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ed.h

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Everything posted by ed.h

  1. A discussion of drive line geometry. This is for a TR6, but the principles apply. http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-91/TR6-91.html Ed.
  2. Some pics here show what they look like on a GT6 (similar, maybe?) http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-8/GT6-8.html Ed
  3. On mine, it was a buggered spring. Spring from a ball point pen was just about right.
  4. Here's what the parts look like. Ed
  5. If they were mine, I'd first get what grease I could with sprayed solvent, then ultrasonic bath in hot soapy water. Dry with compressed air. If there is rust, don't use acids--they will attack what zinc plating remains. Use a chelate like Evaporust. You can replate the exterior if you are set up for it. Dry again, and lubricate. Ed
  6. The last rev counter cable I bought for my GT6 had little ferrules crimped on both ends of the inner cable so that it could not be withdrawn from either end. It was branded "Autonational" . Ed
  7. That is an aluminum plug that was indeed peened at the factory to seal it. If you remove it, you will see that the hole is threaded 3/4"-16. It's not a pipe thread though, so you can't just use a pipe plug. You can buy new aluminum plugs, but you will probably have to peen them to get a good seal. I Locktited a 3/4-16 adaptor with a hole for a pipe plug. Ed
  8. Not sure if the Vitesse rear suspension is different from the GT6, but here is some info on the GT6 rear spring, including the buttons: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-8/GT6-8.html\ Ed
  9. Yeah, I like it better, too. It's a very close copy of a logo I found online. One thing I found is that aftermarket badges have slightly different font weight than the originals. Ed
  10. If we're talking the ubiquitous Smiths magnetic instrument, wouldn't call it exactly easy, but a fairly handy person can likely take it apart, clean it, and get it back together successfully. Here are a couple of links that cover instruments that should be very close to yours. http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-27/GT6-27.html http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-40/TR6-40.html Ed
  11. Even at the time of that blog post, I wasn't really happy with that logo on the air box. It seemed too loud. I've been trough a couple of more sedate iterations since then. This is where I am now, and even this one may not be the final answer. Beautiful work on the Jag and on the Norton. That Jag engine has to be one of the most beautiful around. I've always lusted after a Commando, and if I had any space left in my garage, I'd be looking for one. My Daytona runs great, but sometimes has trouble at idle, and I think it may be due to too much carb. And the old fuel tickler seems out of date even for a 50 year old bike. I don't really need another project, but I might revive the Mikuni idea. Ed
  12. Pete-- The filter housing is shop built, and the filters are "Ramflo" type. They are foam media that can be used dry or with oil impregnation. There are more pics and some description of the filters and housing here--> http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-98/GT6-98.html (This is for a GT6 by the way, but would apply almost directly to the TR6.) I've got an old 71 Triumph Daytona with dual Amals. I've often considered a carb swap. Ed
  13. Nice work, Pete. I'd be interested in your impression of any performance difference. I ran across that same page a while back, and it inspired me to do something similar, though mine is a 3D printed piece with an elliptical curve, intended to emulate #11 on that page. I don't have the engine running yet, so I can't say whether it was worth it or not. Ed
  14. Active ingredient in Jenolite Rust Remover is Phosphoric acid. Ed
  15. Not sure if copper grease intends to be conductive, but dielectric grease by definition is not conductive. Ed
  16. There are some pics here of all the parts and how they go together: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-15/GT6-15.html Ed
  17. This is the connection to the gauge on my '74. There is a leather washer inserted before the nut is tightened to the gauge. That nylon tube is not easy to press onto the brass barb. It takes a fixture and a press to do it. Ed
  18. I use an aerosol product that looks, feels, and smells identical to what Ziebart used. It dries sort of waxy, and doesn't go hard (at least not in ten years or so). Ed
  19. The fasteners that just went into the thin front plate eere pan head screws so that they couldn't be over-torqued. That unfortunately didn't keep them from stripping anyway. As DJB said, some have welded nuts in those locations, permitting hex bolts and proper torque to stem leaks. Ed
  20. Hydrogen embrittlement is indeed a real thing. It really only affects hardened or spring steels, and exposure to acids or electrolytic conditions can promote it. That's why it's important to know what's in a product before using it on susceptible metals. Ed
  21. I've read some circumstantial evidence that EvapoRust is based on EDTA or something close to it, but with some trade secret sulfur compound that allegedly extends the capacity of the chelate. Ed
  22. John, there are two broad classes of chemical rust removers. One is indeed based on weak acid, but it can be others beside phosphoric. I've seen oxalic, citric, and gallic, but I do believe that phosphoric is the best. The other class is chemical chelates. These are usually close to neutral pH, and work by stealing and sequestering the iron from the rust. EvapoRust is a chelate, but there are others. A so called "rust encapsulator" may just be a very tenacious coating that isolates the rust from further moisture, but doesn't really do much chemically to it. Marketing hype often makes it hard to know how a particular product works. Ed
  23. By far, the best rust treatment is removal. If that is impossible for some reason, you can try so called "converters" or "encapsulaters". These generally do what their names imply, but the adhesion to the base metal still depends on the rust. Ed
  24. The extended luggage floor shown in the article was factory stock on this Mk2. (GT6+, actually.) Ed
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