Phil Hayden

Lunch in Burford, 116 mile round trip, chilly start but a glorious day when the sun broke through.

Private estate Mathew...... no problem

Convertibles not only safer but more adaptable. Stake Out or search for Vampires ! Either way not a bad day to do either... spring is on its way

OUH 874M Not the usual first run out Followed this GT6 on a trailer on the M40 near Beaconsfield. So is it..... New purchase trailering home 😀 Out of winter storage🥶 or Saving fuel🙄 If it was you, let us know what you're up to.

Had a run over to Bledlow Ridge yesterday to check out the suspension and brakes after rebuild. Pleased to say all running and stopping well !

I have just been renewing my breakdown cover and speaking to the RAC who I have been with for 33 years. The cover I have is Personal Cover -Personal Family cover. Roadside At Home Recovery Onward Travel. This covers up to 3 members of a family at the same address as a driver or passenger in any vehicle. I had been reading through their cover restrictions and could not find anything regarding age of vehicle so as life's too short specifically asked if there was any age restrictions with this cover and both companies confirmed no. Obviously depends on a number of factors I assume location etc.. but for a guide this cover cost £209 for 15 months., same from AA but for 12 months, you have to haggle.😉 European travel cover ...not to be taken at this time about £95 for a year. Waiting for a quote from Peter James - Multi car and breakdown, as I like the sound of the cover they offer particularly in respect to classic cars and cover abroad. Phil

Rob, Similar experience, blocked fuel line ( didn't know that at the time though) called requesting transporter. In Suffolk needed to get back to Buckinghamshire. After 2 hours on a slip road of a major duel carriageway and a long chat with the boys in blue a RAC transit or similar turned up. Towed of to a retail park and told we'll need a transporter ...thought so.... long story short, having had to arrange my own recovery as the RAC didn't have any vehicles in the area.. 13 hours to get home after making the call. However they did offer me 10% discount on renewal.😖

Just did a quote on line...need to call as the car has a few basic modifications. Thanks Phil

Thanks all. I see Footman James advertise in The Courier...Is this associated with Peter James or just coincidence. Phil.

I have had cover with RAC since 1987 but having haggled the last few years an finding the premium is creeping up. I had a chat with one of the Classic car insurers recently that offer breakdown cover as part of the package but I have a multi car policy not due for renewal until October. I need cover for 4 cars including the Triumph ( 3 Drivers) and wonder if anyone has any recommendations / comparisons re RAC, Green Flag etc and experiences when on the continent in their Triumph....You can but hope. Thank Phil.

With too much time on my hands at the moment I thought I'd see if I could fill in the blanks regarding my car's history with your help. The car is a TR6 registration EKV481L, Red ( paint code 17) with black interior. Registered November 1972 Missing History 1972 to 1983 and 1989 - 1993 The car was sold by a Mr Slater of Old Catton Norwich in August 1983 with a milage of 10,300 to a Mr M Band of Great Yarmouth. Mr Band sold the car in July 1989 with a mileage of 25,629 to someone in the Poole area. The car was in Poole between 1989 and 1993 according to MOT records and taken off the road in September 1993. MOT Oct 1992 mileage 29,096. It was recommissioned in 2018 having rested for 25 years with a mileage of 30,127. If anyone has details of the car's history from 72-83 or knows of a Mr Slater of Old Catton Norwich or knows anything about the car in Poole between 1989 and 1993 that would be fantastic. Thanks Phil

Hi Paul, The wheel fitted on the car looks like a TR6 but the grip itself looks a little thin, could be the photo also I cant see a join in the leather at the bottom of the rim. The second one looks more like a TR6 but the spokes have been painted. The centres both look like aftermath replacements. Attached a few pictures of the wheel taken of my 1972 TR6. Hope that helps. I have a wooden Moto-Lita on at the moment but looking to have the leather replaced on the original wheel if anyone has recommendations.

Hi Paul, Thanks for the info. I hadn't been back to the thread for a while but have completed the job using Dinitrol RC900 rust converter and ML cavity wax. I used Aerosols for convenience and found with the extension hose nozzle attachment that I could locate the internal obstructions. They also provide tapered plastic plugs which are very convenient when additional access holes are required ( 10mm drill bit required). Regards Phil

Having had my 6 on axle stands for over a month, the day the wheels went on, well that was the day they came off. Frustrating as it is, just think the time we have to get all those little and perhaps larger jobs completed, by the way whens the next show and shine ? My lawn is starting to look the best it has done in years, however I've been advised that 8.30 am isn't an acceptable time to pull the starter on the lawn mover. Talking of acceptability, I have like many other classic owners have been itching to fire up their first, second or third love ( depending how many children and dogs you have of course) but presently I think cruising down the lanes in your classic is like walking down the high street without a biodegradable shopping bag and a bag of pasta under one arm and a packet of toilet rolls under the other. So lets do our bit,disconnect the battery and enjoy the time we can have in the garage without feeling we are neglecting other aspects of our lives. Lets get our cars ready for when the garage doors are lifted and we can see how much difference all the tinkering we have carried out really makes, that is providing the roads haven't been salted ! Remember personal distancing isn't the length of your bonnet. Stay safe and well. Phil

I'm in the process of doing some rust prevention on the chassis and will be using injecting Dinitro RC900 rust converter into the box sections of the chassis followed by ML cavity wax. While I could poke around with a wire coat hanger to establish where the internal dividers are. Is there a diagram showing the different box sections of the chassis. Thanks Phil.

