haggis

Hi guys, got a smoking wiper motor on my mk1 Gt6, I’ve tried to do a refurb on it, clean it up basically and stuck some new bushes in it, but no action except for a little bit of smoke. I’ve looked online for a direct replacement either refurb or new but there doesn’t appear to be anything available. Ideally I would like to retain the original shape motor with the same fixings if possible, anyone know what my options are? thanks hag

Hi all, thanks for your responses, some further questions for you. a, - does ‘matching numbers’ affect valuations very much? b, anyone know full range of engine numbers for the 6? c, the short engine I’m looking at has a cam bearing conversion, will this affect the cam I can use? thanks hag

Thanks Pete, for some reason I thought they were in the head, what a numpty I’am. I’ll check cam journals, and thanks for the numbers on the cams. The only downside of making a second donor short engine is the matching numbers, do you think it makes a great deal of difference on values? hag

Thanks guys. I was looking to build up a second short engine for easy swap over, to keep the car off the road for the least length of time. Cam followers is fine as I’ll use my original head and I’ve managed to source some AE+40 pistons (for £60🙃) so looking good, I’m I right in thinking there is a better cam, that’s a straight swap? thanks hag

Hi all, anyone know if there are any variations in the vitesse 1600 engines, throughout the production span? The reason I ask is I’m contemplating buying a pre-machined block to reduce time on my rebuild. I have a late 1600 and was wondering if cranks, flywheels, pistons, cylinder heads etc were compatible with all 1600 engines. thanks hag

Thanks guys, work has suddenly kicked off, so no time to look until the weekend, still tempted by the 123 dizzy though 🤔 been looking into it and they recommend the 1.2ohm red Bosch coil with no ballast and a 12v supply for the 6 cylinders. Doesn’t seem right to me 🤷‍♂️ But my brain doesn’t do electrics. hag

Thanks Pete, Bfg & Daver, I have looked at coil cooling and devised something (photo to come) to prevent it becoming a heat sink for the engine, it’s right behind the alternator which limits the cold air in that area, which no doubt doesn’t help. In regard to mixture, I have just rebuilt the carbs and adjusted mixture using a series of Colortunes and it appears to be spot on, I even tweaked it slightly in favour of richer mixture too but haven’t checked it again since. I‘ve read a few more articles and the original fan is looking like my best option, but I think I’ll put a new coil on it somewhere away from the engine as well. hopefully 🤞, it will be as simple as that. 🤣 thanks hag

Hi all, so I decided to take it to work today, loaded tools in the boot, hoping for it to misfire and stop to check as many things as possible to determine cause ( well it was a nice day and I was not in a rush) it performed well until about 30 mins into the journey, then started to misbehave as expected, now it was hot today 24.5’ I managed to keep it going by keeping the revs below 2000rpm and accelerating softly and it kept going for some time until I got home. This evening in the cool night air I took it out for an extended drive, no problem at all, behaved perfectly, so I’m figuring this is definitely heat related. I’m using a Revotec fan on a Ali rad, with the fan coming on at 92’, I’m going to try it out with fan coming on a lot earlier and see if this makes a difference or I do have the original fan I could fit, just wondering on the general view on fans? Original or electric, what’s best? thanks hag

Thanks Pete, ok that all seems fine, gonna try replacing the magnetronic with points next. I did have some coil/heat problems early on when I fitted the electronic ignition, just wondering if I’ve caused a problem with the unit. thanks again. Hag

The white is connected to the positive of the coil, I haven’t done a polarity test as such as I thought that was for coils not marked with a + or -? Mine has clear markings? thanks hag.

Thanks again Pete, it’s a magnetronic ignition, the one that fits inside the dizzy, so no points. Does that mean ballast not required? thanks hag

Thanks Pete for the swift reply. I’ve double checked my coil with a different meter and it’s 3ohm. The white wire is 12v so assuming that is all correct, because I’ve also assumed if it was shown no 6v it would mean I’ve got a ballast resistor hidden somewhere. So just double checking, my coil should be a non-ballasted 12v, 3ohm coil? Or should it be ballasted? still confused Thanks Hag thanks hag

Hello again, Thanks for all your helpful comments. so I’m now looking into the coil wiring with my electronic ignition. I have a 12v coil which reads 1.5ohms. There are two wires on the positive terminal one red from the dizzy and one white from the ignition. This white wire goes to the main fuse board and then onto the ignition. I can’t find any ballast anywhere but I believe it can be hidden in the system? Should I replace this wire ‘like for like’ ignition to fuse board to coil? If I do a separate feed, what fuse rating should I use? I’m assuming I may have a ballasted ignition wire causing my misfire problems? Or would it not work completely? sorry lots of questions, there’s lots of coil wire posts on here already but they just don’t seem to make sense to my tiny brain. thanks again hag

