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ed.h

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Everything posted by ed.h

  1. By far, the best rust treatment is removal. If that is impossible for some reason, you can try so called "converters" or "encapsulaters". These generally do what their names imply, but the adhesion to the base metal still depends on the rust. Ed
  2. The extended luggage floor shown in the article was factory stock on this Mk2. (GT6+, actually.) Ed
  3. Some ideas and more pics here: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-108/GT6-108.html Ed
  4. See if there is anything useful here: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-106/GT6-106.html Ed
  5. This is "chrome" powder coat. Side by side with real chrome, it would be easy to tell the difference. Ed
  6. Good chrome is fairly impervious to most things except strong acids, so a paint stripper should be OK. Here in the US, we can't easily get proper methylene chloride strippers any more, and have to make do with wimpier citrus-based strippers. Here's an idea--try DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. [As always with any experiment--try in an inconspicuous place first] Ed
  7. I didn't keep any sketches, but you can get pretty close by looking a the originals and the pocket they have to fit in. Ed
  8. Many cars do just fine without a ballast at all. With an appropriate coil of course. Makes for a simpler ignition circuit. Ed
  9. Package designers aren't automotive Engineers. They probably just brought over that boilerplate text from one of their other brake fluid products. Ed
  10. My understanding is that the US military doesn't allow them for many applications. I use locknuts instead wherever i can. Ed
  11. DOT 3 & DOT4 are glycol based. DOT5 is silicone based. DOT 5.1 is glycol based like DOT 3 & 4. It was numbered 5.1 because some of its physical properties are closer to DOT5 than to DOT 3 or 4. Never heard of DOT6. Ed
  12. I've seen at least a couple of more or less scientific tests of various air filters, includIng K&N. One common finding was that K&N filters are among the most free-flowing, but this is at the expense of filtering efficiency. They let more particulates through than other filters. This is a tradeoff I'm personally not willing to make, especially for the small potential gains in fairly extreme situations. I also avoid the disagreeable feeling of being gouged on price. Ed
  13. For DIY spring buttons, the important material properties are friction coefficient and compression strength. It looked like most of my originals failed in compression. After consulting some material spec charts, I chose an acetal plastic (Delrin). It is nearly as slippery as Teflon, but much stronger in compression. Some pics here: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-8/GT6-8.html Ed
  14. Not sure if they are the same, but I refurbed the hinges on my TR6 and GT6: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-62/TR6-62.html http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-40/GT6-40.html Ed
  15. I sandblasted to bare metal, shot a couple of coats of two-part epoxy primer. Then the Schutz. Ed
  16. 3M Schutz is a respected product. Ed
  17. Personal preference, I guess. I like the contrast with the unpainted fins. Ed
  18. My experience with bonnet-rocker cover interference: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-68/GT6-68.html Ed
  19. To confuse things more, the Burr Oak tree is very common in the central part of the US. It is a subspecies of White Oaks, and has nothing to do with burr or burl type grain. Ed
  20. Burr (burl in the US) is a specialty wood product that typically comes from tree crotches, roots, or areas with some kind of damage. It is relatively rare compared to ordinary wood, so it is more expensive than non-burr wood of the same species. In veneers, it can be very fragile, sometimes with voids, that can make it more difficult to work with. Only pretty high-end cars typically came with true burl in the interiors. Ed
  21. Period ads say walnut. At least some window stickers said walnut. Teak is a lot more expensive than walnut. They look like walnut to me, though I suspect they went through some process to suppress the grain a bit to get more unifomity. Ed
  22. Here is some info on Triumph rocker geometry. http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-19/TR6-19.html Ed
  23. I was missing one, so had to make one to match. Ed
  24. The original spring is plastic. It might be 3D printed, but I had the originals, so didn't need to CAD it. Ed
  25. I have CAD files for the outer case (but not the internal spring) for 3D printing. Ed
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