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Doctor slow

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    Ash Green, Surrey
  • Cars Owned
    Triumph GT6 MK3

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  1. For anyone following this project and still not bored, you may be interested to hear that I managed to get a fan belt 10 X 1110 mm, which fits well and allows removal and replacement of no. 1 spark plug. !0 X 1120 was too long, and anyway very difficult to get hold of. (preposition is a bad word to end a sentence with). May be helpful to anyone else who wants to get at no. 1 plug without moving alternator or use of "special tool". Of course I may be years behind everybody else ....... wouldn't be the first time.
  2. Yes, you're right of course, but it was just a slip of the brain. Still not really used to the decimal money. Luckily, I ordered the right one.
  3. Yes, i'm pretty sure there's enough adjustment left - the 1200 is only 1.12 cm longer, and i've tested it as much as I can without the new belt. The alternator was almost at the proximal end of the adjuster anyway and it was quite difficult to remove the old belt. Maybe Pete Lewis was right, and the alternator pulley is too big, but measuring it, it seemed right....... but anyway time will tell. It's exciting, isn't it - bet you're all on tenterhooks. 🤣 (you may have noticed I've just found these things, whatever they're called). I have one of those spring loaded plug spanners, but it was still too big. A tube spanner just about did the trick, but it was too short. Modifying that was more fiddly than getting a longer belt, but as I said, time will tell. Thanks again for all the help from the grown-ups.
  4. Without being immodest, lateral thinking is one of the very few things i'm not totally incompetent at, but it seemed to me that (laterally😁), a slightly longer fan belt was the easiest answer, especially since the old one was pretty ...well, old anyway. Hope i'm not wrong, but a QH 10X1200 fan belt was only 6.99, and I can't see that anything else will be damaged😬😬
  5. Yes, you're absolutely right, but as far as I can see, they're pretty much the same length
  6. OK, I'll live with revving to about 3000 rpm to extinguish ignition light.....for now. Decided to get a 10X1200 fan belt to allow some rotation of alternator. this gives me enough room to get to plug 1 without having to move alternator. Since others have also seen this problem, was this a design thing..........." I know, let's use some old fan belt, it's too short, but we've got lots of them, you can't get to plug no. 1, but we'll let the customer deal with that ...that'll do" . 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for all the help.
  7. So, if the alternator is obstructing no.1 plug, presumably fitting a longer fan belt would allow it to rotate further, out of the way. I wonder if there exists somewhere a database of fan belts, 10 mm X ...well, more than 1088 mm?? Same thing for the alternator pulley, I suppose. I need to try a (?)bigger pulley. Are they universal fit but different diameter? Are pulley belt widths all the same? So many questions, so little time. What's the answer to the question of the universe ---- 42, of course.
  8. I've sorted out my electronic ignition problem, and now back to alternator. The ignition light will go out, but only if I rev to about 3000 rpm. But there's another problem: the rear of the alternator prevents access to number 1 spark plug. I've checked that I have the correct fan belt, so it will not tilt any further away from the plug and lead. The alternator is a NAPA NAL1270. Speaking to a distributor (no pun intended), the correct NAPA alternator for a 1500 spitfire is apparently NAL1635 - but I cannot find any reference to that one, but anyway, it looks like this one isn't right. Information on NAPA alternators seems a bit thin on the ground. So, firstly is it standard on the 1500 spit that the alternator must be removed or the fan belt removed to allow it to tilt away, to get to number one plug - i.e. an original lucas will do the same thing, and secondly, if the alternator is wrong does it need more revs to "wake up" and extinguish the ignition light. As usual, any help from the grown-ups would be appreciated.
  9. Ashamed to say been there done that, got the Nobel prize for it. On a midget where battery is hidden behind the heater. In the dark put battery in the wrong way round, then connected it. Lot of light suddenly. So, if there are no other causes, do I bite the bullet and get a new alternator
  10. The first thing I tried was measuring the across-battery voltages, static and running, and its too low (12.7), but, as above, I cannot quite convince myself that a brand new-looking alternator should have failed, so I was wondering if it's possible to check the wiring, in case there is a break/earth somewhere. Is it simply a case of disconnecting the plug and measuring the resistance between the end of the charging lead and the battery? Can't believe it's that simple! And, of course, if the alternator is toast, what's the cause (apart from if it's a cheap chinese one!)
  11. Well I didn't notice that there was a removable "cap", i'll check later today.
  12. OK, thanks for replies. I will check pink/white wire (a bit embarrassed that I didn't know about that). I intended to get an accuspark electronic module specifically for the ballasted system anyway, I think all I need to do is confirm the ballast wire. It had been running OK on my test drive, and driving it home. The only difference was the sparkrite piggyback electronic system, which I have now removed. Alternator - well I had done the voltage across the battery test, and it showed only 12.75 volts. but it looks like a new alternator, so I couldn't convince myself that it was toast? If there is a problem in the wiring, presumably that would fail that test as well?
  13. Some may remember me from my recent GT6 days - well, I sold that cos my wife found it too uncomfortable.....so I bought a spitfire 1500 instead. And yes, wife did test it and said it was OK! Anyway, this car had, until today, a 40 odd year old sparkrite "electronic" ignition system. I've removed that, because it just didn't work properly, to be replaced with an accuspark module. However, this car should have a ballasted ignition system, and does have the appropriate (very old) Lucas DLB102 coil, but I cannot for the life of me find a ballast resistor. I would assume that it should be in close proximity to the coil, or at least in the engine compartment. Am I looking in the wrong place? And while I'm here, the ignition light doesn't go out. I've removed the plug from the back of the alternator, and checked the voltage on the middle terminal, that goes to the battery (with the engine running, even I'm not that dim). I tested the voltage from that terminal to earth, and it registers about 0.5 volts!! Am I doing the wrong test, or does that mean that the almost new alternator is dead. would appreciate any help
  14. Johny, johny, johny.....seriously, don't I squirt enough oil on the road already? Anyway, more news. William Price has posted, on the TSSC facebook thingy, pictures of his rebuilt Quaife differential, with a larger rear cover. Looking at the rear right carrier thing, there appears to be what looks like a grease nipple. Now that is in roughly the position that my now famous copper tube is somehow fixed to. I've attempted to put a comment on his whatsit, asking about it and whether he can shed any light on mine. Not being very familiar with Facebook, its debatable whether it will reach him or not. I must confess that I don't know whether I have a larger rear cover, but I'm pretty sure its not a Quaife diff. Just be patient, we may yet solve this mystery. Such fun.
  15. Well, it's not interfering with anything, so my inclination is to leave it alone. The copper pipe seems quite firmly fixed ..... to something, so in the spirit of if "it ain't broke, don't fix it", I'll leave it till I have to take the diff out in the very distant future.
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