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    Vitesse convertible 1970 PPP 368H

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  1. Further to my conking out problem. I've looked at possible faults you gents advised. I've had the carbs off, thoroughly cleaned them, needle jets were clean and I've recentered the main jets. Fuel lines are fine. It appears to be an ignition fault. Anyway I've fitted a powerspark ignition kit. She fired up instantly, but, sounded very rough and blew the emission control disc thingy off the manifold. On trying to start her, the engine turns freely then slows to a point where it almost stops then runs freely again. She fires up, but will not run. Ignition timing or something more serious ? ....Neil
  2. Test drove PPP ' Vixen ' again yesterday evening . All good for 3 miles or so then she spluttered and juddered and ran erratically until she conked out. By disconnecting the fuel hose and cranking the engine confirmed fuel to the carbs, but, I've done this many times and this time the pressure seemed excessive. It conked out three times before limping home. Essentially, after checks, it seemed a matter of time before she would restart. I'm thinking examine the carbs, replace hoses, second fuel filter maybe. Are electric pumps recommended ? MK 2 Vitesse. .....Neil
  3. Hi all, I'm a little further with the horn fault. As advised, I connected a jumper lead onto the shaft itself inside the engine bay to the negative terminal on the battery the horn works on pushing the horn button, also by taking a wire from the the clamp next to the clutch pedal then through the bulkhead and onto earth on the steering rack, again the horn works. I can't detect any bridging wire on the uj. The manual says this is soldered on. It seems quite inaccessible. Is there an easier way of bridging the uj ? ......Neil
  4. Hi all...I have a new pencil brush and slip ring from Paddocks. Using an old bearing puller I've managed to take the steering wheel off and prise out the old slip ring. It looks like it needs to be dismantled further in order to connect the purple wire on the new slip ring. I'm not sure how to go about this. It has only one horn, I can see where the second one would have been. Finally, i've read the horn has its own relay switch. I can't see one. .... Neil
  5. Hope this helps. Thank you anyway. I'll report back. ...Neil
  6. Yes I have the pencil.
  7. Looking at the push button contact there is a lump of solder on it. These things are expensive. I'm wondering wether to replace it. ...Neil
  8. First of all is my 1970 Vitesse fitted with two horns ? I can only find one on the passenger side which is working when it's wired up directly to the battery. I'm getting zero when using the horn push. The screws attaching the steering wheel are chewed up as you'll see, so, that would prove difficult to remove. Is there a trial and error sequence of tests you can do to find where the fault is on the horn ? When this horn is fixed she will be road legal, so as you can imagine the hooter problem is very frustrating. ....Neil Russell
  9. I don't understand this. Is this the right lamp for the inner light. As you will notice the bulb has one prong. Should it not have two ? like the sealed unit I've taken out. Anyway it doesn't work and when I put the sealed unit back in, it works. .....Neil
  10. Thanks for your comments gents. The driver's seat's o.k apart from being hard to move backwards and forwards. There were packing washers missing when I removed it and I've learnt on this forum something could be distorted. I've reached the point now where she needs roadtesting. I'll see what the M.O.T. guy sez. ( he's just around the corner ) about the turret. He's a similar age to me ( old ) . Hopefully he will have some empathy. In fact, he has an interesting collection of old cars on his forecourt. ........Neil
  11. 1970 Vitesse CV, Hi all, I'm having a frustrating time re-fitting the seat runners The front bolts are ok. The holes in the turrets have been enlarged. Looks like a previous owner has had problems with the captive nuts. Apart from the holes the turrets are sound. What about drilling through the floor ? ....Neil
  12. Hi, Yes the light comes on when I flick the switch. It's wired into the feed to the solenoid. I get your point about 'switch on' and not ' valve open' . A simple thing , what a catastrophe ! ....Neil
  13. Hi all, We have ' idiot ' light working. Solenoid arm correctly adjusted when energised with holes aligned using 3/8 drill . Oil is topped up with GL4 oil. Car is secured on axle stands ( I know this is not recommended, but, I don't want to risk taking it out at this point ). I've taken it up to 4000 revs in 3rd and 4th gears and repeatedly flicked the switch to no effect. There are no strange noises. I'll check and clean the operating valve. What's best to clean it with ? The car has not been on the road for some 5 years so there must be a strong possibility that something is stuck in the O/D box. It's suggested this may free off in time. Not sure what to do now. One option is to have it inspected to M.O.T. standard . At least then I could take it somewhere to have it looked at if necessary. Thanks for your advice gents. Couldn't have got this far without it. ......Neil
  14. Your right mjit, the driveshafts were resting on the rails. She has to come off the stands and out of the garage. Regarding the idiot light, I know I have to tap in to the sol. wire, but what do I need ? , connectors, wire , bulb and holder ? Getting there.....Neil
  15. Thanks for your help fellas, Yes bulb/buzzer, idea, for me, is a good one. As advised I put in a 10amp fuse. It's a stalk switch on the steering column. I'll let you know how I get on . ....Neil
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