alan.gilbert_6384

Just out of interest how many miles has your old one done ? Asking because mine now has 88,888 and I thinks it's still original.

Hi Josef, ROM says 22, hope this helps

Cheers all, Can't see the wood for the threes, missed that third one on the left (thanks Josef). I will investigate my fuse box further. As for the symbols, does anyone know what these are, in the attached pictures ?

Hi All, hope is all well. Just wondering if some one can help with some wiring diagram questions. My spit is FH899560, and attached is the wiring diagram from the haynes manual. Question 1, I have a fuse box fitted by PO with four fuses. I believe the original had four also ? If so why does this diagram show only 2 (both at 72)? Question 2, some of these symbols look strange to me, they don't seem to be standard set, is there a full key to these anywhere ? Cheers thanks a lot.

Hi I did a full ABA test, defiantly the unit, all connections secure.

Hi All, Just thought i would share my latest problem. So with the nice weather, me and wife were out in the spitfire, car warmed up and running good. After about 10/15 miles engine just dies tacho goes to 0 etc, then it cuts back in for a very short while, then does it again. At first I thought coil (HT), logic being it gets warm and maybe starts to breakdown, swapped it for the spare in the boot, short run later, made no difference. So the only other thing is the electronic ignition by Power spark. Now this unit brought in 2020, had only done approx 500 miles, so I was sceptical at first, but changed it for the spare in the boot (yes as a classic car owner I have followed the advise and got spare car in the boot ;). All fixed and thoroughly tested with the spare. Got in touch with power spark to see if they wanted the unit back to investigate etc, but no they can't be bothered, just said it was out of warranty and to throw it away. I will defiantly not be buying another one of their products. Will god back to good old points, I hate electronics

Are those teeth marks ?

looking really good, don't forget to strap that fuel jumper pipe up before you go for a run in it

Hi All update on the brake pipes, Kit arrived good news, and bad. The bender is useful but now having completed the job, was not essential. Pipe cutter was good. Pipe flaring tool also good. Now for the bad news, the advert clearly states in more than one area COPPER pipe. It is not copper, it is in fact steel plated with copper. It is highly magnetic (last time I looked copper was non ferrous), it is not copper nickel alloy either as I also did a salt spray test, and it rusts like hell (copper nickel alloy can be magnetic but at 90% copper and 10% nickel not very much at all). Compliant has been raised let's see how it goes ;). Good news a quick internet search revealed Halfords of all places sells the pukka stuff and is only 11 squid for 25ft (who would of guessed) and its not magnetic at all. So on with the job, as previously stated only some sections needed to be replaced (don't go there). The main front to back pipe which links the two, 3T and 4T pieces and the rear 3T pipe to the off side wheel. The 3T at the back was a real pain in the butt, until I realised that if you unbolt it from the car you get much better access to the nuts. Some sections were very good for 47 years old and some bits were not, but only need one bit on a single system like these. I deleted the union which goes in the middle of the front to back pipe (bugger there goes the originality thing), the only need for this was that the original pipes were steel and could not be routed without it. Also added proper clipping as the standard triumph bit at the back is honestly sh*t Also I don't like pipes or cables running through holes with protection (we all need protection Filled her up and bleed her with the help of not very understanding wife (moan moan moan). I couldn't understand why the fluid was not going down in the master and non coming out the bleed at the first one (off side rear) then found the wife was using the clutch pedal, you couldn't make it up. Cheers everyone have a great evening and thanks for the suggestion to do it my self (keep me out of mischief for a while).

Hi EV, Thank you so much for your very kind offer. I have already purchased the kit, its on its way, so Iwill let you know how I get on. I may well take you up on the offer if it all goes pear shaped Thanks very much again.

