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Rick2112

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  1. Thanks Gents Few things to have a think about there - and I'll probably give them all a try over the next week or two as I suspect an element of both could apply. Electric fuel pump is something I've considered previously after purchasing an extremely poor quality mechanical pump from a Triumph parts supplier - ended up putting my old one back on with new gaskets. What stopped me was uncertainty around where to position the pump at the rear of the car as I don't really want it in the boot + how to fit a safety cut-off + whether I would need to put a regulator in line to adjust to the correct pressure. Anyhow - I've got something to work with now prior to having to make that decision - thanks again!
  2. Afternoon All Spit is notoriously difficult to start after being left for a few days (and getting worse although it's never been good) if I run the engine every day it’s not too bad and starts after a couple of attempts car runs fine when I’ve actually managed to start - but would benefit from a mild tune up if I start when it’s warm it goes on the button If I then leave for a few days before starting again it just keeps turning over and over – eventually it will burble slightly – then a little more (could be up to ten or twenty attempts!) before it finally just about runs but needs to be coached into running properly by blipping the accelerator pedal gently a few times. Once it is running its fine. Starter motor seems OK and battery is good – plenty of power to turn over the engine Carbs are rebuilt and all runs fine once car started (if slightly rich) – petrol is fresh and choke operation ‘seems’ fine with everything lubricated and pulling/returning as it should. Ignition is one I inherited with the car – Mobelec Magnum Electronic Ignition – with a Lucas Super coil so both well over 20 years old now. Leads are Magnecor and fine. Dis cap and rotor arm are both new – no difference with old cap and rotor. Distributor I’ve never actually touched – but as it’s a late MkIV I’m assuming this to be a Delco one Question is where do I start – I’m clearly getting a spark – so is this just a poor one when the engine is cold and has stood for a few days? Maybe an earth problem on the ignition where the main unit is mounted? Or should I be looking elsewhere maybe at the choke even through it appears ok? Any pointers (or maybe points!) appreciated Rick
  3. I've given up with the red polybushes - such a tight fit with the cup washers they wont fit into the gap in the vertical link uprights. Only way I can get them to fit is by removing the rear half of the cup washer - which leaves them open to dirt ingress I would imagine. Nylon bushes are going in like a dream - so they can stay there until I've spoken to Canleys/Superflex. I know Canleys are not an advocate of this 'upgrade' as they see no real point in using poly over nylon. It's got me wondering whether the rear trunnion polybushes are actually designed to fit using just the bushes by themselves and without any cup washers?? Just a thought. Anyhow I'll post what I find out for ref Rick
  4. Cheers Pete Not sure they sell the cups individually any more so I'll buy a trunnion kit - not that much. As the rubber seals won't fit with the new poly bushes I'll assume they are not required (not much choice really) worst case I just switch back to nylon as I'll have all the bits Rick
  5. Anyone recognise these? Taken off Spit MkIV - all writing has long since worn off but someone may recognise the label - at least 20 years old and British made. I think I can just make out a 'G' at the end of one of the labels (Girling?) Rick
  6. Evening Anyone have any experience of fitting Superflex red poly bushes in the rear trunnions (Spit MkIV)? I've had a set kicking around for a while now and just decided to fit whilst the spring is away being reset. The outer and inner shims + small rubber seals are all a bit worse for wear and I'll need to replace - however it looks like I will have to buy a full rear trunnion kit as these items don't appear to be sold individually (and just discard the nylon bushes). Questions are do I need the small rubber seals with the new polybushes as they look to have a wider rim then the original nylon ones - doesn't appear to be any space for the rubber seals? The repair operation manual says to fill the space between the 2 'nylon' bushes with grease before inserting the rubber seal and distance tube. Can I assume I don't need to do this with the poly bushes - or is there something else I should be using as lubrication (apart from the assembly paste that comes with the bushes) Rick
  7. Decided to overhaul the entire suspension as it's a bit overdue - new decent shocks all round and I've had the rear leaf spring re-tempered (it's a British Springs one so I trust this a bit more than buying a cheap replacement). Poly bushes to go in as well. Checked rear trunnions and all seem fine as far as I can tell - some resistance but they move well through a full range on both sides so I don't think I have an issue there. I do have a question about the diff. Do I have to remove it from the car to check all the mountings, brackets and chassis bolt holes for bends/elongation etc? Or can you tell by sight that there may be an issue. Not something I've tackled before so sorry if a daft question.
  8. Thanks gents - few things for me to check there. A very quick initial look tells me that one of the shocks (drivers side) looks to be compressed about a 1/2 inch more than the other - but that doesn't make up for the remaining 1 1/2 - 2 inch of a gap so I suspect there is something else at play. I'll take a proper look next weekend
  9. Morning all - Just put the car back on the road very recently - and noticed the rear is sagging but only on the drivers side. I can get 3 fingers width between the tyre and arch on the passenger side - but barely one finger width between tyre and arch on the drivers side. Haven't checked anything just but wondering where to start. Is this most likely to be a shock if just one side is sagging? Rebound doesn't seem too bad (pretty stiff but similar on both sides). Or could it still be the leaf spring even through the passenger side looks fine? Just about to take a look under the car to see if anything looks broken... Rick
  10. what tyres did you go for Clive? I'm just in the process of pricing up some Continental Premium Contact 5, Goodyear Efficient Grip Contact and also Dunlop Street Response 2 - all on 175/65/14. Not sure what I'm going for yet - however the Conti's on a friends supercharged M3 are highly sticky and he wholeheartedly recommends (even though at my much smaller size these will be 'passenger car' equivalents so no real direct comparison to wide sports tyres I guess). I'll bear in mind the use of a spacer - hadn't really considered that.
  11. just picking this up again after a break to sort a cooling issue... I will definitely be checking the camber/toe as suggested gents - but still niggling me that the wheel/tyres are just too wide for the car. 185/60/14 running on 6J (not sure on offset). This might be a really daft and somewhat unrelated question - however on the existing 6j rims is it possible to run 175/65/14s on the front and leave 185/60/14 on the rear. Just changed out the track rods ends and the car is absolutely horrible to drive at the moment so needs some work to set up correctly I want to change the tyres out before I begin as the front two are getting on a bit now and need refreshing (2 rears are newish and fine) Found this site quite useful http://www.alloywheels.com/tyre_calculator
  12. Thanks Clive The 65 profile increases the rolling radius slightly from standard by 1.5cm - but overall the wheel/tyre diameter only goes by 0.5cm so might well be a better option. I wonder if the slight decrease in width and increase in height using the 65 profile would stop the scrubbing. Cheers Rick
  13. Hi All I've had 185/60/14 tyres fitted to Minilite alloys for a number of years now and experienced some scrubbing on the edges of the front tyres. I know this size is very close (about 0.2cm) to the rolling radius of the 155/80/13 tyres fitted to the original steel wheels. Question is if I reduced the tyre size to 175/60/14 (to hopefully cure the scrubbing) would this have a detrimental effect on the car's handling? I know the speedometer reading would be affected by about 2% and the rolling radius looks to reduce by approx. 4cm. I've noticed that the 175/70/13 wheel/tyre combination seems to be the optimal choice however I don't really want to change the wheels out as well. I used this link to calculate the difference if that helps at all http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/visual-tyre-size-calculator Any thoughts appreciated Many thanks Rick
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