So thanks everyone for your replies, not sure where to start with reply but here goes, it’s a magnetronic ignition from lumenition, so no power unit on this one. From the club shop, all fits inside the dizzy. the 22D I have has a vacuum advance which is fully working. I sucked it to see. standard Gt6 mk1 rear petrol cap, so assuming has a vent, but will check. running facet pump and malpassi fuel regulator, not seen any bubbles in filters or glass bowl so assuming no fuel air leak. spark plugs are BP5ES NGK, I think, but will need to pull one out to check as they could be BPR’s, in which case, I’m guessing I need to change them? What’s wrong with the R plugs? could be the pesky rubber slivers, tried to be so careful with them, filed pipes and everything. But have changed for ethanol pipes with the carb refurb. The coil was just warm when I broke down the other day, so don’t think it’s overheating, but will swap it out and maybe put the points back on and double check ignition wiring throughout. I’ll let you know what I discover. thanks hag

Hi guys, electronic ignition ( the lumenition one) and there is vacuum advance on 22D, with mech tacho. But I’m happy to convert the tacho if necessary for a 123. It’s a definite ‘pop & bang’ mis-fire, cooled it down and just managed to get home. 😅

Hi guys, Sat on the side of the road! thought I’d solved my misfire, stripped my carbs, rebuilt them, new needles etc, tuned it and it run like never before, smooth and just fantastic, ( I mean the best it’s ever been) have done a couple of decent drives in it and all fine, but now the dreaded mis fire is back. so ticks over lovely, drives for about 30 mins with no issues, then slowly the misfire comes, until you just can’t drive it. So, along with carbs, new coil, fuel line moved to bulk head, Revotec fan, cold air box and feed to carbs, tappets are spot on, Now the only thing I’ve not touched is the dizzy, I’m running a 22D Lucas on a HC vitesse engine in my Gt6 mk1, ( I know it’s sounded like a mongrel) it does have some wear, ie the shaft moves about 5-10’ in both directions, but I wanted to check if. a, if the 22D( tr6) Is ok for this engine, ie advance etc. b, if the wear I mention could cause a misfire c, if I should just get a 123 dizzy for it. again your help and comments are always welcomed and appreciated. thanks hag .

Thanks Pete, it doesn’t quite reach the piston, the other two stick up a couple of mm above it and easily adjusted down to the bridge, but this doesn’t quite get there. I’m guessing as three turns down is only to get a basic setting that’s it’s not that important? And better to keep the washer than not? In the daylight I can see I’ve also got flat spots on the needle too. Fun, fun fun. I’ve ordered from Burlen so hopefully they should be good. hag

Hi folks. Hopefully a simple question for you clever lot. Had a carb running rich, couldn’t seem to adjust it out, so with time on my hands decided to strip it down and see what I can find. The ‘o’ ring jet seal appeared worn and the wrong shape so replaced that ( possible culprit?) But in reassembly I went to screw the orifice adjusting screw to the bridge of the carb but it just didn’t quite make it, not by much but maybe 1/2mm short. But If I take the top washer off it does come above the bridge. So question is can I leave this washer out? even though it’s present on the other two carbs and all the schematic drawings I’ve seen? or is there something else potentially wrong? It’s a mk1 Gt6 carb. thanks hag

Hi Pete, does that mean you could fit 2ltr mk1 Pistons in the 1600 block? thanks hag

But 1200’s are very available, cheap and increase the power so it’s a no brainier if it needs pistons. Thanks for all your help so far. hag

Just checked on rimmers website they Appear to have one set of +20’s for £600.00+vat.

Hi guys, no external oil feed. 28 years ago a ‘bore’ was someone I didn’t want to sit in the pub with. I’m a little wiser now, I do remember the pistons moving around in the bore though. Definitely smokey on start up, and a friend followed me and said she was smokey as I drove. I measured qty of oil when I changed it last year and the dipstick was spot on. I’ll take the head off, just need to place to leave it and work on it, a single garage ain’t quite big enough. Thanks. hag

Hi guys, we’ll it’s been consuming Oil for some time now, around 1/4 of the dipstick every 50/60 miles. I tested it myself and posted the results on here last year and the readings showed minimum between dry & wet. As the head was converted and rebuilt some 28 years ago and I’ve only done about 10k in that time I doubted my results and have got a second opinion. He’s an old school mechanic and looks after a lot of classics for people in my area. You are correct in thinking it might just need new rings and honing, but if it needs a rebore and pistons it could be off the road a hell of a long time trying to find a set. Best case here I have a spare set of pistons for the future. breathers have been cleaned out and checked. I like the idea of the 1200 pistons especially if it improves performance, is it just the case of reboring to the new size? With all other parts the same. I think Pete mentioned this in my post last year. And what CC would it make it, any ideas? thanks hag

Hi Johny, I took it to a garage to do the test, and they said 135 dry, 235 wet, which I have read as being in the bore rather than the head. hag

Hi all, ☹️After 5 years of progressively worsening oil consumption, it was confirmed today that my car needs a bottom end rebuild. There was someone a few months ago who had a set of +40 pistons for sale on the classifieds, anyone got a set out there? thanks Hag