Thanks All, Found that Canleys now only do a complete set to order but at 50 squid not bad )they used to do the individual pipes at £8 need 4 of them so £32. But then found a kit to make your own (cheers Colin) for £25. I normally buy good tools but if you only need them once or twice its not economical to buy pro quality stuff, you just have to out with the faffing about. https://www.onbuy.com/gb/copper-brake-lines-repair-kit-pipe-end-flarer-cutter-bender-316~c10590~p27129658/

Hi All, Just been checking the Spitfire braking system to ensure that all is well. I naively thought that it had all been replaced as its copper at the front all the way. But no, some PO or more likely the garage he used, did not replace the whole system with copper, just the front sections (beggars belief, why do half a job ?). So I need to replace the rear section from the front T backwards. So can anyone recommend where to get the individual pipes ? I looked at the club site but it only does full kits. The front sections in copper are good as new so reluctant to replace them. Cheers

Good luck, keep us posted

Looking good. is the windscreen ok the pictures make it look a little rusty?

yess please, shall i DM you ?

Brilliant Thanks very much. The auskellian.com web says this as well, it reference's the one I listed, as I got the dims from the dutch triumph web site. I think I will go with your dims, but will have to use rod material as I don't have a lathe, so will be 18mm stock diameter x 5.39 (or as close as my saw will get )

Hi Unkel, if you don’t me asking, what dimensions did you use ?

Well I guess that clears that one up then for the material for the ones on the bay. New message from: lemans-r http://p.ebaystatic.com/aw/icon/iconTopRatedSeller_19x18.png(2,978) hello yes a firm rubber best regards mark Reply Your previous message Hi, can you please advise what material these swing spring insulation pads are made from, thanks very much.

Thanks very much, great link as well. I now assume that these can be cut from 21mm diameter material (I am thinking Delrin) as I don't have a lathe to make the ones in the drawings ? Cheers.

Hi All, I am thinking of refurbishing my leaf spring (1500 spit) as the car is a little low at the rear end. Has anyone experience of fitting these PTFE buttons to the rear leaf spring of spitfire or GT6 ? If so where did you get them, I can only see them available from the US, with stupid shipping costs etc, cheers.

Not so sure about that, I had the classic sticking out lower rear corner, tried endlessly to just it, to no effect. Found some really good doors on tinternet, which had the original skins fitted and in good shape, refurbished them and the issue went away completely. When looking at the doors I took off, they were reskinned at some point (very good job, but its hard to replicate thousands of £ of OEM tooling by fred in his shed). So I think it's more to do with the way the doors are reskinned, in my case anyway, before and after below 8772E3CA-1429-47CD-9A0F-0E507EB2D935.heic

Looking great, quick question why is there a number 3 on piston 2 ?

Cheers Pete, will do, thanks very much.

Hi everyone, Does anyone know the correct size of rubber hose to use to this connection between the plastic feed hose and chassis rail pipe, which I want to replace as i suspect its rather old

Hi Pete, sorry I have to disagree with two important points ( I used to be a coded welder back in the day). Number one, eye lids will absolutely not prevent ark eye or retina burn by the weld radiation Welding arcs give off radiation over a broad range of wavelengths - from 200 nm (nanometres) to 1,400 nm (or 0.2 to 1.4 µm, micrometres). These ranges include ultraviolet (UV) radiation (200 to 400 nm), visible light (400 to 700 nm), and infrared (IR) radiation (700 to 1,400 nm). UV-radiation is divided into three ranges - UV-A (315 to 400 nm), UV-B (280 to 315 nm) and UV-C (100 to 280 nm). UV-C and almost all UV-B are absorbed in the cornea of the eye. UV-A passes through cornea and is absorbed in the lens of the eye. Secondly low carbon steel (or mild steel as it some times called) as used in pressed panels or more commonly used from the mill as rolled steel, has between 0.16 and 0.29% carbon, with rolled sheet steel for panel making being at the lower end for ductility during the pressing process. Welding steels at either end of this spectrum will present no problem at all and only full metallurgical analysis will be able to tell the difference within the fusion material (I am guessing that you may have had something else going on when you had this issue) ? I only point this out as I really don't think people understand the long tern effects of weld radiation both on the skin and the eyes. Please be very careful, the damage is permanent. Best wishes. Some UV radiation, visible light, and IR radiation can reach the retina.