NDP

Thank you for that posting. I see you also have the bracket for the drivers side ignition illumination light. I have been trying to get hold of one of those for years. I'm now green with envy! So, from what you are telling me both my speedo and tacho are routed incorrectly. This is frustrating but great to know. This may well solve the issue, but no doubt will lead to many hours of fiddling around behind the dash! Once again thank you all for your suggestions and illumination. Back to grovelling under the GT for me. Cheers, NDP. PS. Are any of you chaps going to the Stratford show in August? I have never been but thinking of driving the car down there for the weekend.

I have been looking at a few engine bay photos online and they seem to be routed differently to mine. All are RHD, the same as mine but the tacho cable appears to be going through the bulkhead at the battery side, not routed behind the engine and then through the bulkhead behind the airbox. If the routing on mine is correct then I can only think that the cable is too short and it is back to finding out what length the original cable was. Pete, I understand that your suggestion would solve the issue but I would prefer to try to keep the dial layout original if I can. Regards,

Pete - The tacho is in the right hand side of the RHD dashboard. Standard I think for a 1972 MKIII GT6? Jim - This is where the tacho cable goes through the bulkhead. Hopefully these pictures show the route. Regards,

Hello, I wonder if anyone can help with this. During a rebuild of my GT6 MKIII I had an electronic ignition system put in. It is in exactly the same position as my old manual system but the cable to the rev counter was also replaced. Subsequently trying to get the advance / retard on the car has been a problem because the cable seems to be very tight and the distributor cannot be moved much. My question is this: What length should the tacho cable be? I ask this because I am a little suspicious that aftermarket replacements may be a bit shorter or they may have fit the wrong cable by some chance? Any guidance much appreciated. NDP

I thought I would post a final update on this topic because of how frustrating it has been for me to find a cure and hopefully this helps someone else short cut the problem. Since my last post I did the following: 1). Get a 3mm gasket (has to have one made but cost was negligible). Didn't cure the issue but it did make a difference when I measured the fuel pressure with a gauge I bought. 2). Had a 2mm gasket made and connected together with the 3mm gasket ( For those of you asking why I didn't get a 5mm gasket made, they only make the "Unigraph Unimetal sheets in 1, 2 or 3mm that the gasket was cut from). When fit this cured the problem. Fuel pressure was reduced to 2psi (but only when up to running temperature, prior to this it hardly registered on the psi scale). Once again for all of those that put forward suggestions, thank you. The full rebuild of my GT6 is ongoing and I have a few more questions / issues for which I will open new threads. Kind regards and keep motoring!

Cheers Jim!

Thanks one again chaps. Stratton, when you said extra space between the pump and block, just how much extra space are you talking about and did you have specific gaskets in mind?

Gents, thank you all for your input. I have read the replies and all of the associated links to previous postings etc. I will slowly work my way through the suggestions but some clarification on the pump pressure for the GT6 MKIII would be useful. It has been quoted above: 1.5 - 2.5 psi required but also quoted in a link as 2.5 to 3.5 psi this seems like a fair difference if taking the mid point of each range? Cheers

Any suggesting (apart from sell it) welcome. Here is the sequence of events: 1). Fuel flooding into airbox via carbs. 2). Replaced fuel pump with a new one (manual). Standard unit as per original. 3) Problem not solved. 4) Carbs removed and sent away for complete refurb. 5) Problem not solved 6). Tank removed, cleaned and relined. 7). All fuel pipes renewed. 8). New fuel filter fitted. 9). New air filters fitted. 10). Problem not solved, but wallet considerably lighter. I have read around the subject a bit and there is a view that the fuel pump could be too strong for the system. Does anyone know what pressure the fuel pump on a Triumph GT6 MKIII should run at? The second question is how can I tell what my pressure is running at and then if it is too strong how do I alter it? Thank you for any help.

Gentlemen, Many thanks for the information on this. I will now take this as a type 16. I will try to confirm whether it is a "P" or a "PB". This brings me onto the point of finding out what they are. I am thinking of getting them refurbished and maybe uprating the pads and discs a bit. Does anyone have a recommendation as to who could refurbish them at a reasonable price and maybe also supply the uprated bits? Cheers, Neil.

Hello, hopefully someone can throw a bit of light on my problem. I have a triumph gt6 mkiii 1972. I am looking to refurbish my brake calipers and I was expecting it to have Girling type 16's on the front. Either imperial or metric. However I took a photograph of them and the front right one has the following numbers on it: RH 64326047. 13F2 Type 15. I have been unable to find out any information about this "type". I also do not know who would do kits to refurbish them (including new pads). Can anyone throw any light on this for me. Many thanks.

Well chaps many thanks for all the input and suggestions. I did the following: 1). Cleaned up all ground connections. (no effect) 2). Replaced any poor looking joints in wiring. (no effect). 3). Dis assembled the fuse box and re-assembled it so that it matched the American wiring diagram above (complete with incorrect top, middle and bottom fuse connections). Bingo! The dip switch, interior light and radio are now working. The horn is still dead so I will keep searching for issues with that (it may be a faulty part). Once again thank you for all your inputs. Happy motoring! Cheers.

Hi, I have taken this over to the electrical section and explained the whole issue. Any suggestions welcome. Thank you.

Hopefully I have come to the right section. I am the chap who posted the "Ground Points" request in the wrong section and once again sorry for any upset caused. Anyway the replies were very useful and I have tracked them down, cleaned the terminals and reconnected them. I have found that it has made sod all difference to my problems but hay-ho at least I can discount any grounding issues! My problem is that my dip flasher, horn, radio and internal courtesy lights will not work. I did track down a blown fuse and replaced it but that didn't solve issues and neither did refreshing all the ground contacts as listed above. I have a wiring diagram and an original 3 fuse (all 35amp), fuse box. At some point in its past history I did have the wiring loom replaced (about 25 years ago). All has worked reasonably well since then but I have had a quick look at the back of the fuse box and some of the terminals do not appear to have been used. I suppose a shot of the rear of one of these with the correct way to wire it up wouldn't go amiss if anyone has such a photo? Any suggestions welcome, thank you.

Sorry! I will try to put things in the correct sections in future, being new I didn't understand how things worked. Many thanks for all those who helped. I have some ongoing issues but will try to post them in the correct section. Regards to all.

Hello, Can anyone give me a list and or diagram of the earth ground points on a Triumph GT6 MKIII. Thank you.

Mine is the second type as well. Still trying to get it to work properly. Next step having a look in the bottom of the Stromberg carbs to see if any dirt has come from the old pump or fuel pipes. Fingers crossed.

I recently had my original fuel pump for my 1972 Triumph GT6 MK3 replaced by a new pump, supplied by Rimmers. After fitting I tried to start the engine but it wouldn't do so. The mechanic who fitted the new pump said that it was flooding the carbs and fuel was spilling out of them. The Triumph has recently gone through a comprehensive rebuild and was running fine until the fuel pump went (According to the AA mechanic who towed me home). The carbs have been through a complete refurbishment and again were performing fine until the fuel pump issue. The mechanic said that although the fuel pumps looked very similar, the new one was bigger. I asked Rimmers about it and they said that the spec was a bit different to the original but that it was the correct replacement part for it (Part number 213577). Has anyone out there used this replacement part on a Triumph GT6 MK3 with any success, or otherwise? Also I now feel like getting my old pump refurbished but kits to do so are only available for the earlier types of pump fitted to GT6 MK1's. Does anybody know of someone who refurbishes MK3 pumps? Many thanks for all replies.