BestyA

So I have the dreaded oil feed modification fitted by a PO, starving the bottom end and flooding the top end. Feed is teed off the oil pressure switch, so that is easy to remove. Question is how do I plug off the top end?

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There are spacers under the frame (yes I know these save the carpet when moving the seat) but these will stay out for now. And I am definitely not cutting any more holes 😁

Thanks for that (I assume you have a standard steering wheel?) So I have somehow lost 3 1/2 inches! I will remove the seats and make sure everything is as low as possible. I might be cutting a hole in the floor at this rate😁

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Thanks for your message - I think that is the late Spit but I have some investigation to do.

If I undo the clamp and pull towards me? (and I agree anything under the dash is a faff🥴)

Hi all hopefully someone can help me out. A bit of background - I replaced the steering column (PO had installed a dolomite column) with original. I also recovered seats Inc New foam. I only have clearance of around 4 1/2 inches - is this right? There is also a finger width of clearance above the column to the dashboard (I can easily get my finger in there). Is this right? Any way I can raise the steering column?

I will give them a call tomorrow and see if they wil👍

Thanks Chris, that is a really comprehensive answer. I think the seal that is fitted is certainly too deep and hard. It also is cut short around the striker plate i.e. not there at all. I think I will look at the DX73 and see what happens.

Looks like I have the wrong seal I assume this is a "P" seal I will get a DX73 and see if that cures it

Thanks, (Pete &Nigel) I will give them a call, (I need door seals as well). If I take the seal off it sits completely flat, so I am hoping the hatch isn't twisted. If I shim, would you shim the same side, on the hatch hinge or the roof hinge, or is it suck it and see?

I have a rear hatch that sits high on the bottom near side corner. I have seen others shimming the hinges? Any idea if this works or do I just have to live with it?

I definitely didn't do this little modification. But there is an idiot working on the car at the moment!

Thought I would give an update on this. After hours and hours of trying to figure this problem out, having bought a new hazard switch and flasher unit, nothing changed. I have then been painstakingly tracking down individual wires.....and last night a breakthrough, buried deep in the harness in the most inaccessible place above the steering column there it was - somehow in the past the RW wire (right turn) had been soldered to the RG wire (left turn). Cutting the RW and joining it back to where it should be has done the trick. So lesson learnt, though I am not quite sure what the lesson is!!

OK thanks for that, new switch ordered from Paddocks, let's see what happens.

I have seen a few threads on the hazard and indicators and I have now joined the tearing my hair out club. I have changed the previous steering column from a Dolomite (as fitted by the PO) to a GT6, which has required some wiring changes – however I am stumped with the hazards / indicators. I have got to the point where the indicators will work! - however, when the hazards are on only the left indicators work. It is like the GW wire (as shown on the diagram) is missing – I have tried "jumping" the GW wire to the hazard flasher with mixed success. The hazards work but both right and left indicators work when indicating right or left or the indicators do work but the hazard light flashes at the same time. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Hi Jim, just tried it and it is the switch that gives it the spring.

That's helpful,I will see whether I can get the 4 to work.

The wiring is scary, I have ripped out and replaced quite a bit of domestic wiring so far (and just found some more!) It's all been replaced along with a new 10 way fusebox, relays for the lights and rear heated windscreen. The original colours are there as there are a number of soldered splices under the dashboard, my guess is that the 5 way combines 4 and 2 on the 6 way connector?

My GT6 has previously had the steering column changed to a Dolomite (by the PO), so the ignition and key position is in the "usual" position at the top of the column. I like the inconvenience of the original GT6 ignition position (and want to revert to as much as original as possible) and have bought off ebay an original steering column with the key position down low (between the knees). The current (Dolomite) ignition has 6 connections on the rear of the switch whereas the second hand one (from ebay) has 4 connections. Looking at the ones supplied by Rimmers there are 5 coonections. The wiring diagram says 6. Questions are: Can I somehow use the 4 connection one I have Will the 5 connector version from Rimmer do the job Do I need a 6 connection version (and where do I get one) Also can I get a connection to the radio with any of these versions - on when key in position 1 (if that makes sense)

That's my line of thought now

Thanks everyone, looks like it is coming out for a bit of investigation.

No free play in the pedal, I will prise out the elbow and see what happens.

I will start it up and see if they lock on again, then see if I can figure out if there is a vacuum there