Joel

It would appear that the studs were re-threaded (or at least two of them were) at some point and a new top plate fitted. I decided to avoid a rebuild as the crown wheel is pretty worn (perhaps the source of a whine over 50 mph?) so contacted Fitechet's who were able to supply a recon. Don't think I'll get anything back from them for the old one though!! Anyone want it?

Again, thanks to you all for helping me along with this! The old one is REALLY done! I'm going to have a chat with the Ebay seller and discuss the wear/age issues on the one he's selling but otherwise, it looks like a recon from Rimmers. A grand is a bit steep so if I can drill the 2 extra stud holes, this would be prefereable. Thanks to Johny, Pete (as always) Josef and Jumping Frog for the advice and hand holding!!

Hello all. The mounting plate on the diff on my mark 2 has cracked and the spring and bolts have detatched themselves. I've removed the diff and have found one on Ebay from a Mk4 Spit. Will this fit? "Marked FH so 3.89 from a MK4 but also suitable for some other models"

I still haven't found the issue but have narrowed it down to the servo unit (repalced three years ago) When I pump the brake pedal, the revs rise - is this normal? Din't do it before I changed the caliper.

Currently going through the same problem after caliper replacement - the pedal travel is much more pronounced than before. No air in the lines and pads sitting correctly. I shall give Nick's idea a go.

Morning all. Thought I'd post these from the Remparts weekend in Angoulême last month. Always a good turnout from the marque and other clubs plus some great racing on the Sunday. Well worth a slot in the calendar if you're looking for a weekend away in September.

Good morning all Finally got around to changing the core plug that leaked and have had a go at removing the drain plug. The extraction bit I was using to remove the sheared brass plug has now snapped off in the hole through the plug and I'm at a bit of a loss where to go now!! Has anyone else come across this issue? I can't drill the thing out as the steering column is in the way. Is it worth buying an extension for the drill and having another go or is this the moment to pull the engine and do it properly? Many thanks Joel

Thanks for the advice Adrian. Still hesitating about whether to pull the engine and do all of them or remove the manifolds and do a "summer fix" to allow me to use it over the next few months. I think the former will win out.

Just seen a video of how to change them so it would appear I'm not driving it this weekend!! Thanks once again for all the advice

Sorry John, didn't reply to your drain plug question. It's a "artisanale" repair, done by the previous owner who snapped off the drain valve whilst over tightening. It appears to be a bit of brass that's been "percussively introduced" to the block. It doesn't leak and is one of those "on the list to replace" jobs!! I think that I need to replace the core plugs and rinse the block through as the coolant is a lovely gravy colour. I've seen a set of core plugs on Rimmer Bros for a few quid - are they easy to install? Threaded into the block?

Thanks for the replies, chaps. It would appear that this is the only plug that needs replacing as the others look okay. What are my options, engine out and replace them all or can I just do the leaking one?

Afternoon all A quick run this afternoon (10 mins) saw a big puddle of water forming under the car in the garage. She leaks a bit but never from there!! I've attached a pic of the leak running down over the bottom drain valve but can't follow it any higher as the manifold is in the way. The temperature gauge reads normal, haven't run it without the right amount of coolant, not a noticeable power drop but a big puddle! A fairly constant flow down the side of the block but the water in the drip pan seems pretty cool. Any ideas?

My apologies, the pipe was run alongside the chasis rails and not underneath as I stated previously.

The attached photo shows the old pipe. It was fixed below the chasis members behind the diff (the shape is about what it was when fixed). Happy to go with the run shown and described in your first post, Gary

Just spoken to Canley and they have confirmed that the pipe run on rotoflex cars should have originally run upwards from the rear union and under the bodywork and not along the chassis behind the diff as mine was set up. Maybe I've got a hybrid?

Thank you chaps, I'm going to give Canley a call. I'm using the one they label as the rear union to right rear but it's a good 12 inches short. None of the others in the kit are long enough either. I'd rather run the pipe under the chasis as originally done.

Good afternoon all. I'm replacing the copper brake pipes on my Mk II and the set delivered from Canley Classics has a different length pipe from rear union to right rear wheel. It is a good bit shorter than the original and I can't run it under the chasis members as before. Can I run the pipe through the tunnel where the handbrake cable sits? I realise there are a few moving parts in the area but the rotoflex etc seem far enough away from the pipe not to ever cause an issue. New pipe or new position? Thanks Chaps Joel

Morning. Tried the running for an hour but it was still stuck but having jacked up the rear wheels and followed your instructions, I heard a loud thump and we're back to normal!! Many thanks to all of you - Poppyman, Gav and Pete, for all all of your help and advice. If you're ever down in the South West of France, the beers are on me!! Joel

Thanks for your reply, Tony. There isn't any resistance at all when I push the clutch pedal, it goes smoothly to the floor. The clutch fork does move the usual amount of travel (to my untrained eye)

Thanks for your reply Pete, glad I hadn't created the problem! I shall try re bleeding tomorrow with the SC piston pushed in.

Thanks for your quick reply, poppyman. Tried this but no change. The car moves when the starter is cranked so the gear is engaging but depressing the clutch doesn't disengage the flywheel. I restarted the engine in neutral and I still can't shift into any gear.

Hello. I've just changed the bushes on my MK II Vitesse gear shifter and now I can't get into any gear! Engine off, the shifter moves perfectly and I can feel the gear being selected but grinds and graunches when trying to shift with the engine on. I've bled the MC and SC, fluid pees out of the drain nipple so no air in the system. With the tunnel housing removed, the SC piston seems to move as it should and there isn't any play that I can see. Never had any problems with the clutch before. The car hasn't moved for three months over the winter but this hasn't been a problem in previous years. I'm fairly sure that the bush change hasn't got anything to do with the problem but it sure is a big coincidence..... Help!!