all good. The little hole in the bottom of the bell housing has what could be clutch fund dripping from it. So I am thinking the slave cylinder must be leaking. Has anyone got recommendations of either new cylinders or seal repair kits ?? Just a quick look shows repair kits at £6 plus postage v £21 for a new cylinder https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360188150960?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjwx46TBhBhEiwArA_DjI_CyTMfz_AOUCHxPHBxrqThGju6tOGsgnnuh-BpOARADMtZGmSCGhoCEFEQAvD_BwE Cheers, plus thought I would replace the sound insulation on the tunnel whilst I've got it out, any recommendations ?

Wow, that's a posh starter motor, it even has a synchro

I used to do 1/2 in drive thing, but it was a bit sloppy on my plug when it came to reinserting it, I now use a socket instead, think it might be 1/2 in can’t remember the exact size, but you get the idea, holds the plug square and tight so you can insert it easily.