Joel

It would appear that the studs were re-threaded (or at least two of them were) at some point and a new top plate fitted. I decided to avoid a rebuild as the crown wheel is pretty worn (perhaps the source of a whine over 50 mph?) so contacted Fitechet's who were able to supply a recon. Don't think I'll get anything back from them for the old one though!! Anyone want it?

Again, thanks to you all for helping me along with this! The old one is REALLY done! I'm going to have a chat with the Ebay seller and discuss the wear/age issues on the one he's selling but otherwise, it looks like a recon from Rimmers. A grand is a bit steep so if I can drill the 2 extra stud holes, this would be prefereable. Thanks to Johny, Pete (as always) Josef and Jumping Frog for the advice and hand holding!!

Hello all. The mounting plate on the diff on my mark 2 has cracked and the spring and bolts have detatched themselves. I've removed the diff and have found one on Ebay from a Mk4 Spit. Will this fit? "Marked FH so 3.89 from a MK4 but also suitable for some other models"

I still haven't found the issue but have narrowed it down to the servo unit (repalced three years ago) When I pump the brake pedal, the revs rise - is this normal? Din't do it before I changed the caliper.

Currently going through the same problem after caliper replacement - the pedal travel is much more pronounced than before. No air in the lines and pads sitting correctly. I shall give Nick's idea a go.

Morning all. Thought I'd post these from the Remparts weekend in Angoulême last month. Always a good turnout from the marque and other clubs plus some great racing on the Sunday. Well worth a slot in the calendar if you're looking for a weekend away in September.

Good morning all Finally got around to changing the core plug that leaked and have had a go at removing the drain plug. The extraction bit I was using to remove the sheared brass plug has now snapped off in the hole through the plug and I'm at a bit of a loss where to go now!! Has anyone else come across this issue? I can't drill the thing out as the steering column is in the way. Is it worth buying an extension for the drill and having another go or is this the moment to pull the engine and do it properly? Many thanks Joel

Thanks for the advice Adrian. Still hesitating about whether to pull the engine and do all of them or remove the manifolds and do a "summer fix" to allow me to use it over the next few months. I think the former will win out.

Just seen a video of how to change them so it would appear I'm not driving it this weekend!! Thanks once again for all the advice

Sorry John, didn't reply to your drain plug question. It's a "artisanale" repair, done by the previous owner who snapped off the drain valve whilst over tightening. It appears to be a bit of brass that's been "percussively introduced" to the block. It doesn't leak and is one of those "on the list to replace" jobs!! I think that I need to replace the core plugs and rinse the block through as the coolant is a lovely gravy colour. I've seen a set of core plugs on Rimmer Bros for a few quid - are they easy to install? Threaded into the block?

Thanks for the replies, chaps. It would appear that this is the only plug that needs replacing as the others look okay. What are my options, engine out and replace them all or can I just do the leaking one?

Afternoon all A quick run this afternoon (10 mins) saw a big puddle of water forming under the car in the garage. She leaks a bit but never from there!! I've attached a pic of the leak running down over the bottom drain valve but can't follow it any higher as the manifold is in the way. The temperature gauge reads normal, haven't run it without the right amount of coolant, not a noticeable power drop but a big puddle! A fairly constant flow down the side of the block but the water in the drip pan seems pretty cool. Any ideas?

My apologies, the pipe was run alongside the chasis rails and not underneath as I stated previously.

The attached photo shows the old pipe. It was fixed below the chasis members behind the diff (the shape is about what it was when fixed). Happy to go with the run shown and described in your first post, Gary