Neil Clark

I hope to get some time on Saturday.

But you haven't seen my soldering!

Thanks Colin

I've a recurring seepage from the input pipe side of the fuel pump that I thought was fixed but can't seem to eliminate and it's getting worse now that the car is running. If I buy a new tube nut and olive (TL7 and 060176) is that likely to solve it? Or should I get the whole inlet connector assembly AHA5535? And if I fit AHA5535 to the pump, which is the 1964 original, am I just as likely to need a new pump as well because the thread might be worn out? During the dismantling etc I found that the copper pipe on the inlet side was bent, possibly when the front left wheel was forced back and up in the crash. I simply straightened the copper pipe near the pump while connected using my hands when putting it all back together and possibly did force it a bit. Every time I buy a small part it's costing almost as much as the part in postage etc and I don't have any parts lying around to keep experimenting.

Suddenly it feels as if we may be getting to the end of re-assembly! The grilles that were damaged in the PO's crash took a bit of straightening and cleaning up. It's still very fragile but these grilles are like hens teeth so worth the effort. Fitted the radiator deflector boards. Actually it's such a pretty car. I bought it simply for the fun of the rebuild but getting very attached to it.

So muggins / dummy here thought he was smarter and wasn't willing to buy the applicator thingy as well as the DP490 itself. I thought I could just push out one side then half that from the other side and mix the stuff on a piece of old cardboard as per Araldite of old. Thank goodness I was wearing good rubber gloves as pushing one tube simply forced most of it back down the other tube and out the bottom where my hands were. Moral - read the guidelines from the forum experts. They've good reason to suggest certain ways to do things!

Yes, thank you all. Mine is FC39595 so I'll fit them.

Can anyone identify the side panel and part number on the engine bay? I can't find them on Canley or Moss's sites. I've got the ones that go ahead of the radiator. Thanks

After checking the gear change actually worked on the road I put the interior back together, taking the opportunity to line the transmission tunnel with heat reflective material. I used a high temperature adhesive which worked well - my cutting skills need work but I reckon no one will see! I replaced the gear box tunnel, fitted a new gear lever rubber gaiter (much better rubber than the one I had removed) and I lined the tunnel sides and drivers and passengers floors and fire walls with SoundPads. Once I had it all back together and carpeted I went for a run. What a difference! Crisp if slightly stiff gear change, far far less mechanical noise on the road. The gearbox is a little noisy in first, little rattle from the exhaust at certain revs but otherwise just the lovely sports exhaust note to entertain me on this sunny day! I'm still not sure that the Weber is perfectly adjusted yet but it needs to run more first.

Well, a working Weber AND a car lift AND a garage! Very envious!

Followed up on the kit to recondition the gear selector. Mine went floppy so as advised here, went for the Canley kit. Bit of a pain stripping out the interior again but otherwise fairly straightforward. Want to give a big thanks to Halfords New Malden who twice in the last two weeks have gone out of their way to help, today lending me access to their vice and last week fixing my daughters bike and refusing money.

They're plumbing the depths.

I was able to read Pete's pdf on a laptop and since I've zero information on the mods / cam / manifold / jetting etc that may / may not have been made or fitted to mine I wouldn't deviate from Pete's sheet! As long as mine runs well I'll not be investigating further, I just want to get some use out of it after all this time

I'm sorry but I'm away just now. I'm pretty sure that I simply downloaded an instruction sheet from somewhere. Pete's is probably most useful anyway. For example I've no idea which manifold has been fitted to mine by the PO but I suspect it is a Moss item. I've also fitted a Mangoletsi throttle linkage and I'm pretty sure that there were some other instructions with that which helped. (The PO had made up a welded rod from the Mk1 accelerator that actually lay on the exhaust - it was so jerky I don't know how on earth it ever worked and suspect it contributed to the accident that wrote the car off). So I swapped to a Mk3 accelerator and fitted the Mangoletsi unit. When I get home later this week I'll look out what I have and scan it.

The mounting holes from my Mk3 bonnet hinge bracket position and replacement Mk 1 /2 valance all fitted correctly but the valance with a bit of gentle forcefulness. I had had my Mk1 hinges mounted over the Mk3 hinge bracket and my valance is definitely not a metrically correct pressing in my humble opinion, so as Josef says, just make it fit.

I got some scrapyard Sierra calipers for my Fury kit car and refurbished them much as PeteH says - they worked fine afterwards.

And I'll mask the surrounding area where glue is NOT to go.

This sounds like the old Araldite dual tube system from my 1960's youth. I'll have to see what the tubes look like and go from there. My Dad used to plan what he was doing very carefully, put on gloves (woollen in those days!), lay out out a piece of card and make enough to do that task. But I'll make sure I have lots of rubber gloves to hand.

Ah, thank you Pete. Great to have a reference book.

They will be just patches the size of the clip base, so I'm going to go with mixing small amounts on a board as you mention.

Everything ran well this morning so whatever has cleared up cleared up - and the gear selector went sloppy! So that's the next job.

I've ordered the Canley's kit after I remembered reading about it in the posts by Rich Tea Biscuit

I think after this mornings run I need one of these!

30 mlles of running around this morning, open road and traffic, and the hiccups have disappeared, running better and better from the cold damp start this morning to the warm summery day now. And now the gear selection has gone very loose and imprecise - that's about the only part of the transmission I didn't remove or fiddle with in the rebuild!

How do I tell if the cam has been changed?