By coincidence I have today received from Classic CAR LED's LED bulbs for the gauges in my TR6, ordered them at 2pm yesterday, get service. I have used different bulbs to illuminate the gauges and coloured bulbs for the main beam etc: GLB504 T10 LED Capless Wedge Bulbs Classic Car Gauge Dashboard Various Colours × 3 BA9S GREEN 56 LUMEN 8 SMD LED SIDELIGHT GAUGE BULB 989 × 4 but it all depends on the loom fittings. The capless bulbs can be a littel tight. I called Duncan at Classic Car Led's to confirm before ordering, very helpful and knowledgeable. I had been investigating this on another Forum...sorry...🤭and was given a very useful link if you want to totally refurbish the gauges, although cleaning the inside of the glass and the front of the dial will make a great improvement. http://www.74tr6.com/gauges.htm Also purchased H4 LED headlight kit a few months ago from the same company, they make a remarkable difference. Phil

In respect of unconverted heads, whats the panels opinion on the use of additives. Always use the good stuff but have had different advice in respect of lead replacement additives. Phil

Whilst the attention of established members is retained by Ian. Can someone explain ...A members reputation and Classification. I see since joining about a month ago I have moved from Newbie to Member but would appreciate the order of merit being explained ...extending I assume to 2nd San Triumphero and beyond.... Thanks Phil

Hi again Paul, brief note.. If a self leveller is being used ensure the base is primed first. The primer should be out of the same stable as the levelling compound. Most floor failures are due to poor preparation...dusty floors. If the floor has a DPM and is sufficiently dry either a water based leveller or a latex based can be used, water-based are generally harder. Good luck and a Merry Christmas Phil

A little late replying to this post but first consideration is to establish is the floor has a DPM ( damp proof membrane ). If so allow the floor to dry to a minimum of 75%RH ( test with a digital hygrometer if possible). Alternatively place an old rubber car mat on the floor and if after a few days there isn't a visible damp patch you are probably nearly there- give it another couple of weeks before painting. General rule of thumb for drying is an inch a month given reasonable conditions. If any sealer paint is applied before the floor is dry it will probably lift due to the moisture trying to escape. You may like to smooth the floor before applying the sealer / floor paint. Look at F Ball www.f-ball.com for a suitable product. If the base doesn't have a dpm you will need to apply one to the surface if you are intending to paint but this can be an expensive option. So you may then look to use a loose laid vinyl sheet as previously suggested. Moisture will build up under this over a period so remove and ventilate in the summer. You may find a floor paint that can be applied to a base that doesn't contain a DPM but check the technical blurb. Again if you are looking to smooth the floor first make sure the latex compound can go under a DPM ( F Ball 1200 Pro would be suitable). No connection with manufacturers - but too long in the industry !🙄 Phil

DBJ autos electrics in Uxbridge ( Great Traditional firm that specialise in old cars and boats ) have replaced the defective overdrive wiring,tested and incorporated a further fuse adjacent to the relay should further issues arise it will save a lot of work re-routing the wiring again. Also overhauled the wiper motor and linkages to great effect, could actually see my way home for a change. If anyone wants electrical works I can highly recommend them, great work and very reasonable priced. Having started this thread with flashers, then on to overdrive and final wipers, I think that will do until the new year. The old girl is back in the garage having had a good wash, chamois and dehumidifier on to dry out those places its difficult to get at.😶 Hopefully we will have a few dry bright days over the holidays to hit the road, hope to see you out there.... Phil

Roger, Aha there you are, and local to ! Must meet up and get you a coffee / beer for all the help you've given across forums ( Other beverages are available ) Phil

Sorry Roger didn't recognise you without the green hat. 😉 Phil

Hi Doug, Always up for a spin, providing I can get the hood down ( don't do rain at this time of year ) tell you brother to PM me and we can swap details. The local area meet is at the Hart and Magpies in Amersham HP7 0LU the next meeting is the 18th of December, not sure what time, being a Newbie. I'll be going along to link up with the locals Your brother and his friend may like to come along. Phil Peter, The questions a bit beyond me ! It's a 72 with overdrive in 2,3 and 4th. Thank you for the info though I'll mention when I take the car in on Wednesday. Phil.

Casper, it was the earths. I replaced all the bullet earth connectors and sleeves in and around the area and hey presto normal business resumed - flashers working correctly. Re the melted wiring, nipped down to DPJ auto electricians in Uxbridge today for a chat, they think the melted wire may be the overdrive wiring...car booked in on Wednesday so we'll see. Regardless what it is I consider it a lucky escape. Pete they are spade connectors, but i don't think they are the issue, the wire covering has melted and the core has come into contact with the bodywork. Not sure if the wiring has overheated or been effected by heat work on the car sometime ago. With a 50 year old car It's probably any-ones guess what gremlins exist. I hope DPJ can sort and test to see if the wiring has been overloaded. Phil