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ed.h

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  • Location
    Nebraska, USA
  • Cars Owned
    74 TR6, 69 GT6, 57 MGA

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  1. ed.h
    Period British stranded wiring was specified by the number of small strands (each 0.3 mm diameter, I believe). Here is how they relate to the US AWG system:
  2. ed.h
    These are GT6 Mk2 quarter lights.
  3. ed.h
    A discussion of drive line geometry. This is for a TR6, but the principles apply. http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-91/TR6-91.html Ed.
  4. ed.h
    Some pics here show what they look like on a GT6 (similar, maybe?) http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-8/GT6-8.html Ed
  5. ed.h
    On mine, it was a buggered spring. Spring from a ball point pen was just about right.
  6. ed.h
    Here's what the parts look like. Ed
  7. ed.h
    If they were mine, I'd first get what grease I could with sprayed solvent, then ultrasonic bath in hot soapy water. Dry with compressed air. If there is rust, don't use acids--they will attack what zinc plating remains. Use a chelate like Evaporust. You can replate the exterior if you are set up for it. Dry again, and lubricate. Ed
  8. ed.h
    The last rev counter cable I bought for my GT6 had little ferrules crimped on both ends of the inner cable so that it could not be withdrawn from either end. It was branded "Autonational" . Ed
  9. ed.h
    You've got maybe 1/2". Ed
  10. ed.h
    That is an aluminum plug that was indeed peened at the factory to seal it. If you remove it, you will see that the hole is threaded 3/4"-16. It's not a pipe thread though, so you can't just use a pipe plug. You can buy new aluminum plugs, but you will probably have to peen them to get a good seal. I Locktited a 3/4-16 adaptor with a hole for a pipe plug. Ed
  11. ed.h
    Not sure if the Vitesse rear suspension is different from the GT6, but here is some info on the GT6 rear spring, including the buttons: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-8/GT6-8.html\ Ed
  12. ed.h
    Yeah, I like it better, too. It's a very close copy of a logo I found online. One thing I found is that aftermarket badges have slightly different font weight than the originals. Ed
  13. ed.h
    If we're talking the ubiquitous Smiths magnetic instrument, wouldn't call it exactly easy, but a fairly handy person can likely take it apart, clean it, and get it back together successfully. Here are a couple of links that cover instruments that should be very close to yours. http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-27/GT6-27.html http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-40/TR6-40.html Ed
  14. ed.h
    Even at the time of that blog post, I wasn't really happy with that logo on the air box. It seemed too loud. I've been trough a couple of more sedate iterations since then. This is where I am now, and even this one may not be the final answer. Beautiful work on the Jag and on the Norton. That Jag engine has to be one of the most beautiful around. I've always lusted after a Commando, and if I had any space left in my garage, I'd be looking for one. My Daytona runs great, but sometimes has trouble at idle, and I think it may be due to too much carb. And the old fuel tickler seems out of date even for a 50 year old bike. I don't really need another project, but I might revive the Mikuni idea. Ed
  15. ed.h
    Pete-- The filter housing is shop built, and the filters are "Ramflo" type. They are foam media that can be used dry or with oil impregnation. There are more pics and some description of the filters and housing here--> http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-98/GT6-98.html (This is for a GT6 by the way, but would apply almost directly to the TR6.) I've got an old 71 Triumph Daytona with dual Amals. I've often considered a carb swap. Ed
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